Bright lights, and dark roads...

[azjake]

OK...here is the problem. When driving Old Yellar at night, the bright lights will go off after being on for about one minute. Then, sometimes they come back on, but mostly they do not. If I hit the dimmer switch when the high beams go off, the low beam headlights will come on and stay on. The low beams have never shut off.

One of the previous owners installed Halogen headlights in the truck. Did they omit something else that should have been installed at the same time?

Jake

[ICEMAN6166]

no this is the fault of the circuit breaker in the switch and old thin wire, eventually the low beam will start doing it as well.

here is the permanent solution

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/ ... ights.html

once again i appeal to the higher powers to return this to our site so as i do not have to link to....

[Country]

Had the same problem, changed out dimmer and need to change out light switch. Did alot of digging around on this and Iceman has the solution for this plus you can buy an aftermarket plug and play relay setup from i think LMC fairly cheap.

[65f100_Thug]

Glad i read this post. I have the same problem. Thanks!!!

[Harper]

i had the same problem on my 65 mustang a few years back and replaced the dimmer switch and it fixed it.

[foodstick]

I put that LMC relay setup on Bread Puddin, and BBdrivers truck.. after seeing the improvement Kid is BEGGING for his to be next....

30 dollar setup, but I had to add in some plugs so you can still pull the grill by undoing the wires..

[ICEMAN6166]

mine is made in USA.
probably cost me a bit more, i dont remember but it was a good winter project.
i added the extra switch so if i can have low and high beam at the same time.
it also unplugs at the headlights so the grille can be removed.

[jefflovesf250s]

All: Is there a recommended model & part number for the "bosch-style" relay described in Steve Delanty write-up "Whiter Whites, Brighter Brights"?
Thx. Jeff

[Harper]

ok i have a question: so why is it important to be able to unplug the lights to remove the grille. I have seen this posted a few times but I guess I just dont get it? do some models differ than others in this reguard?

[ICEMAN6166]

not sure if theres an actual part # for the relays but i bought them and the pigtails and all i did they are pretty common.was ask for bosch relays.

the idea of plug in at the grille is especially important for the 61 trucks as the wires go thru a small hole with a grommet into the headlight buckets, the later years have open buckets and the headlight plug can be removed thru the back.

[wheels]

I am having trouble with my 93 and can not get this information to copy. Can someone mail it to me maybe I can get it that way.

[Uncle Skip]

Build your own harness for the lights.
The relays are all standard as far as wiring, but you need to ask for a 40 amp unit. I got mine at the junk yard with plugs but I looked on them for the 40 amp designation. It takes two and they cost me $5 bucks American for both of them.
Each terminal post is numbered.
30 - always hot, power in from battery to energize the relay coil
85 - power in from your switch to energize the coil, like your dimmer switch. One to bright relay, one to dim relay.
86 - ground
87 - when the relay is activated, this sends power to what ever component you are using, like a horn, head light, fuel pump, etc.
87-A - this terminal is always hot when the solenoid is in the off position and goes off when 87 is energized. I didn't use this terminal.

[64LL]

I would just add that if you are in a pinch and don't want to mess with the wiring yet that switching back to a standard bulb from halogens is likely to get your brights working again. At least it did for me....brights never worked when I bought the truck, took out the halogens and all was good (at least for now).

[Dave Rogers]

Sure wish this site was here 15 years ago. Mine all went out in the highway. Dimmer switch was the problem.

[Lowell]

I just added driving light relays for both bright and dim and run a #10 wire to the hot side of the starter solenoid with a 40 amp circuit breaker . cost about 8 bucks. I mounted the relays on the driver side inner fender and tapped into the headlight wires.

[Toyz]

Keep in mind that while the relays keep the load off the circuit breaker dash wiring and light switch, it DOES increase the voltage to the lamps. This can overload and thus overheat the wiring terminals at the headlamps, causing them to approach meltdown. Replacing these 50 year old terminals is well worth the effort and expense to avoid this situation. I am not familar with the various "kits" available; some may include these terminals. A slight decline in bulb life may also result, a worthy trade-off to be able to see better and reduce switch failure, IMO
If halogens of the same wattage are used, there should be very little to no increase in load as compared to new non-halogens; if there is an increase, then something's creating resistance other than the headlamps themselves, and needs to be diagnosed and repaired. Also, be certain your relays match or exceed the total amperage of all components to be energized; utilizing circuit breakers on the load circuits will assure protection in case of overload, the relays alone may not provide protection at their rated load, and the light switch circuit breaker will not sense or react to most overloads, since it is now supplying only control load.
Quite often, the dimmer switch IS the culprit; in those instances replacing only the light switch is just buying time! Any connection point can be a source of resistance, even those which appear clean and solid. Eliminating some of these higher-amperage connections with the relays is what increases both output and dependability.

Paul

[ICEMAN6166]

Keep in mind that while the relays keep the load off the circuit breaker dash wiring and light switch, it DOES increase the voltage to the lamps. This can overload and thus overheat the wiring terminals at the headlamps, causing them to approach meltdown. Replacing these 50 year old terminals is well worth the effort and expense to avoid this situation. I am not familar with the various "kits" available; some may include these terminals. A slight decline in bulb life may also result, a worthy trade-off to be able to see better and reduce switch failure, IMO
If halogens of the same wattage are used, there should be very little to no increase in load as compared to new non-halogens; if there is an increase, then something's creating resistance other than the headlamps themselves, and needs to be diagnosed and repaired. Also, be certain your relays match or exceed the total amperage of all components to be energized; utilizing circuit breakers on the load circuits will assure protection in case of overload, the relays alone may not provide protection at their rated load, and the light switch circuit breaker will not sense or react to most overloads, since it is now supplying only control load.
Quite often, the dimmer switch IS the culprit; in those instances replacing only the light switch is just buying time! Any connection point can be a source of resistance, even those which appear clean and solid. Eliminating some of these higher-amperage connections with the relays is what increases both output and dependability.

Paul

agree
it is in my opinion false security to not replace the wiring with 14ga to the headlights. the original 18ga is old and if even a few strands are broken/corroded by using higher wattage bulbs or halogen you run a risk of wires possibly overheating/ melting or at best having not much better of a system than original due to insufficient wire.

the dimmer switch while on the floor and very suceptible to water and dirt does nothing more than switch the current from one side (low) to the other (high)
and in an emergency situation can be bypassed by simply using a jumper wire between the incoming 12v to one of the output sides of the plug.
if of course the switch guts are old and corroded it can and will affect the amount of current passing thru to either side.
if the plug does not tightly cover the prongs of the switch the prongs will corrode and possibly break off from simple foot action.
the dimmer switch should be checked regularly as a maintenance item and kept clean and or replaced as necessary.

i have had the same harness i made following the whiter whites/brighter brights plan a dozen years replaced only 1 headlight.

lastly and this can never be stressed enough when it comes to 12v "its all about the the ground "