Is there an easy way to lube this part?
I tried WD and also some spray marine grease. It just won't get in the pivot.
Tomorrow Ill pull back teh insulation and try to pull it
but I am wondering if there isn't a tip to do it in place.
It isn't obvious from the firewall side how its fastened., ie no protruding bolts.
I added a 1" carb spacer to the 429 and the new geometry is screwing up all kinds of stuff.
62 Uni Throttle arm pivot sticky
62 Uni Throttle arm pivot sticky
Someday I'll get another slick 
You can fight with it off and on or you can like you said pull it off, soak in light oil and just work it til it loosens up. Held on by 3 bolts from the inside.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
-
ICEMAN6166
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842
Out of curiosity, what is the symptom? Does the engine not want to idle down where it should, because of the linkage being stiff?
My son's '65 did that & I thought the cable had frayed inside & was causing the throttle to not close all the way...I swapped the cable & the problem persisted.
A while later, I noticed that the pivot point on the gas pedal down by the floor was cracking...hmmm...DING!
I unbolted the gas pedal from the floor & noticed it was stiff as a board! The gas pedal was so stiff, it wouldn't allow a full range of motion from the pivot arm.
That also explains why the PO of my '65 had unbolted the pedal & thrown it behind the seat, leaving only the pivot arm hanging there.
If none of this describes your symptom, please disregard this last transmssion.
My son's '65 did that & I thought the cable had frayed inside & was causing the throttle to not close all the way...I swapped the cable & the problem persisted.
A while later, I noticed that the pivot point on the gas pedal down by the floor was cracking...hmmm...DING!
I unbolted the gas pedal from the floor & noticed it was stiff as a board! The gas pedal was so stiff, it wouldn't allow a full range of motion from the pivot arm.
That also explains why the PO of my '65 had unbolted the pedal & thrown it behind the seat, leaving only the pivot arm hanging there.
If none of this describes your symptom, please disregard this last transmssion.
My "Slickitis" affliction began here...
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
I have a solid rod linkage.
The resistance was in the pedal pivot.
I isolated it by removing parts.
It wasn't obvious how to get it off because I was missing one bolt and my ground strap was covering the other two.
I pulled it, WD it and threw it in a bucket of used motor oil.
About three hours later I cleaned it up and soaked it with more WD40.
Now its fine. It was sticky because of the 1" carb spacer. It put the pivot in a different, stickier spot. Now its AOK!
The resistance was in the pedal pivot.
I isolated it by removing parts.
It wasn't obvious how to get it off because I was missing one bolt and my ground strap was covering the other two.
I pulled it, WD it and threw it in a bucket of used motor oil.
About three hours later I cleaned it up and soaked it with more WD40.
Now its fine. It was sticky because of the 1" carb spacer. It put the pivot in a different, stickier spot. Now its AOK!
Someday I'll get another slick