Pulling my hair out.

[mtb2liv]

OK - I am in the process of getting my '66 F100 w/ a 240 on the road.

New exhaust manifold (was craked and broken into 3 parts)
New Fuel Pump w/ Filter
New Alt.
New plugs, cap, rotor, wires, etc
New Volt. Reg. (instr. panel, too)
New Oil press and temp., water temp senders

Got it running...well I thought, too. Actually drove it about 50 miles so far.

Except that it seems to stumble and stall after driving a few miles down the road.

Open the hood, carb (1BBL Ford w/ Man. choke) is leaking gas like that's it's job from the top of the bowl, the bottom throttle shaft and essentially any place gas can flow.

Removed carb, opened it up and cleaned it and looked to be sure the float wasn't sticking open as I assume the PO had not driven this old truck too much...at all.

Reinstalled carb.; same prob.

Considered new fuel pmup being too strong ie: pushing too much pressure and the gas is blowing by seal, o-rings, etc.

Reinstalled old fuel pump (with new filter) and probelm got MUCH better but still no good.

Bought "NEW" reman. carb from Summit (UREMCO) - bolted it on, reinstalled new fuel pump (again), started it and it was running perfectly!

Took it down the road 2 miles; good ole' leaky carb flooding everything gremlin reappeared. Limped it home and here we sit.

Going back to old fuel pump yet again...unless you see something I am missing?

Another fuel pump, maybe? Electric one or a pressure regulator?

I eventually want to do some cool things with my truck but for now....all I want to do is drive it.

Any help or suggestions would be very appreciated...

[foodstick]

My Dads ole 66 seemed to always need a pressure valve.. I thought I will rebuild it right and remove the pressure valve.. after a few weeks it started the same old BS, I swapped the identical carb from another truck, but I bet the pressure valve regulator would probably make it work AGAIN..

[mtb2liv]

Any suggestions on what pressure valve to get or PSI I need to get it down to?

(Thanks for the reply, BTW)

[Toyz]

4-6 psi. Also might check that the vent on the diaphragm housing of the pump is not blocked.
Paul

[mtb2liv]

I went to NAPA just now, got a new fuel pump - guy at thecounter showed me the specs whereby it calls out 4-6psi....SOLD. I installed it and got it running again.

3 miles down the road (I have a loop I test drive) and it was back to gushing gas again out of the throttle shaft and on the top of the carb itself (tough to really define where, though).

Once the gurgling and bubbling npises stop, the gas eventually stops dripping out, I hold my foot to the floor and it starts after several turns.

Runs / idles perfectly and no leaking.....this is the usual scenario - so now if I go and drive my little loop, it does it's leaking thing - stumbles while coasting and stalls at idle. Let it sit for a few minutes, hold my foot to the floor and get it started and limp it home. Get it home and it's fine.

New carb, new fuel pump & filter; good gas...


So......now what?

Feeling pretty frustrated as I am sure you can imagine.

[Toyz]

With the new carb, I would think duplicate problems with the float would be unlikely, although a close inspection might be warranted. That puts us back to verifying that the pump pressure is actually in range. It is also possible that the accelerator pump has been damaged by the original cause of the flooding. If the carb has a vent valve, check to see that it is operating.
Is the throttle shaft leakage external, or in the butterfly area?
Paul

[mtb2liv]

External; it drips off the shaft on both sides of the carb at a pretty healthy rate of flow, as well as from any possible port of exit as it builds upon top of the carb over the bowl area.

This is what the old carb did, too; as well as yet ANOTHER carb I got from a guy on Craig's List.

The current tally is:
3 Fuel pumps (original and 2 new ones)
3 carbs (original and 2 new ones)

Mixed and matched/paired them all to see and got consistent results; flooding.

All 3/6 parts exhibit the same symptoms of flooding so I think it's safe to rule out the carbs or the pumps...no?

My next consideration is excessive heat - I put in a new 160 degree thermostat a while back when replacing the exhaust manifold and some sending units here and there.

Engine seems to run nice and cool; gauge says ~140/160 degrees.

Fuel and vac lines do not feel hot to the touch and I have the thicker insulator type gasket under the carb as well as the rubber type.

I'll try to move them away from the area between the valve cover and upper rad hose (this is where they run currently) to see if that helps -

Grasping at straws here....

[unibody madness]

Check your road draft tube if you have one, if not check the entire pcv set up. Mine got plugged and caused that very thing to happen on my 223 .
I can only guess that the plugged line causes excess vacumn which sucks the gas past the float needle valve.
Hopes this helps.

[mtb2liv]

Ok so some info I left off the initial thread...which...now....after reading @unibody madness's input - has me feeling (possibly; I'll make some changes and test in the AM) like a bit of a fool.

OK - so I removed the stock air cleaner assembly; was full of oil, horse hair and less then easy to breath through.

I opted for the super cheap and effective air cleaner found at any local auto parts store for less than $20; chrome, paper element bolt-on...you get what I'm saying -

In this process I also removed the PCV tube from the intake to the valve cover and plugged it. When doing so the idle went from rough as hell to smooth as silk....so I left it thinking that was a good thing.

After reading several old posts here, and now reading @unibody madness's post; I realize I may be the cause of my own problems and have created a vacuum that is too strong and is pulling gas into the manifold via the carb.

I'll put a PCV valve back on the intake manifold to the valve cover (I'll use a new valve and grommet) and test via my 3 mile loop and report back my findings....

Wish me luck (please).

[mercuryv8]

Good luck

Nic

[Blackwaterforge]

Is the flapper between the intake and exhaust functioning properly?
If it is stuck closed your manifold will get hot and boil gas out of the carburetor.
If the spring is installed backwards it will do the same thing.

[mtb2liv]

** EUREKA!! **

Ok so after reading through several old posts as well as @unibody madness suggestions above, I found that when I removed and plugged the PCV from the intake and put on a breather for the valve cover, I created a vacuum pressure excess and that was pulling gas into the carb.

Damn basic, fundamental stuff gets you every time.

I removed the PCV thinking it was harmless to run a vent breather and simply plug the vac. out of the intake as it ran MUCH smoother when I did so (with old, needing to be rebuilt carb.).

Obviously, a new carb and proper PCV set up is what was called for because all is well now and I drove it this morning for close to 30 miles with several stops/idle, freeway speeds as well as coasting (which is when the leaking problem was at it's worst) and shutting down and restarting during running errands. no drama at all and in fact ran very well.

So many thank you's to all the board members who chimed in and offered help via PM; I am very happy to have found Slick60's and this community; invaluable resource.

THANK YOU

[unibody madness]

Glad to help. You get a lot of great feedback on this site that usually gives a direction to shoot at

[bobenhotep]

This is the best truck site board thingee period. The freely shared knowledge here makes owning a slick almost affordable.

Dan

[mercuryv8]

Nice... I like happy endings.

Nic

[bobenhotep]

And if you ever want to get rid of the load-o-matic and upgrade the ignition, that info is here too.

[mtb2liv]

That's the next upgrade...ignition; then power steering/disc brakes.

Anyone got a line on a good/cheap CV clip?

[Toyz]

If you live near an LKQ (Pick a Part) , they often have them. This weekend is their 1/2 price holiday sale, so if you don't mind pulling your own, you might get a good deal. Several years ago, I stumbled upon a low mileage wrecked police interceptor and paid $150.00 plus core for a VERY complete assembly The core charge is of course designed as a "gotcha" , but IME, they will accept almost anything faintly resembling the purchased item.
Paul

[mtb2liv]

I do indeed live close to LKQ's and U-Pull, Pick&Pull and a few other salvage yards...my search begins very soon.

That's a big job and will more than likely send out a request to local Slick experts for help with fitting, welding, etc as I do not weld (yet) and have never done anything like that; excited to get it going, though...

Thanks for the tip!