Steering binds

Comet · Post by **Comet** » July 3, 2007, 10:49 pm

Well, I finally got to drive my truck for the first time in many months. I still have a lot of little bugs to work out and one big one. I can't figure this out. The steering is binding up on me and twice I've almost wrecked it. I am just going around the block and slow, but still.
So, here is what I've done to the truck suspension wise. 4" (or so) dropped factory axle. Tie rod drop kit (Cen Pen), new tie rods, brakes, drums, brake lines (hard and soft) and a replacement factory steering box (junk yard item). I thought maybe it was the tie rod drops binding up, but I don't think so anymore as I took them all apart and they look fine. I greased everything up again too. It seems to bind when turning right (stays right and can't get it to go back without excessive force). I thought it only happened when I was braking, but it did it without braking at least once, although not as bad.
Any ideas, suggestions?
Oh, BTW, it needs alignment. This was the first test drive to see if I can drive it to the alignment shop or not. It seems to track pretty straight with my string job alignment.

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » July 4, 2007, 1:53 am

you should check the steering gear measure your rolling resistance in the sector shaft, youll have to remove steering wheel and pitman arm then will need 1/4 inch drive inch lbs tourque wrench the kind that has a needle or a guage a clicker wont work because its rolling resistance I dont know what factory spec would be but im betting if its over 30 inch lbs when turning the shaft you need a new or rebuild your old gear box
put the steering wheel nut back on shaft with wheel removed and turn with the tourque wrench, both directions. prob feel it without even doing the measuring part (by turning by hand of course) make sure you have vehicle lifted safely on jackstands and with suspension loaded aka jackstands on the axel but not in a position where they will interfere with the tire/wheels movement
hope this helps
shawn

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » July 4, 2007, 6:54 am

I agree with Shawn. If the steering box is good, then the front end geometry must really be bad.

Comet · Post by **Comet** » July 4, 2007, 6:51 pm

Ok, I was talking to a buddy and he thinks I should take it to an alignment shop before doing anything more. And I agree. If one of the wheels is far enough out of camber when I turn it, it will flop over and bind when I try to bring it back. I think this is good advice and since alignment and general steering geometry is already a known problem fixing that first will begin the process of elimination. So I will try that. If nothing else, the shop I take it to can probably tell me if it's something else.
I really think the box is ok. It moves smooth when lifted, and the problem is intermittent. If the box was bad, then I would think it would be constant. We'll see.

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » July 5, 2007, 2:56 pm

Have been scratching my head, never heard of a Ford Factory dropped Axles or I-Beams

Phil · Post by **Phil** » July 5, 2007, 2:58 pm

6166 Junkyard Dog wrote:Have been scratching my head, never heard of a Ford Factory dropped Axles or I-Beams

I think he means a dropped from OEM spec axle

Garbz · Post by **Garbz** » July 5, 2007, 3:16 pm

Did you have your axle dropped by the guy in Utah? Sounds like it has differing caster side to side.

Tom

A factory dropped axle is done by heating and placing a factory axle in a holding jig and using hydraulic pressure to re countour the axle. We can do a 3" drop on a 61 to 64 truck axle on our truck specific jig and 60 ton press. We do two or three drop axles a day here. We hold the king pin angle as stock and press the axle with holding fixtures to keep the axle straight and plumb.

Twin I beams can be dropped but the re-.curve removes the lower spring perch. A switch to coil overs ic necessary.

Garbz

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » July 5, 2007, 3:17 pm

Well he should check the instructions and see if the tie rods need to be put in upside down cause some of early trucks needed to be done that way or they has special tie rod ends for dropped axles on early trucks

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » July 5, 2007, 3:20 pm

David what about tie rod ends? on the 48-56 at one time had special tie rod ends for dropped axles that So-Cal sold for that application

Garbz · Post by **Garbz** » July 5, 2007, 3:25 pm

Comet may have had his steering arms dropped? Dunno unless he says so. Typically on a truck app we will drill the arms make extensions and use heims in stead of tapered tie rod ends.

We have Jigs to do the early ford spindles 2 at a time left and right. but nothing for the later model bolt on steering arms for straight axle trucks.

Garbz

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » July 5, 2007, 3:33 pm

I know many years ago things where done different , with new Tech. and new machines things have changed on how can be done, I know on the Twin-I-Beams not all front end shops can do that cause of bending the beams for front end alignment

Comet · Post by **Comet** » July 5, 2007, 9:47 pm

Garbz, I used the same guy you and Steve use. So you know his work. I found out later Steve works with him or I would have gone through you guys. BTW, he was able to get 3.5" for me. That is why I said 4" or so.

Trust me, it's not the axle. It's in the alignment shop now, so I'll find out more tomorrow.

Garbz · Post by **Garbz** » July 5, 2007, 11:18 pm

Adam did your axle?

Garbz

Comet · Post by **Comet** » July 8, 2007, 12:10 am

Yep.
Ok, I found out the problem. Actually the alignment guys did and fortunately it is very simple. And cheap!
The bottom bolt on the shock tower was hitting the steering arm (I think that's what it's called, the long C-shaped cast piece coming off the spindle and connecting the steering box). When I lowered it, it caused interference. I just removed the bolt and no problems now. I might just re-drill and put the bolt back in, or leave just 3 on there. I was a little worried it might hit the frame, but it seems to be ok. I drove the snot out of it the yesterday and it didn't bind once. So, that is a relief!
The other cool thing is I got a free set of shocks from a buddy. I wasn't sure they would fit, but they seem to be fine. They are just Monroe's, but will do for now. I need to save some $