Rustoleum Roller Paint Job

DV65CustomCab · Post by **DV65CustomCab** » July 19, 2007, 2:39 pm

The paint is compatible with other enamels, so it need not be stripped should you repaint in the future.

For the dash I would use spray cans. That is one of the benefits of the Rustoleum/Tremclad version is that you can get most colors in aerosol. I think trying to roll/brush the dash and other interior parts would be way too messy with these thinned paints.

FWIW, I used a roller and foam brushes to paint the interior and roll cage of my race car, straight from the can. It does not give a glass smooth finish this way but still turned out pretty darn nice.

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » July 19, 2007, 3:31 pm

I used non-thinned rustoleum, straight out of the can to paint my cab floor. I used their primer first, then high gloss black. I was more worried about getting a good coat on all the bare metal & rust spots than smoothness of the paint. But it flowed pretty well. I used the foam rollers. did get some runs, but its now under the floor mat anyway. It was a very humid day, so it took over a full day to dry to the touch.

I've thought about doing the whole truck, $50 paint job style, but like others have said not sure if I have the patience to do it well.

six-two · Post by **six-two** » July 20, 2007, 12:34 am

For rust is it ok to just remove it and paint over it? Or should I use some kind of rust nuetralizer first? I heard that some kind of acid is good to use on the bare metal before you paint to prevent flash rust but I forgot what kind to use. I'm working on my bed now (the first part) and it is pretty funky, it seems impossible to get rid of the rust pits without going too deep in some spots.Por-15(is that what it's called?) is great but out of my price range. Also, at what stage of painting should I use body filler, after the primer?

________________________________six-two

DV65CustomCab · Post by **DV65CustomCab** » July 20, 2007, 6:19 am

Body filler gets applied to bare metal. It will not want to adhere to painted surfaces, so be sure to grind enough away for the perimeter.
If you go to a auto body supply place you can buy a product called Metal Prep (various brand names) to use before applying anything. Cleans the metal of all the grease and dirt. Usually comes in a big container but it's not expensive and I find all sorts of uses for it.
You should eradicate any trace of rust or it will come back. The old school method of treatment was to use a product called naval jelly, but I've never done that. POR-15 or Eastwood's Rust Inhibitor are the only two products I know of that are meant to paint over rust as a barrier. I've used the Eastwood product, and a small can goes a very long way. Not cheap though.

The Big M · Post by **The Big M** » July 20, 2007, 9:25 am

Slick Fan, how about stripping off the vinyl, painting the roof, then re-installing the trim? You could even paint the roof a contrasting colour.

Now that I think about it, I have seen some imports on the interweb painted with this method, and it seemed to work on the flexible bumpers. So there may not be a need for any sort of flex agent.

Thanks for posting that excerpt JC. I have also heard that the flat black tractor paints are difficult to paint over. I'll have to look into this more thoroughly...

six-two · Post by **six-two** » July 24, 2007, 10:19 pm

DV65Customcab, thanks, metal prep is the exact product I was thinking of. The other tips help out too. Everyone else, thank you too for your contributions.

_________________________________six-two

DV65CustomCab · Post by **DV65CustomCab** » July 25, 2007, 5:54 am

BTW, it is looking pretty likely we will try the boat paint on our two race cars in the next few months, so if you've been considering the roller method, stay tuned.