Scrreech!! Bang!! Brakes part 2

willy3486 · Post by **willy3486** » April 19, 2007, 6:24 pm

OK guys you have given me some good advice. I have looked for one of these and no one has one or will help me get one. So I got to looking again at mine and I have come up with an idea. I think it will work fine but I was wondering what everyone thinks. I have one that is 1 inch too short. It is steel and not cast and can be welded easy. The master cylinder is 1 and 1/2 inces deep where the rod goes into. So if I add 1 inch to the rod I have that means at least 1/2 of an inch of the original one will still be inside the cylinder. Does anyone see anything in this that may cause problems. I would like to get one exactly or cut it down but I can't find any. Plus I will not be able to go to a junkyard for at least a couple of months. And I want to start driving it before that.
Thanks in advance

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » April 19, 2007, 8:02 pm

hey I just had a brainstorm... Find an old engine pushrod, find out exactly how long you want it, then cut it off and weld it on, with the smooth end toward the M/C. I would have no reservations about doing this on my own truck.
Clamp the rods into a chunk of aluminum angle stock, to make sure they're straight ot each other. Grind down the weld a couple of times in between hits to make sure it's solid.

I lengthened a drill bit this way a while back. turned out beautiful.

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » April 19, 2007, 8:05 pm

oh yeah, I really don't see aything wrong with your idea either. Just make sure it's welded strong and it should be great.

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » April 19, 2007, 9:11 pm

Sorry I am lost...what are we talking about? If it is the pushrod that goes from the pedal to the MC I have a few differant lengths...how long/short do you need?

Post by **Greg D** » April 19, 2007, 9:32 pm

Willy, the brake pedal pushrod from a 1970ish F100 without power brakes should be about 7/8 of an inch too long. If you haven't converted to a dual master cylinder this one will work well without power or disc brakes. Your local auto parts store (I got mine at AutoZone) should have this MC on the shelf and it should come with the pushrod. The pushrod will bolt right to your stock Slick pedal with the eccentric bolt that is already there. Double check how much you need to cut off by pulling the pedal up, insert the rod with the eccentric in the center position, this will leave you the adjustment the system is supposed to have. I just cut it off with an angle grinder and then used the grider to round the end off. Next best thing to a full disc power conversion, not only adds the safety of a dual MC but does actually improve the braking of the truck. I did the whole thing including new lines in less than 4 hours, cost me less than 80 bucks.

willy3486 · Post by **willy3486** » April 20, 2007, 7:38 pm

Well guys I got home and thought what the heck I will see if I can add some lengh to it. I added a bolt to the end and then cut it off. I welded it all the way around then ground and rewelded. I did this a few times. I then rounded it off to fit and then tried to break the weld. It wouldn't bulge. it also sounded like it was welded good when you tapped it hard. I put it in and it was a perfect fit. It seems like it has better brakes than it ever has when I press it. Tomorrow I will take it for a drive around the Ponderosa so to speak. I got a neighbor that has a tree nursery behind me and I will drive on that road. I just got on the computer and thought I let all of yall know.
Thanks for the advice guys.