Hi Banjo,
Finally got around to installing the overdrive tranny I got from you. Having a misserable time getting it to shift into overdrive. Just not working. Also, did the tranny have a habit of droping out of second gear? May just be linkage adjustment, but I adjusted it like it's supposed to be. Will be doing a lot of testing today, and try to come up with a solution to my problem. Just hope it is not the selenoid. I think you said that it was fairly new.
Rich
Message for Banjo
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banjopicker66
- Posts: 1488
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 1:59 pm
- Location: Middlesboro, KY
Rich, Sorry about the delay in getting back to you. I am traveling quite a bit now, and do not always have internet access. As a matter of fact, I am in El Centro, CA right now.
As for second gear, no, it never had any trouble in any gear, except that 1st isn't synchronized, so it grinds if you downshift while moving. My only thought for second popping out would be that the shift rods are switched, perhaps, or the linkage isn't tight? I really don't know. I am sorry I cannot be of more help.
As for the OD solenoid, yes, it was NOS.
Do you have the factory wiring diagram? I have a scanned picture of it here on my computer, send me your e-mail and I will send it to you.
Do you still have the CD with all the pictures I took of the correct wiring installation? Do you need it again? I still have them all, but it will be a while before I can send you a CD.
The handle must be pushed IN to operate in OD. Pulled out locks the OD system out, to prevent free-wheeling.
Any problems with that OD system will be electrical setup IF the solenoid tests out good. I'll put up trouble shooting directions I wrote years ago down below.
That particular solenoid had the connector for the later Ford plugs. If I remember right, I wired the later Ford plug to the truck - right? f you put it in like I took it out, then it will be wired correctly.
Hope this helps.
The following is from an old Motors Manual and has never failed me.
The following tests are all made with the engine not running.
To check the solenoid circuit:
Step 1. Ignition switch on. Ground the TH-SW terminal on the relay (it's usually the terminal on the right as you look at the relay). If both the relay and solenoid click when you make and break the ground, the circuit is working properly. Leave the ground in place for the next steps.
If it doesn't, go to step 2.
Step 2. Check the fuse. Just because it looks good doesn't mean it is. Many of them break in the metallic end cap and still appear good. Use a continuity light or multi-meter. If in doubt replace it. Repeat step 1.
If it still doesn't test good, go to step 3.
Step 3. Ignition switch on. Check the IGN terminal on the relay with either a test lamp or a multi-meter. It should be hot. If it isn't, the trouble (or at least one) is between the ignition switch and the IGN terminal on the relay.
If it is hot, go to step 4.
Step 4. Ignition switch still on. Connect a test lamp of the circuit voltage between the SOL terminal on the relay (it's usually on the left as you look at the solenoid) and a ground. The light should light. If it doesn't, the relay is bad.
If it does light, go to step 5.
Step 5. If the relay is working in step 4, the solenoid should snap when the TH-SW terminal is grounded (see step 1). If it doesn't, connect a jumper from the SOL relay terminal to the short black wire (it's only a couple of inches long) coming from the relay (some may be blue but all have an electrical bullet type connectors on them). If the solenoid does not click when you connect the jumper, replace the solenoid. If it does click, the wire between the relay and solenoid is defective. This should pin point the trouble.
As for second gear, no, it never had any trouble in any gear, except that 1st isn't synchronized, so it grinds if you downshift while moving. My only thought for second popping out would be that the shift rods are switched, perhaps, or the linkage isn't tight? I really don't know. I am sorry I cannot be of more help.
As for the OD solenoid, yes, it was NOS.
Do you have the factory wiring diagram? I have a scanned picture of it here on my computer, send me your e-mail and I will send it to you.
Do you still have the CD with all the pictures I took of the correct wiring installation? Do you need it again? I still have them all, but it will be a while before I can send you a CD.
The handle must be pushed IN to operate in OD. Pulled out locks the OD system out, to prevent free-wheeling.
Any problems with that OD system will be electrical setup IF the solenoid tests out good. I'll put up trouble shooting directions I wrote years ago down below.
That particular solenoid had the connector for the later Ford plugs. If I remember right, I wired the later Ford plug to the truck - right? f you put it in like I took it out, then it will be wired correctly.
Hope this helps.
The following is from an old Motors Manual and has never failed me.
The following tests are all made with the engine not running.
To check the solenoid circuit:
Step 1. Ignition switch on. Ground the TH-SW terminal on the relay (it's usually the terminal on the right as you look at the relay). If both the relay and solenoid click when you make and break the ground, the circuit is working properly. Leave the ground in place for the next steps.
If it doesn't, go to step 2.
Step 2. Check the fuse. Just because it looks good doesn't mean it is. Many of them break in the metallic end cap and still appear good. Use a continuity light or multi-meter. If in doubt replace it. Repeat step 1.
If it still doesn't test good, go to step 3.
Step 3. Ignition switch on. Check the IGN terminal on the relay with either a test lamp or a multi-meter. It should be hot. If it isn't, the trouble (or at least one) is between the ignition switch and the IGN terminal on the relay.
If it is hot, go to step 4.
Step 4. Ignition switch still on. Connect a test lamp of the circuit voltage between the SOL terminal on the relay (it's usually on the left as you look at the solenoid) and a ground. The light should light. If it doesn't, the relay is bad.
If it does light, go to step 5.
Step 5. If the relay is working in step 4, the solenoid should snap when the TH-SW terminal is grounded (see step 1). If it doesn't, connect a jumper from the SOL relay terminal to the short black wire (it's only a couple of inches long) coming from the relay (some may be blue but all have an electrical bullet type connectors on them). If the solenoid does not click when you connect the jumper, replace the solenoid. If it does click, the wire between the relay and solenoid is defective. This should pin point the trouble.
Last edited by banjopicker66 on November 17, 2007, 9:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
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banjopicker66
- Posts: 1488
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 1:59 pm
- Location: Middlesboro, KY
Greetings Banjo, well I found my problems, and got it to working. Had the wires crossed on the switch. The problem was I had rewired the soldier joints, and gotten the wires crossed in the process. Other problem, was had the wire on the wrtong side of coil. Still haven't gotten to the linkage to check out falling out of second gear yet. There is some slop in the shifting linkage. Everythin is working as it should at the moment other than that. It cost me 200$ to have the driveshaft shorted and modified to work on the shortbed. With gas being so high, it shouldn't take to long to recoup my investment. While your in CA. pick me a couple nice cabs and core supports, and send them to me. 
Just need 66 supports and both 64 and 66 cabs and beds. Actualy have some nice beds spotted in Kansas, along with ramhorn manifolds, but haven't gotten back to get those yet.
Have a great day,
Rich
Just need 66 supports and both 64 and 66 cabs and beds. Actualy have some nice beds spotted in Kansas, along with ramhorn manifolds, but haven't gotten back to get those yet.
Have a great day,
Rich
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banjopicker66
- Posts: 1488
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 1:59 pm
- Location: Middlesboro, KY
Banjo, I got the shifter problem straightened out. I used the original linkage off my truck, and apparently there must be some difference in the linkage from a toploader and side loader, as the shift arm was hitting the other linkage. I went to the box of parts I got from you, but apparently, I moved that particular piece of linkage. Anyway, I took off the linkage and put the hotwrench to it, and everything is working great now.
Thanks, a bunch,
Rich
Thanks, a bunch,
Rich
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fmartin_gila
- Posts: 1021
- Joined: April 21, 2007, 9:58 am
- Location: Mandurriao, Iloilo City, Philippines
If you go to the Yahoo Group for Ford Pickups, in the Files section there is the Manual for all aspects (theory, installation, troubleshooting, and rebuilding) of the 3 spd + OD tranny that you can download and print if you want to. I have each page downloaded into my 'pictures' file on my computer.
Fred
Fred