engine questions 302 into 1963 ford stepside

[donald luster]

Hey gang please give me some advice. I went to wrecking yard today and found a good 302 ford but it has a automatic. It was a 73 model. The price was 600 dollars. I think I want a 4 or 5 speed tran. I found a 302 with a 4 speed with 4wheel transfer case. It was cheaper. What is wrong with 5 speed overdrive. The wrecking yard owner keep telling me the 5 speeds were trouble an d he likes the 4 speed better because they have a better split between gears. What kind of bell housing would I need to use the 302 that is automatic?
Is the 302 external balanced? What is a good 302 and tranmission year to use. Will there be problems hooking of my clutch linkage that goes on my 223 six engine? Any and all coments good and bad are welcomed. Would it be better to buy a bad body truck with a good engine and trans then sell the left over parts? Thanks Don

[randyr]

Hey Don, sounds to me like the wrecking yard guy was trying to convince you to buy what he has in stock. There are lots of different ways to go with a 302 but the mid-70's ones were choked down to around 150hp. I'm sure some 302 experts will jump in here but I would suggest looking at the mid 80's to early 90's Mustang GT's with the 5.0 & T5 five speed trans. If you don't want to use the EFI you could always convert to a carb. Various members have adapted the T5 trans to the sixes & 292's so I'm sure you can find several threads about how they dealt with the clutch, etc.
I'm in the process of putting a '92 Mustang 5.0/AOD in my '66 F100 shortbed but I'm also using the EFI.
Hope that helps a little till someone else comes along...
Randy

[Greg D]

Don,
you should be able to get a roller cam 5.0 for that money.
They are found in 5.0 Mustangs and 5.0 Explorers (Explorer engine has better heads though).
The roller 5.0 has about 75 more horsepower and more importantly - more torque.
You will likely realize better MPG also with the roller engine - it won't work as hard to move the truck - more torque.
It also is a generally more efficient engine than the early 302s.
Easy conversion to a carb & V belts if you prefer.
Look at my build thread - I basically refreshed a 93 5.0 and converted it to 85 specs.
You will need to add the eccentric to the cam for the fuel pump, and use a carbed engine timing cover so it has a fuel pump provision, you will also need the earlier water pump if you use the V belts - the serpentine belt system used a reverse rotation pump.
Depending on the year of 4 speed it will be an overdrive but the ratio spacing will pretty much suck on those - your yard guy is full of BS.
Easiest solution is an M5OD - found in late 80s thru 96 F series, it was installed behind 4.9s, 5.0s, and 5.8s.
Hydraulic clutch, and the shifter comes out of the floor in the right spot for our trucks.
I often consider selling my T-5 and using one of these trannys for the shifter location.
Make sure you replace the shifter seals on them though.
Local pull ur own here sells them for $75 - $100.
With the clutch - hydraulic is the way to go for this conversion - just way easier.
The M5OD uses a hydraulic release bearing/slave cylinder combination.
I converted my T-5 to hydraulic.
I used a stock Slick brake master for my clutch MC (pics in my thread).
A T-5 uses a cable with a ratchet adjustment in stock form - PITA to engineer into one of these trucks (yea I almost did).


See what you can find and get back to me - I'll walk you through it.
BTW, I removed your duplicate posts on this.

[Uncle Skip]

Don.
BroncoTom (you remember BroncoTom right) is doing the M-5 5-speed in his truck right now. Get in touch with him. It looks dead easy, even with the hydraulic clutch.
U@ss

[Toyz]

Don, yes , the 302's are externally balanced. the early ones had 28 ounce flywheel counterweights, the ~ 80 and later had 50 ounce flywheel counterweights.
The early slicks will require some fabrication regardless of your choice of engine and transmission.
I'm kind of interested in knowing what yard operator gave you his somewhat biased information; and also agree with Gregg that his asking price would reasonably buy you the much better suited 5.0. The changeovers Gregg mentioned can be worked around with the use of an electric fuel pump,and retention/ modification of the serpentine system.
The M-5 would be my choice also, the T-5 can be modified for better shifter position with an S-10 tailshaft, but the M-5OD is an easier conversion IMO.
Paul

[bmcgc]

The roller 5.0 or 5.8 is the best bang for the buck IMO. I like them, the 5.8 if you can find one, those usually are well used by the time they hit a salvage yard.

Pros:

Affordable
shorty headers
serpentine belts if you want them
100a alternator
electronic ignition
lots of aftermarket support
they were put in millions of vehicles
ease of installation
brackets for a/c and ps are on most of them
performance parts are 1/2 the cost of FE performance parts (alum heads/intakes/waterpumps/cams)

[donald luster]

Thanks for all the information and taking time out of your busy schedule to post it. I sill would like some information about the hyd clutches if any of you have time to post it. It might be better if i go to an automatic instead of the std. But I do prefur the std. After thinking about it last night I might go to a 300 six with mult carbs and 5 speed overdrive. Sorry I just cannot make up my mind. Any comments about the 300-6. I want to do it right because at my age it will probley be the last one.

[bmcgc]

Tell us how you intend to use the truck.

I would stay away from multi carbs on a daily driver. They are more maintenence and suck a lot of fuel, especially on a 300/6.

If you want this to be a go fast truck, I would not go with the 5-speed. Some have gone with a T-5 out of a Mustang and thats ok if all you are going to do is cruise around in a nice looking old truck, not so good if you are going to use it as a truck.

[bobenhotep]

I have put a 300/6 and a 3 spd in a 63 wrongbed. If you have questions please ask.