Now the clutch

[Brian Taylor]

Yes, when it rains it pours. I was having a bad sound coming from the clutch area. I have figured out it is the throw out bearing, man that sounds bad when you touch the pedal. So it is time for a clutch kit in "RC".
RC is a 66 with a 300 3 speed and it looks like a stock style will cost about 120$.
The question is, what else should I do while I am pulling tranny to install it. I do not want to do anything twice, so I will put in the new clutch assem and pilot and check the flywheel and ??????????

[charliemccraney]

Surface the flywheel, have it balanced, replace the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, replace the pilot bearing. That's what I'd do in addition to replacing the clutch components.

[Blackwaterforge]

Turn your starter ring around if it needs it.

[BarnieTrk]

The last two clutches I changed ('95 Jeep, '94 Ranger) I didn't remove the flywheel. If your flywheel isn't 'blued' or burnt or have any visible cracks, I'd just degrease it, scuff it some with some 80grit and call it good. If the starter ring teeth ARE bad, then it would need to come off. A new starter driver gear would also be warranted. Of course a new throwout bearing which likely will come with the clutch "kit", (check to ensure that it does, if not, you'll need one). You may get new pressure plate bolts in the kit, but likely not. If not, I'd get some new DORMAN replacements. Note that they are not just short bolts, but likely have a short hex head and possibly a shoulder at the top of the shank. Torque them in three steps, in a star pattern, to the required spec. If the kit doesn't include a centering stub, you'll want to get one of those too to allow you to center the clutch disc with the pilot bearing and pressure plate. I'd also give a serious inspection to the clutch linkage. From the pedal pivot, pushrod, both pivots ends of the Z-bar - looking for slop or shot bushings, replacing them as necessary. Grease the joints and re-install with new grease felts on both pivot ends of the Z-bar. I'd also oil the underdash pedal pivot bushing.
While the trans is down, check it over for any leaking seals or gaskets. Change the trans gear lube. Check the U-joints over thoroughly for any slop or dryness; if so, change them accordingly.

What shape is your clutch fork rubber dust boot in?
Do you have a lower inspection plate or is this re-assembly task now the time to locate/install one?

With the trans out, do you want to degrease and paint it?
How about scuffing, priming & painting the driveshaft too?
Now's your chance to put that 'barber shop pole' look on your driveshaft!

BarnieTrk

[64 f100]

You don't need to replace everything unless you just want to. Just be sure there are no stretched bolts before reinstalling the pressure plate bolts. It's easy to overtighten these bolts as these are small. Torque rating is about 35 Foot pounds. Going over that can stretch the bolts. If you don't know how to check these bolts for having been stretched before. Hold the bolt up to a light, if stretched there will be an hour glass area on the threaded area where the bolt is thinner. these bolts have a shoulder. As to surfacing and replacing the clutch disc, if it is hold well I would remove the disc and check for how much weear it has by looking where the rivits are. If there is plenty left, I would just replace the throwout bearing and go with it. To have the flywheel surfaced can cost about 30 to 50$, and if replacing the clutch I would suggest it be done. However, no burn marks or hot spots then I also would consider just scuffing it up and going with it. Same with the clutch pressure plate if not replacing disc. If it ain't broke don't fix it, is a good policy. If, you are having clutch problems, then by all means take it down to where you can inspect everything. If not, I would remove the dust cover and check the plate for thickness of what is left. I have a new disc I can measure and give you this deminsion. Save yourself a lot of expense and trouble for a minor problem. Day before yesterday, I installed the pressure plate on my 390 and broke a bolt. I was lucky enough that I rolled that particlur bolt to the bottom of the flywheel, where I went to drill it outfrom the backside. The threaded part came out once the drill had caught in the center of the bolt threads. Screwed itself right back out, as I drilled from the front or engine side. Got lucky on that one. If, you want a new clutch assembly, then you need to have a new flywheel also. The reason for this is hotspots on the flywheel mean there are hordened spots there. As to cracks you most likely willl not get rid of these as these go deeper than just the surface. To get these out, requires being put on a lathe and the wheel cut down a long way. Surfacing usually doesn't go deep enough to totally remove the cracks. Yes, the clutch will work better without the cracks, but at the cost of loosing your ability to resurface the flywheel. There is a wearpoint on the flywheel at which point you can no longer cut it. Once it's reached that point it can no longer safely be cut, kinda like break drums but different. If it were me, I would only do what needs to be done. If the clutch is chattering ,or slipping or giving other problems perhaps just worn out then replace it. Otherwise just replace the throwout bearing.

Rich

[jglee]

Rich, found out about the pressure plate bolts myself this past weekend. Twisted off two different ones even backing the torque wrench back to 30 ft-lbs. I was not a happy camper having to drill those out.