Need help with clutch/brake pedal assembly for 65' F100
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- Posts: 14
- Joined: April 14, 2007, 6:34 pm
- Location: Long Beach, CA
Need help with clutch/brake pedal assembly for 65' F100
I'm trying to replaced the worn out clutch/brake pedal shaft bushings. But I can't figure out how to remove the large clutch pedal spring. I need to save it along with insulator bushing that is at the end of it. (Nobody make those parts anymore). Any tips or ideas guys?
Easiest way to unload the spring is to remove the entire assembly and unlaod the spring with a prybar... In the truck can be kind of scary..
I have bushings out of a 79 on my 64 shaft in Christine when i rebuilt the assembly building the truck. I ground a little off the main shaft to fitment. The clutch insulator was used on most ford trucks. a similar type was on my old 86 F150
Garbz
I have bushings out of a 79 on my 64 shaft in Christine when i rebuilt the assembly building the truck. I ground a little off the main shaft to fitment. The clutch insulator was used on most ford trucks. a similar type was on my old 86 F150
Garbz
i use wooden clothes pin or wooden wedges to place in between each coil wind to remove or install hood or clutch springs if already installed on vehicle use channel lock plyers to wedge clothes pins inbetween coils alternating from side to side to install a spring you can bend the spring side to side held in a vice placing clothes pins or wooden wedges between the coils far less dangerous than stretching with prybars
- DanSanDiego2000
- Posts: 275
- Joined: August 14, 2006, 8:59 pm
- Location: San Diego
You will be amazed at how EASY it is, and how well engineered, too.
The arm on the clutch pedal PIVOTS. That's right, look at the end of the arm where the spring hooks. It is bolted on, and if you remove the correct bolt, the arm swings down, allowing the relaxed spring to hook over the end. Then, with the spring hooked into the pedal and arm assembly, you can pivot the arm back into place, reinstall the bolt, and you are good to go. A couple mechanics were fighting my 65 F100 pedal years ago, almost killing themselves in the process. I crawled in under the dash (as they looked for a cutting torch or crowbar for leverage), and before they returned to destroy my truck, I had eyeballed the solution. FORD was right on the money with this design. Great engineering.
Good luck.
Dan
The arm on the clutch pedal PIVOTS. That's right, look at the end of the arm where the spring hooks. It is bolted on, and if you remove the correct bolt, the arm swings down, allowing the relaxed spring to hook over the end. Then, with the spring hooked into the pedal and arm assembly, you can pivot the arm back into place, reinstall the bolt, and you are good to go. A couple mechanics were fighting my 65 F100 pedal years ago, almost killing themselves in the process. I crawled in under the dash (as they looked for a cutting torch or crowbar for leverage), and before they returned to destroy my truck, I had eyeballed the solution. FORD was right on the money with this design. Great engineering.
Good luck.
Dan
- DanSanDiego2000
- Posts: 275
- Joined: August 14, 2006, 8:59 pm
- Location: San Diego
Clutch Pedal
RedStarr1000,
Did you get your answer? I have a pedal assembly here in my shop, and I just took another look at it (rather than trying to crawl under my dash). The pedal has a limiter on it that keeps the pedal from returning to high (toward your foot). The limiter comes up, toward you, and hits a rubber cushion, keeping the pedal from clanging metal on metal when you take your foot off of the clutch. If you remove the rubber stop, the spring shortens, and spring tension is reduced. The limiter is bolted onto the side of the clutch pedal, and when you unbolt it, the pedal travels up toward you 6 inches or more above normal. You would have to bring your knee up to your nose to put your foot on the clutch pedal if it weren't for the limiter. Once the limiter is out, and the pedal raised high, the spring tension is next to nothing (or maybe the spring drops out). Either way..... piece of cake!!
I know it's been a week or more since your question... I hope you are not stranded. I hope this helps for this time, or next.
Good luck.
Dan
Did you get your answer? I have a pedal assembly here in my shop, and I just took another look at it (rather than trying to crawl under my dash). The pedal has a limiter on it that keeps the pedal from returning to high (toward your foot). The limiter comes up, toward you, and hits a rubber cushion, keeping the pedal from clanging metal on metal when you take your foot off of the clutch. If you remove the rubber stop, the spring shortens, and spring tension is reduced. The limiter is bolted onto the side of the clutch pedal, and when you unbolt it, the pedal travels up toward you 6 inches or more above normal. You would have to bring your knee up to your nose to put your foot on the clutch pedal if it weren't for the limiter. Once the limiter is out, and the pedal raised high, the spring tension is next to nothing (or maybe the spring drops out). Either way..... piece of cake!!
I know it's been a week or more since your question... I hope you are not stranded. I hope this helps for this time, or next.
Good luck.
Dan
One thing I am trying to do more often is finish a thread that I have started. You know, post back after all is well and identify the information that was correct and potentially incorrect.
By doing so, we make the search engine much more powerful to new users and experienced folks alike.
I think that's what Dan is fishing for.......
By doing so, we make the search engine much more powerful to new users and experienced folks alike.
I think that's what Dan is fishing for.......
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- Posts: 14
- Joined: April 14, 2007, 6:34 pm
- Location: Long Beach, CA
I ended up finding a 65' F250 at a junk yard in near my home an practiced removing the brake/clutch pedal assembly before doing it on my own truck. I found it easier to just remove the whole steering column and then remove the pedal assembly. Then I disassembled it on the work bench. I just finished sandblasting the parts an priming them. I'm going to paint them a semi-flat black. It should look good after it's all completed. Thanks for the tips guys.
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW
Goodonya Red, Don`t forget some pic`s.
Alan
Alan
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
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Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................