oil weight,, heavier?
-
jeffw
oil weight,, heavier?
is it wise to use heavier oil in the older engines than the standard 10 or 5w30? a old shop teacher told me that, like deisel engine oil? 20w50? he said there is more sumthin in there that works better, should I beleive this ol fella?
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fmartin_gila
- Posts: 1021
- Joined: April 21, 2007, 9:58 am
- Location: Mandurriao, Iloilo City, Philippines
Jeff,
I use 10-40 year round in my 223, but the temps are a bit milder here than where you are. The 5-30 grades are for the newer style engines from th 90s & up, although you might want to run this grade during the winter. As I remember growing up in that country, the winters are COLD. I have learned to appreciate the winters in Az.
Fred
I use 10-40 year round in my 223, but the temps are a bit milder here than where you are. The 5-30 grades are for the newer style engines from th 90s & up, although you might want to run this grade during the winter. As I remember growing up in that country, the winters are COLD. I have learned to appreciate the winters in Az.
Fred
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DV65CustomCab
- Posts: 1497
- Joined: July 18, 2006, 4:23 pm
- Location: Elizabethtown, PA
I run 15w40 in the summer, but I think that's a little too thick for winter use. ND and KS both can get pretty nippy in the winter.....
Winter I run 5w30. There is NO reason to run 10w30, except that if you really want to run Delo or some other diesel engine oil, they are hard to find in 5w30.
But, HERE is the real tip -- lots of diesel engine oils are now available in semisythetic 5w40 -- thats a GREAT oil for an older engine. If you run low miles, you can leave it in for a whole year (change each spring to get rid of any fuel contamination from cold starts).
Only problem with semisynthetic and synthetic oils is that they are reputed to leak more, which is always a threat in our old engines.
The newest SM rated gas oils are OK, but they have reduced the zinc additives to extend the catalytic convertor life. Since we don't have that, a DEO (diesel engine oil) is actually better.
Winter I run 5w30. There is NO reason to run 10w30, except that if you really want to run Delo or some other diesel engine oil, they are hard to find in 5w30.
But, HERE is the real tip -- lots of diesel engine oils are now available in semisythetic 5w40 -- thats a GREAT oil for an older engine. If you run low miles, you can leave it in for a whole year (change each spring to get rid of any fuel contamination from cold starts).
Only problem with semisynthetic and synthetic oils is that they are reputed to leak more, which is always a threat in our old engines.
The newest SM rated gas oils are OK, but they have reduced the zinc additives to extend the catalytic convertor life. Since we don't have that, a DEO (diesel engine oil) is actually better.
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'
Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!
Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!
My 223 is pretty loose, I run straight 40w in it. It burns less that way.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
-
shawns fords
- Posts: 1111
- Joined: March 31, 2007, 11:34 am
- Location: Foxfield Colorado
- Contact:
Re: oil weight,, heavier?
jeffw wrote:is it wise to use heavier oil in the older engines than the standard 10 or 5w30? a old shop teacher told me that, like deisel engine oil? 20w50? he said there is more sumthin in there that works better, should I beleive this ol fella?
you want that type of engine oil because it has more zinc in it, most of these newer engines do not use lifters and pushrods, instead they are overhead cammers with cam followers. so the zinc is not needed yet oil companies still make the oil and sell for a higher price. so we can all ruin our old engines with "zincless" oils because the word isnt spread out fast enough. I was trying to be comical about this post
you want to run a lighter weight oil in the winter so when you make a cold start the oils weight will be lighter to pump up faster to prevent damage. once the oil is warmed up the weight is increased.
one of the most disgusting things I hear at swap meets and race tracks is a cold start and revved to 3500 prms or higher. I am almost OCD on it
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64fordf100292v8
- Posts: 150
- Joined: July 20, 2006, 6:34 pm
- Location: Billings, MT
I run the Shell Rotella full synthetic 5w40 diesel oil in my 292 year around. My truck always shows oil pressure as soon as it starts no matter how cold it gets here. Coldest ive started it at was 17 below zero. Works good in the summer heat too, doesnt seem to thin out like other oils. No problems with oil leaks either. 
Long Read but worth it.......................
OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!!!!!
By: Keith Ansell, Foreign Parts Positively, Inc.
Quote:
About a year ago I read about the reduction of zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in the oils supplied with API approval that could affect sliding and high pressure (EP) friction in our cars. The reduction of these chemicals in supplied oil was based on the fact that zinc, manganese and/or phosphates reduce the effectiveness and eventually damage catalytic converters and introduce minute amounts of pollutants into our atmosphere.
A month or so ago I had a member of the Columbia Gorge MG Club bring a totally failed camshaft and lifters back to me that had only 900 miles on them!! I immediately contacted the camshaft regrinder and asked how this could happen. They were well aware of this problem as they were starting to have many failures of this type. In the past, the lack of a molybdenum disulfide camshaft assembly lubricant, at assembly, was about the only thing that could create this type of problem. My customer has assembled many engines and had lubricated the camshaft properly and followed correct break in procedures.
This got me on the phone to Delta Camshaft, one of our major suppliers. Then the bad news came out: It’s today’s “modern” API (American Petroleum Industry) approved oils that are killing our engines.
Next call: To another major camshaft supplier, both stock and performance (Crane). They now have an additive for whatever oil you are using during break-in so that the camshaft and lifters won’t fail in an unreasonably short period of time. They also suggest using a diesel rated oil on flat tappet engines.
Next call: To a racing oil manufacturer that we use for the race cars (Redline). Their response: “We are well aware of the problem and we still use the correct amounts of those additives in our products”. They continued to tell me they are not producing API approved oils so they don’t have to test and comply. Their oils were NOT the “new, improved and approved” ones that destroy flat tappet engines! “We just build the best lubricants possible”. Sounds stupid, doesn’t it, New-Approved but inferior products, but it seems to be true for our cars. To top this off: Our representative from a major supplier of performance and street engine parts (EPWI) stopped by to “warn us” of the problem of the NEW oils on flat tappet engines. This was a call that the representative was making only because of this problem to warn their engine builders! “The reduction of the zinc, manganese and phosphates are causing very early destruction of cams and followers”. They are recommending that, for now at least, there must be a proper oil additive put
in the first oil used on new engines, beyond the liberal use of molydisulfide assembly lube. They have been told that the first oil is the time the additives are needed but remain skeptical that the first change is all that is necessary. Their statement: Use diesel rated oils such as Delo or Rotella that are usually available at auto stores and gas stations.
This problem is BIG! American Engine Rebuilder's Association (AERA) Bulletin #TB2333 directly addresses this problem. I had a short discussion with their engineer and he agreed with all that I had been finding.
OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!!!!!
Next phone call was to a retired engineer from Clevite, a major bearing and component manufacturer. First surprise was that he restored older British Motor bikes. The second surprise was that he was “VERY” aware of this problem because many of the old bikes had rectangular tappets that couldn’t rotate and are having a very large problem with the new oils. He has written an article for the British Bike community that verify all the “bad news” we have been finding. Comp Cams put out “#225 Tech Bulletin: Flat Tappet Camshafts”. They have both an assembly lube and an oil additive. The telling sentence in the bulletin was “While this additive was originally developed specifically for break-in benefits of its long term use. This special blend of additives promotes proper break-in and protects against premature cam and lifter failure by replacing some of the beneficial ingredients that the oil companies have been required to remove from the off the–shelf oil”.
Next question: Now what do we do?
From the camshaft re-grinders (DeltaCam) “Use oils rated for diesel use”, Delo (Standard Oil product) was named. About the same price as other quality petroleum based oils. They are not API formulated and have the zinc dithiophosphate we need in weights we are familiar with.
From the camshaft manufacturer (Crane): “use our additive” for at least the first 500 miles.
From General Motors (Chevrolet): add EOS, their oil fortifier, to your oil, it’s only about $12.00 for each oil change for an 8 ounce can (This problem seems to be something GM has known about for some time!).
From Redline Oil: Use our street formulated synthetics. They have what we need!
From our major oil distributor: Distributing Castro, Redline, Valvoline and Industrial oils: “After over a week of contacts we have verified that the major oil companies are aware of the problem”. “The representatives of the oil companies today are only aware of marketing programs and have no knowledge of formulation”. The only major oil companies they were aware of for doing anything to address this are Valvoline that is offering an “Off Road 20W-50” and Redline.
From Castrol: We are beginning to see a pattern emerging on older cars. It may be advantageous to use a non-approved lubricant, such as oils that are Diesel rated, 4 Cycle Motorcycle oils and other specified diesel oils.
Last question: So what are we at Foreign Parts Positively going to do? After much research we are switching to Redline Street rated oils and stocking the Castrol products that are diesel rated. Castrol, owned by British Petroleum, is now just a brand name. This is a difficult decision as we have been a dealer and great believer in all Castrol Products for over 40 years. We have been using Castrol Syntech oil in new engines for about 3 years so the cost difference in changing to Redline is minimal. The actual cost in operation is also less as the additive package in Redline makes a 1-year or up to 18,000 mile change recommended! Yes, it is a long change interval but with lowered sulfur levels and the elimination of lead and many other chemicals in the fuels there are less contaminants in our oil from the fuel, which is the major contributor to oil degradation. We will continue to offer the Castrol products but will now only stock the suggested diesel oils that they produce.
Part II.
Last month’s report on this subject is turning out to be just the tip of the iceberg!
Many publications have had this subject of zinc-dialkyl-dithiophosphate (ZDDP) covered in varying depths over the last few months. Some publications have even had conflicting stories when you compare one month’s article with their next month’s article! They are all ending up supporting our report.
I have had the good fortune to have the ear of quite a few leaders in the industry including some wonderful input from Castrol. We have been very reluctant to “dump” Castrol, as it has been such a great supporter of our cars and industry over the years. Castrol hasn’t really abandoned our cars, just shifted to a more mass marketing mode. Many Castrol products are not appropriate for our cars today, some still are.
Now for the latest report:
#1 Castrol GTX 20W-50 is still good for our cars after break-in! 10W-40, 10W-30 and other grades are NOT good. Absolute NOT GOOD for any oil (Any Brand) that is marked “Energy Conserving” in the API “Donut” on the bottle, these oils are so low with ZDDP or other additives that they will destroy our cams. Virtually all “Diesel” rated oils are acceptable.
#2 Castrol HD 30 is a very good oil for break-in of new motors. This oil has one of the largest concentrations of ZDDP and Moly to conserve our cams and tappets.
#3 Only an unusual Castrol Syntec 20W- 50 approaches the levels of protection we need when we look to the better synthetic lubricants. We are attempting to get this oil but will be using Redline 10W-40 or 10W-30 as these are lighter weights for better performance, flow volume, less drag and has the additive package we need.
#4 The trend today is to lighter weight oils to decrease drag, which increases mileage. Most of these seem to be the “Energy Conservation” oils that we cannot use.
#5 Redline oil and others are suggesting a 3,000-mile break-in for new engines! Proper seating of rings, with today’s lubricants is taking that long to properly seal. Shifting to synthetics before that time will just burn a lot of oil and not run as well as hoped.
#6 The “Energy Conservation“ trend was first lead by automakers to increase mileage numbers and secondly because the ZDDP and other chemicals degrade the catalytic converter after extended miles, increasing pollution. We don’t have catalytic converters and the mileage gains are not that significant for most of us. For you science buffs: ZDDP is a single polar molecule that is attracted to Iron based metals. The one polar end tends to “Stand” the molecule up on the metal surface that it is bonded to by heat and friction. This forms a sacrificial layer to protect the base metal of the cam and tappet from contacting each other.
Only at very high pressures on a flat tappet cam is this necessary because the oil is squeezed/wiped from the surface. This high pressure is also present on the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) in diesel engines, therefore the need for ZDDP in diesel engines. Second part of the equation is Molybdenum disulfide (Moly). The moly bonds to the zinc adding an additional, very slippery, sacrificial layer to the metal. I found out that too much of the moly will create problems; lack of this material reduces the effectiveness of the ZDDP. The percentage, by weight is from .01 to .02%, not much, but necessary. Latest conclusions: Running our older, broken in engines on Castrol 20W-50 GTX is ok. Break in a new engine for 3,000 miles on HD 30 Castrol. New engines (after break-in) and fairly low mileage engines will do best with the Redline 10W-40 or 10W-30 synthetic.
_________________
OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!!!!!
By: Keith Ansell, Foreign Parts Positively, Inc.
Quote:
About a year ago I read about the reduction of zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in the oils supplied with API approval that could affect sliding and high pressure (EP) friction in our cars. The reduction of these chemicals in supplied oil was based on the fact that zinc, manganese and/or phosphates reduce the effectiveness and eventually damage catalytic converters and introduce minute amounts of pollutants into our atmosphere.
A month or so ago I had a member of the Columbia Gorge MG Club bring a totally failed camshaft and lifters back to me that had only 900 miles on them!! I immediately contacted the camshaft regrinder and asked how this could happen. They were well aware of this problem as they were starting to have many failures of this type. In the past, the lack of a molybdenum disulfide camshaft assembly lubricant, at assembly, was about the only thing that could create this type of problem. My customer has assembled many engines and had lubricated the camshaft properly and followed correct break in procedures.
This got me on the phone to Delta Camshaft, one of our major suppliers. Then the bad news came out: It’s today’s “modern” API (American Petroleum Industry) approved oils that are killing our engines.
Next call: To another major camshaft supplier, both stock and performance (Crane). They now have an additive for whatever oil you are using during break-in so that the camshaft and lifters won’t fail in an unreasonably short period of time. They also suggest using a diesel rated oil on flat tappet engines.
Next call: To a racing oil manufacturer that we use for the race cars (Redline). Their response: “We are well aware of the problem and we still use the correct amounts of those additives in our products”. They continued to tell me they are not producing API approved oils so they don’t have to test and comply. Their oils were NOT the “new, improved and approved” ones that destroy flat tappet engines! “We just build the best lubricants possible”. Sounds stupid, doesn’t it, New-Approved but inferior products, but it seems to be true for our cars. To top this off: Our representative from a major supplier of performance and street engine parts (EPWI) stopped by to “warn us” of the problem of the NEW oils on flat tappet engines. This was a call that the representative was making only because of this problem to warn their engine builders! “The reduction of the zinc, manganese and phosphates are causing very early destruction of cams and followers”. They are recommending that, for now at least, there must be a proper oil additive put
in the first oil used on new engines, beyond the liberal use of molydisulfide assembly lube. They have been told that the first oil is the time the additives are needed but remain skeptical that the first change is all that is necessary. Their statement: Use diesel rated oils such as Delo or Rotella that are usually available at auto stores and gas stations.
This problem is BIG! American Engine Rebuilder's Association (AERA) Bulletin #TB2333 directly addresses this problem. I had a short discussion with their engineer and he agreed with all that I had been finding.
OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!!!!!
Next phone call was to a retired engineer from Clevite, a major bearing and component manufacturer. First surprise was that he restored older British Motor bikes. The second surprise was that he was “VERY” aware of this problem because many of the old bikes had rectangular tappets that couldn’t rotate and are having a very large problem with the new oils. He has written an article for the British Bike community that verify all the “bad news” we have been finding. Comp Cams put out “#225 Tech Bulletin: Flat Tappet Camshafts”. They have both an assembly lube and an oil additive. The telling sentence in the bulletin was “While this additive was originally developed specifically for break-in benefits of its long term use. This special blend of additives promotes proper break-in and protects against premature cam and lifter failure by replacing some of the beneficial ingredients that the oil companies have been required to remove from the off the–shelf oil”.
Next question: Now what do we do?
From the camshaft re-grinders (DeltaCam) “Use oils rated for diesel use”, Delo (Standard Oil product) was named. About the same price as other quality petroleum based oils. They are not API formulated and have the zinc dithiophosphate we need in weights we are familiar with.
From the camshaft manufacturer (Crane): “use our additive” for at least the first 500 miles.
From General Motors (Chevrolet): add EOS, their oil fortifier, to your oil, it’s only about $12.00 for each oil change for an 8 ounce can (This problem seems to be something GM has known about for some time!).
From Redline Oil: Use our street formulated synthetics. They have what we need!
From our major oil distributor: Distributing Castro, Redline, Valvoline and Industrial oils: “After over a week of contacts we have verified that the major oil companies are aware of the problem”. “The representatives of the oil companies today are only aware of marketing programs and have no knowledge of formulation”. The only major oil companies they were aware of for doing anything to address this are Valvoline that is offering an “Off Road 20W-50” and Redline.
From Castrol: We are beginning to see a pattern emerging on older cars. It may be advantageous to use a non-approved lubricant, such as oils that are Diesel rated, 4 Cycle Motorcycle oils and other specified diesel oils.
Last question: So what are we at Foreign Parts Positively going to do? After much research we are switching to Redline Street rated oils and stocking the Castrol products that are diesel rated. Castrol, owned by British Petroleum, is now just a brand name. This is a difficult decision as we have been a dealer and great believer in all Castrol Products for over 40 years. We have been using Castrol Syntech oil in new engines for about 3 years so the cost difference in changing to Redline is minimal. The actual cost in operation is also less as the additive package in Redline makes a 1-year or up to 18,000 mile change recommended! Yes, it is a long change interval but with lowered sulfur levels and the elimination of lead and many other chemicals in the fuels there are less contaminants in our oil from the fuel, which is the major contributor to oil degradation. We will continue to offer the Castrol products but will now only stock the suggested diesel oils that they produce.
Part II.
Last month’s report on this subject is turning out to be just the tip of the iceberg!
Many publications have had this subject of zinc-dialkyl-dithiophosphate (ZDDP) covered in varying depths over the last few months. Some publications have even had conflicting stories when you compare one month’s article with their next month’s article! They are all ending up supporting our report.
I have had the good fortune to have the ear of quite a few leaders in the industry including some wonderful input from Castrol. We have been very reluctant to “dump” Castrol, as it has been such a great supporter of our cars and industry over the years. Castrol hasn’t really abandoned our cars, just shifted to a more mass marketing mode. Many Castrol products are not appropriate for our cars today, some still are.
Now for the latest report:
#1 Castrol GTX 20W-50 is still good for our cars after break-in! 10W-40, 10W-30 and other grades are NOT good. Absolute NOT GOOD for any oil (Any Brand) that is marked “Energy Conserving” in the API “Donut” on the bottle, these oils are so low with ZDDP or other additives that they will destroy our cams. Virtually all “Diesel” rated oils are acceptable.
#2 Castrol HD 30 is a very good oil for break-in of new motors. This oil has one of the largest concentrations of ZDDP and Moly to conserve our cams and tappets.
#3 Only an unusual Castrol Syntec 20W- 50 approaches the levels of protection we need when we look to the better synthetic lubricants. We are attempting to get this oil but will be using Redline 10W-40 or 10W-30 as these are lighter weights for better performance, flow volume, less drag and has the additive package we need.
#4 The trend today is to lighter weight oils to decrease drag, which increases mileage. Most of these seem to be the “Energy Conservation” oils that we cannot use.
#5 Redline oil and others are suggesting a 3,000-mile break-in for new engines! Proper seating of rings, with today’s lubricants is taking that long to properly seal. Shifting to synthetics before that time will just burn a lot of oil and not run as well as hoped.
#6 The “Energy Conservation“ trend was first lead by automakers to increase mileage numbers and secondly because the ZDDP and other chemicals degrade the catalytic converter after extended miles, increasing pollution. We don’t have catalytic converters and the mileage gains are not that significant for most of us. For you science buffs: ZDDP is a single polar molecule that is attracted to Iron based metals. The one polar end tends to “Stand” the molecule up on the metal surface that it is bonded to by heat and friction. This forms a sacrificial layer to protect the base metal of the cam and tappet from contacting each other.
Only at very high pressures on a flat tappet cam is this necessary because the oil is squeezed/wiped from the surface. This high pressure is also present on the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) in diesel engines, therefore the need for ZDDP in diesel engines. Second part of the equation is Molybdenum disulfide (Moly). The moly bonds to the zinc adding an additional, very slippery, sacrificial layer to the metal. I found out that too much of the moly will create problems; lack of this material reduces the effectiveness of the ZDDP. The percentage, by weight is from .01 to .02%, not much, but necessary. Latest conclusions: Running our older, broken in engines on Castrol 20W-50 GTX is ok. Break in a new engine for 3,000 miles on HD 30 Castrol. New engines (after break-in) and fairly low mileage engines will do best with the Redline 10W-40 or 10W-30 synthetic.
_________________
Jim
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fmartin_gila
- Posts: 1021
- Joined: April 21, 2007, 9:58 am
- Location: Mandurriao, Iloilo City, Philippines
so is there any problems running the newer vehicles with the diesel oil? can i put the Rotella T in my 2001 f-150 ? that would be sweet, then i wouldnt have to buy different oil, i just used the synthetic rotella T in my superdutys last oil change
________
buy silver surfer vaporizer
________
buy silver surfer vaporizer
Last edited by dwbr on February 6, 2011, 11:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I read a thread on this subject about a year ago & someone said Royal Purple was a safe oil too...don't know if it still holds true.
My "Slickitis" affliction began here...
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
-
blackagatha
- Posts: 2582
- Joined: March 10, 2007, 12:49 am
- Location: Arizona
dwbr wrote:so is there any problems running the newer vehicles with the diesel oil? can i put the Rotella T in my 2001 f-150 ? that would be sweet, then i wouldnt have to buy different oil, i just used the synthetic rotella T in my superdutys last oil change
just the zinc, which I just learned tonight makes the Cat burn up quicker.
'63 with 390 & lots of juice. But never enough. Always want more.
Jakdad that is a great article you’ve shared. I put a call in and left a message for an old friend of mine that has worked for Amsoil for some time, we had this discussion a few years ago and Amsoil is also aware of the problems with the newer oils. I have been using Amsoil for a long time with excellent results. I will see if he has any good info he can send me that relates our older engines. I’ve also heard more than once that the Shell Rotella full synthetic 5w40 diesel oil is a good option in our type of engines.
-
unibodyboy
- Posts: 165
- Joined: August 14, 2006, 2:44 am
- Location: Washington State
Use whatever oil you wish, but if you are using flat tappet cams, you absolutely must use something like this with it....
http://www.hughesengines.com/partDetail ... eTypeID=20
http://www.hughesengines.com/partDetail ... eTypeID=20
Greater love has no man than this, that a man lay down his life for his friends. John 15.13
" absolutely must" is an overstatement.
A well broke in flat tappet cam engine probably will do just fine with the latest oils. If the engine fails after putting some modern SM oil in there, it was on its way out already before hand. Now, might the right DEO with plenty of zddp have gotten a few more miles -- quite possible.
But breaking in a rebuilt flat tappet engine definitely requires some extra attention. There are break-in oils and additives. The one noted above, I might add, does NOT add any zinc (or zddp) which is the major ingredient mssing from a lot of the modern oils. They wanted it to be safe with catalytic convertors. I would look further.....
If this topic grabs you, go over to the forums at www.bobistheoilguy.com You will find there are thousands of like minded oil fanatics who have discussed this very question TO DEATH!!!
A well broke in flat tappet cam engine probably will do just fine with the latest oils. If the engine fails after putting some modern SM oil in there, it was on its way out already before hand. Now, might the right DEO with plenty of zddp have gotten a few more miles -- quite possible.
But breaking in a rebuilt flat tappet engine definitely requires some extra attention. There are break-in oils and additives. The one noted above, I might add, does NOT add any zinc (or zddp) which is the major ingredient mssing from a lot of the modern oils. They wanted it to be safe with catalytic convertors. I would look further.....
If this topic grabs you, go over to the forums at www.bobistheoilguy.com You will find there are thousands of like minded oil fanatics who have discussed this very question TO DEATH!!!
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'
Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!
Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!