Intake manifold gasket
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"Whitey Ford"
- Posts: 701
- Joined: November 8, 2007, 11:12 am
- Location: Jackson, MS
Intake manifold gasket
What are the steps in replacing a Intake Manifold for a 352/390 (same i take it)? To remove the distributer what would i be looking at when i re-installed it. Are the any problems or proper meaures i should take when taking the intake out? I dont have alot of specialty tools so I dont want to take it apart and then relaize I dont have a "doo hikcy" to reinstall something. Or should I just bring it to someone to replace it? Iam trying to learn as much as possible on my own but I dont want to learn the hard way when it comes to soemthing as simple as changing a gasket. I know these are easy questions but I dont have the money for stupid mistakes. hahha which im sure is like most people.
Girls love a pick-up man.
The process should go something like this...
*Drain radiator.
*Remove carburetor (for less total weight, if you want)
*Remove valve covers
*Remove rocker arm shafts , leaving bolts in their holes as you remove (take note of location of one skinny bolt on each shaft)
*Get a piece of cardboard & punch two rows of holes (16 in all) with a screwdriver, mark an arrow for "front" on cardboard
*Remove push rods one at a time & push them into cardboard holes in the order they are removed
*Remove distributer hold down, wipe dirt & grease from distributor base before removal, to lessen risk of dirt falling in.
*Remove distributor cap & mark where the rotor's pointing, mark dist. base too.
*Remove distributor
*Cut bypass hose in half with razor blade (make sure you have a 3" chunk of 5/8 heater hose to replace it with)
*Remove intake bolts & muscle intake off engine.
*Clean both mating surfaces, being careful to not leave gasket chunks inside lifter valley.
*Degrease mating surfaces with carb cleaner on a clean rag
*Slip 3" chunk of 5/8 heater hose on bypass nipple before you get the manifold anywhere near the truck
*Lay new gaskets in their homes & goop a little silicone on both sides of the 4 corners of front & rear cork gaskets. Leave the rest dry
*Ease the intake back on & screw the bolts in finger tight
*Slip distributor back in, making sure it's centered in intake hole. If it's not, smack the intake a little with a mallet until the distributor is centered. They like to leak oil if not centered.
Make sure distributor shaft & rotor marks are where they started
*Torque intake bolts to 45 ft lbs (if I recall) in 20 lb increments, starting from the middle in a spiral pattern.
*Slip push rods back in their original holes
*Reinstall rocker shafts & torque to 45 ft lbs, in 10 lb increments.
*Make sure all push rods are in their homes & none fell to the side
*Reinstall valve covers, carb, hoses, etc.
*Refill radiator & start-er-up!
If I missed something, forgive me...it's been a while.
*Drain radiator.
*Remove carburetor (for less total weight, if you want)
*Remove valve covers
*Remove rocker arm shafts , leaving bolts in their holes as you remove (take note of location of one skinny bolt on each shaft)
*Get a piece of cardboard & punch two rows of holes (16 in all) with a screwdriver, mark an arrow for "front" on cardboard
*Remove push rods one at a time & push them into cardboard holes in the order they are removed
*Remove distributer hold down, wipe dirt & grease from distributor base before removal, to lessen risk of dirt falling in.
*Remove distributor cap & mark where the rotor's pointing, mark dist. base too.
*Remove distributor
*Cut bypass hose in half with razor blade (make sure you have a 3" chunk of 5/8 heater hose to replace it with)
*Remove intake bolts & muscle intake off engine.
*Clean both mating surfaces, being careful to not leave gasket chunks inside lifter valley.
*Degrease mating surfaces with carb cleaner on a clean rag
*Slip 3" chunk of 5/8 heater hose on bypass nipple before you get the manifold anywhere near the truck
*Lay new gaskets in their homes & goop a little silicone on both sides of the 4 corners of front & rear cork gaskets. Leave the rest dry
*Ease the intake back on & screw the bolts in finger tight
*Slip distributor back in, making sure it's centered in intake hole. If it's not, smack the intake a little with a mallet until the distributor is centered. They like to leak oil if not centered.
Make sure distributor shaft & rotor marks are where they started
*Torque intake bolts to 45 ft lbs (if I recall) in 20 lb increments, starting from the middle in a spiral pattern.
*Slip push rods back in their original holes
*Reinstall rocker shafts & torque to 45 ft lbs, in 10 lb increments.
*Make sure all push rods are in their homes & none fell to the side
*Reinstall valve covers, carb, hoses, etc.
*Refill radiator & start-er-up!
If I missed something, forgive me...it's been a while.
My "Slickitis" affliction began here...
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
I need to explain a little more about the distributor. When reinstalling, sometimes it can hang up on the hex shaped oil pump drive shaft & not seat all the way. The top shoulder of the distributor needs to be flush with the intake, leaving the rubber seal barely visible.
If the seal is easily visible, it's probably not seated in far enough.
*You can either turn the shaft a little & drop it back in again, which might end up with your rotor pointing a little off from where it was before removal.
*Or you can turn the drive shaft slightly with some needlenose pliers & try the fit again.
If the seal is easily visible, it's probably not seated in far enough.
*You can either turn the shaft a little & drop it back in again, which might end up with your rotor pointing a little off from where it was before removal.
*Or you can turn the drive shaft slightly with some needlenose pliers & try the fit again.
My "Slickitis" affliction began here...
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
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blackagatha
- Posts: 2582
- Joined: March 10, 2007, 12:49 am
- Location: Arizona
that sounds pretty good to me.
HOWEVER, if it is a stock iron intake, it probably weighs at or over 100 pounds. If you have it, use an engine hoist to get it out without breaking something. (ie your back)
Use a putty knife to split it loose. MAYBE a deadblow mallet if ur really careful.
I've been reccommended to use Ultra Black silicone in place of the end gaskets when putting back together. I've had decent luck with it. HOWEVER, either way, get a friend to help you re install it. Last time I had my engine torn apart (In the truck), I installed the intake myself (aluminum) but still awkward, and knocked the silicone bead off the ledge in the back. worked out for a terrible oil leak. (this is an even worse issue if using the stock style gaskets. ) Mostly, check the seals BEFORE "EVERYTHING" is back together. Fix the problem early.
AND do yourself a favor and install a chunk of SILICONE Heater Hose on the bypass. It will NEVER go bad. Not sure where mine came from. not "terrible" expensive. At least not for a short chunk. Don't bother using it for the actual heater hoses. AND you can't use normal standard hose clamps with the threads cut in the band. it will wreck the hose. you gotta use either some oldschool "tower" clamps or the ones at the parts store in the "hop-up" section that have a rubber insert in them.
HOWEVER, if it is a stock iron intake, it probably weighs at or over 100 pounds. If you have it, use an engine hoist to get it out without breaking something. (ie your back)
Use a putty knife to split it loose. MAYBE a deadblow mallet if ur really careful.
I've been reccommended to use Ultra Black silicone in place of the end gaskets when putting back together. I've had decent luck with it. HOWEVER, either way, get a friend to help you re install it. Last time I had my engine torn apart (In the truck), I installed the intake myself (aluminum) but still awkward, and knocked the silicone bead off the ledge in the back. worked out for a terrible oil leak. (this is an even worse issue if using the stock style gaskets. ) Mostly, check the seals BEFORE "EVERYTHING" is back together. Fix the problem early.
AND do yourself a favor and install a chunk of SILICONE Heater Hose on the bypass. It will NEVER go bad. Not sure where mine came from. not "terrible" expensive. At least not for a short chunk. Don't bother using it for the actual heater hoses. AND you can't use normal standard hose clamps with the threads cut in the band. it will wreck the hose. you gotta use either some oldschool "tower" clamps or the ones at the parts store in the "hop-up" section that have a rubber insert in them.
'63 with 390 & lots of juice. But never enough. Always want more.
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shawns fords
- Posts: 1111
- Joined: March 31, 2007, 11:34 am
- Location: Foxfield Colorado
- Contact:
Re: Intake manifold gasket
"Whitey Ford" wrote:What are the steps in replacing a Intake Manifold for a 352/390 (same i take it)? To remove the distributer what would i be looking at when i re-installed it. Are the any problems or proper meaures i should take when taking the intake out? I dont have alot of specialty tools so I dont want to take it apart and then relaize I dont have a "doo hikcy" to reinstall something. Or should I just bring it to someone to replace it? Iam trying to learn as much as possible on my own but I dont want to learn the hard way when it comes to soemthing as simple as changing a gasket. I know these are easy questions but I dont have the money for stupid mistakes. hahha which im sure is like most people.
If you want to learn this buy yourself a repair manual. any ford manual with vehicles that have your engine will do, I prefer motor books. they have the best information. you will need a tourque wrench to tighten the manifold bolts properly and in sequence. As well you will need a timing light.
have fun
make sure its clean as well! .
blackagatha wrote:
I've been reccommended to use Ultra Black silicone in place of the end gaskets when putting back together. I've had decent luck with it. HOWEVER, either way, get a friend to help you re install it. Last time I had my engine torn apart (In the truck), I installed the intake myself (aluminum) but still awkward, and knocked the silicone bead off the ledge in the back. worked out for a terrible oil leak. (this is an even worse issue if using the stock style gaskets. ) Mostly, check the seals BEFORE "EVERYTHING" is back together. Fix the problem early.
Not trying to slam you here buddy, but there's no way I'd substitute the end gaskets for a big gob of silicone. That's just nuts.
The cork gaskets have always worked fine for me by installing them dry, with a dab of silicone in the corners. You just have to make sure they have stayed put before you finish the job.
My "Slickitis" affliction began here...
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
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Truckfarmer
- Posts: 324
- Joined: April 3, 2006, 5:53 pm
- Location: Illinois
I guess it's just me, then. 
I've just seen too many cases where guys have thought silicone was the 'magic cure-all' for leaks...often with less than stellar results.
Anyhoo, whatever works I guess.
I've just seen too many cases where guys have thought silicone was the 'magic cure-all' for leaks...often with less than stellar results.
Anyhoo, whatever works I guess.
My "Slickitis" affliction began here...
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
-
blackagatha
- Posts: 2582
- Joined: March 10, 2007, 12:49 am
- Location: Arizona
Even Steve Christ's How To Rebuild Ford Big Block Engines recommends the silicone method, or so I believe anyway.
May well not be the best way to do it... after all, I DID just have a bout of bad luck with it...
Seems to me though that the supplied end gaskets are NOT very thick, and the end gaps are quite large... Maybe Im just crazy....
May well not be the best way to do it... after all, I DID just have a bout of bad luck with it...
Seems to me though that the supplied end gaskets are NOT very thick, and the end gaps are quite large... Maybe Im just crazy....
'63 with 390 & lots of juice. But never enough. Always want more.
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blackagatha
- Posts: 2582
- Joined: March 10, 2007, 12:49 am
- Location: Arizona
Jarrod wrote:I used silicone as well. Never had any real issues with it. Just make sure that you put the intake down straight
yaah. that's where I ran into trouble this last time, I accidentally came in at an angle, and rear end low, kinda gouged some out of the back, and like a dumbnut, I didn't think to check the goop before I bolted everything down....
'63 with 390 & lots of juice. But never enough. Always want more.