Need help with clutch/brake pedal assembly for 65' F100

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RedStarr1000
Posts: 14
Joined: April 14, 2007, 6:34 pm
Location: Long Beach, CA

Need help with clutch/brake pedal assembly for 65' F100

Post by RedStarr1000 »

I'm trying to replaced the worn out clutch/brake pedal shaft bushings. But I can't figure out how to remove the large clutch pedal spring. I need to save it along with insulator bushing that is at the end of it. (Nobody make those parts anymore). Any tips or ideas guys?
Garbz

Post by Garbz »

Easiest way to unload the spring is to remove the entire assembly and unlaod the spring with a prybar... In the truck can be kind of scary..

I have bushings out of a 79 on my 64 shaft in Christine when i rebuilt the assembly building the truck. I ground a little off the main shaft to fitment. The clutch insulator was used on most ford trucks. a similar type was on my old 86 F150

Garbz
joeymac64
Posts: 42
Joined: September 22, 2006, 10:19 am
Location: TORONTO ONTARIO CANADA

Post by joeymac64 »

i use wooden clothes pin or wooden wedges to place in between each coil wind to remove or install hood or clutch springs if already installed on vehicle use channel lock plyers to wedge clothes pins inbetween coils alternating from side to side to install a spring you can bend the spring side to side held in a vice placing clothes pins or wooden wedges between the coils far less dangerous than stretching with prybars
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DanSanDiego2000
Posts: 275
Joined: August 14, 2006, 8:59 pm
Location: San Diego

Post by DanSanDiego2000 »

You will be amazed at how EASY it is, and how well engineered, too.

The arm on the clutch pedal PIVOTS. That's right, look at the end of the arm where the spring hooks. It is bolted on, and if you remove the correct bolt, the arm swings down, allowing the relaxed spring to hook over the end. Then, with the spring hooked into the pedal and arm assembly, you can pivot the arm back into place, reinstall the bolt, and you are good to go. A couple mechanics were fighting my 65 F100 pedal years ago, almost killing themselves in the process. I crawled in under the dash (as they looked for a cutting torch or crowbar for leverage), and before they returned to destroy my truck, I had eyeballed the solution. FORD was right on the money with this design. Great engineering.

Good luck.

Dan
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DanSanDiego2000
Posts: 275
Joined: August 14, 2006, 8:59 pm
Location: San Diego

Clutch Pedal

Post by DanSanDiego2000 »

RedStarr1000,
Did you get your answer? I have a pedal assembly here in my shop, and I just took another look at it (rather than trying to crawl under my dash). The pedal has a limiter on it that keeps the pedal from returning to high (toward your foot). The limiter comes up, toward you, and hits a rubber cushion, keeping the pedal from clanging metal on metal when you take your foot off of the clutch. If you remove the rubber stop, the spring shortens, and spring tension is reduced. The limiter is bolted onto the side of the clutch pedal, and when you unbolt it, the pedal travels up toward you 6 inches or more above normal. You would have to bring your knee up to your nose to put your foot on the clutch pedal if it weren't for the limiter. Once the limiter is out, and the pedal raised high, the spring tension is next to nothing (or maybe the spring drops out). Either way..... piece of cake!!
I know it's been a week or more since your question... I hope you are not stranded. I hope this helps for this time, or next.
Good luck.
Dan
cdherman
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Joined: July 17, 2006, 6:36 pm
Location: Parkville MO (KC)

Post by cdherman »

One thing I am trying to do more often is finish a thread that I have started. You know, post back after all is well and identify the information that was correct and potentially incorrect.

By doing so, we make the search engine much more powerful to new users and experienced folks alike.

I think that's what Dan is fishing for.......
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'

1683

Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!
az63pu
Posts: 25
Joined: August 19, 2007, 10:41 am
Location: Chandler Arizona

Post by az63pu »

....good info Dan, when i bought my 63 the guy had that rubber stopper turned around, and with your info should get that pedal down a little more....

mark
RedStarr1000
Posts: 14
Joined: April 14, 2007, 6:34 pm
Location: Long Beach, CA

Post by RedStarr1000 »

I ended up finding a 65' F250 at a junk yard in near my home an practiced removing the brake/clutch pedal assembly before doing it on my own truck. I found it easier to just remove the whole steering column and then remove the pedal assembly. Then I disassembled it on the work bench. I just finished sandblasting the parts an priming them. I'm going to paint them a semi-flat black. It should look good after it's all completed. Thanks for the tips guys.
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Alan Mclennan
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Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW
Australia

Post by Alan Mclennan »

:D Goodonya Red, Don`t forget some pic`s.
Alan
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"

Slick Stock 3 KCMO
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Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8.............................. cry.gif
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