My Mercury M100 & it's 262 transplant

[X-wind]

Hello all, I recently got my truck together & on the road. I didn't do much mechanical to it & it was my first time doing autobody. It is a 63' & I put a 64 box on it after cutting 7 inches out of the front. It's the original color Ming Green paint code TT.

The 223 in it burns a lot of oil. I wanted to rebuild it until I found a 64' F350 dump truck. It has a 262 in it with 40K or so original miles apparently. I bought it for $500 without cranking it over & the guy is delivering it to my house today.

The carburator is said to have a seized butterly valve. It's also said to run good burning no oil but will need some carb work to do anything but idle.

I need to determine if my 223 single barrel will bolt up to the 262 without new parts. My plan today will be get home from work later this afternoon. Tell my neighbours I'll only have the dump truck in our driveway for a few weeks then do a compression test & try to get it running.

Think I'm going to use the three speed transmission

Here is a photo on drop box. Ill look into a better way to get photos on soon.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1r5utbci1w3u ... Yffua?dl=0

[390fastback]

That's a good looking truck! And neighbors......they just don't get it!

[bird55]

Looks good, Like the paint job!

[The Big M]

Very nice, awesome colour!

If I'm not mistaken the 223 & 262 intake manifolds are interchangeable, so I'd think the carb would swap right over. Good luck!

[X-wind]

Thanks for the comments on the paint. It all adhered propertly so I'm happy as long as it last for the long run. Few waves here & there but it is not a show truck.

Didn't get done all that I wanted to on these days off. Had to go hiking in the mountains because of the warm forecast.

I did get the 262 running for a minute. No compression test yet. The biggest job I found to be was getting the hoist off the truck so I could close my garage door, in part because it involved getting my Mercury unstuck in my backyard.

Back to work for four days & I'll be planning out my next steps.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3yfm02080x0u1 ... 8.jpg?dl=0

[X-wind]

I've got the 262 out & on the engine stand. I've got a four speed with an auxillary PTO to sell as I'm goi to use my light duty three speed.

I put a 3.0 centre section in & the 223 doesn't have enough power for it, looking forward to getting the 262 in.

I'm going to replace the frost plugs & put a new release bearing in. Anything else prudent I shoulld do while the engine is on the stand? Clutch is in very good shape.

[bruceandersson]

You might think about a complete new gasket kit. Not sure about the older sixes, but the 240-300s were known for some oil leakage.

[The Big M]

Rear main seal maybe? Possibly drop the pan and see if there's any sludge buildup? Can't think of too much else that's difficult to reach when the engine is installed. Lots of room on either side in that engine bay, lol.

[X-wind]

So it has been awhile but I'm about ready to drop the 262 in. I've changed the bell housing & will bolt up the light duty 3 speed. Do you good folks think the transmission will be okay behind the 'big six'?

I think the term 'rear seal' is interchangeable in the manual with 'upper crank seal' & to change it requires too much disassembly so I've left it.

There is a lower crank seal & side seals that I may do once I pull the oil pan off.

[unibody madness]

Looks like a good project.
What are your plans for the rest of the parts truck? There is quite a bit you can sell off to help pay for your build. I am looking for the rear cab mounts off the frame if you still have them available. Parts and pieces off the 223 can be sold as well if you have the time and inclination.
John

[bruceandersson]

I think the 3 speed should be fine. Its the same transmission they put behind the 292 yblocks. The 262 probably has more torque than the yblocks.

[X-wind]

Thanks,

The 262 is in & I can't get any spark. New points, coil, plugs & wires. The distributor has a different shaft from the 223.

Should I start disassembling the distributors to swap parts?

[bruceandersson]

Make sure the dist shaft is rotating.
Check the dist cap, these can go bad.
Verify power to the coil, while the engine is cranking.

[Toyz]

After verifying good chassis and engine grounds, with trans in neutral and emergency brake set, try a jumper wire from battery to + side of coil. If it starts , be prepared to pull the jumper in case it decides to remain running. If this actually shows signs of starting, check for voltage at relay "I" terminal. Easy way to do this without assistance is to remove the heavy relay cable running to starter from relay; then jumper from heavy battery plus cable to relay "s" terminal with a test lamp on the "I" terminal connection. If lamp lights when relay is energized, move on to checking "key-on" voltage at coil plus with negative coil terminal jumpered to ground. You should see in the area of 9 volts. Also check wire running from coil "-" to points, especially for any shorts to ground at points or housing. Be sure distributor itself as well as advance plate jumper wire are well grounded. And of course, that points are undamaged and properly gapped. Enough for now, keep us posted.
Paul

[Toyz]

Thanks,

The 262 is in & I can't get any spark. New points, coil, plugs & wires. The distributor has a different shaft from the 223.

Should I start disassembling the distributors to swap parts?

One thing I neglected; you are using the larger 262 shaft and distributor?
Paul

[X-wind]

Thanks a lot guys,

I regret my post in that I didn't have my shop manual with me. I'm not the most astute mechanic in the first place (I operate flying machines for a living) but after the long day of the engine swap I was particularly thick & frustrated with the no spark situation. So I stopped following any sound logic & switched some components from the 223 & pulled the distributor & cranked the engine in a cranky & probably dehydrated state.

Now I've got my wits & my shop manual back. I'll proceed to trouble shoot this intellengently, relatively speaking, by checking the coil & it's upstream wires first. If no joy there, that would be excellent, I'll fix the coil or the wires. If the coil is working I'll get into points, caps, rotor etc & figure it out through elimination. All before realigning the engine to insert the distributor back in it's correct place.

I can hardly wait to hear this wonderful engine come to life.

I've got my 223 carb bolted on up top. I haven't replaced the jets to what the 262 should be yet. I'm curious if it will run like it is. I can feel you guys rolling your eyes at me now ...


Toyz & Bruce I'll try those methods out if need be. I am using the 262 distributor. The 223 has reverse gears. I swapped the condenser & points & cap, rotor over from the 223 because they were quite new.

[Toyz]

You're on top of it, that factory manual will walk you through it. The jetting probably will be fine for original tuning; once everything is sorted, you can approach that.
Paul

[X-wind]

The other very basic question I have is my could doesn't have + & - it has a D & B ... Not sure which is which.

[Koolkatt]

Hate to but in.... B is for Battery D is for Distributor. If you have the wires crossed you will only have about half of the voltage that you need for a good spark.

[X-wind]

My coil does not have a B or a D. So is B positive & D negative? I'm pretty sure it is.

I've narrowed down the problem to the primary circuit.

The following tests were successful:
1) Battery to Coil test
2) Ignition Switch test
3) Resistance Wire test
4) Coil to Ground test

What failed was:
Starting Ignition test. I had a drop of much more then 0.1 volt. So I'm going to buy a new coil (even though the 223 coil was working before the engine swap) & start checking connections slowly.