voltage and charging

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kuby67
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 3:23 pm
Location: California

voltage and charging

Post by kuby67 »

After a week of chasing ghosts, my 65 f100 slick ended up having a bad ignition switch center post. A new ignition switch was installed and a new problem came to call... :wink: The electrical system is now maxing out at 12.7 volts (alt light stays on). The alternator and voltage regulator were tested and are OK/ all known grounds have been cleaned and grounding straps replaced. (The problem seems to be somewhere between my cerebral cortex and spinal cord.) Before this new voltage problem, I had been connecting a battery-hot, yellow wire to the old ignition switch center post to power the instruments, etc; there was no ALT light and the charging system was 14+ volts. Logic suggests that I once again connect this HOT yellow wire to the hot center post but logic suggests that might not be a good idea. Help :(
blackagatha
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Post by blackagatha »

check the terminal on the end of your hot wire... sounds like the wires may have broken where it is crimped, may be making a buttload of resistance.
'63 with 390 & lots of juice. But never enough. Always want more.
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Rosati
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Post by Rosati »

link-a-doo!

Follow this link to have a look at the regulator hookups.
I suspect your ignition switch wire is not hooked up The "I" terminal on the regulator)
Try running a jumper from the battery to the "I" terminal and see if you start charging. If so, you need to trace the "I" wire back to the switch.
If you try the jumper wire, you may not be able to shut of the truck with the key until you unhook the "I" terminal (bypasses the IGN switch)
Last edited by Rosati on February 13, 2008, 9:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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kuby67
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 3:23 pm
Location: California

Post by kuby67 »

I tried that and it made no difference in the system voltage. Is the voltage at the I terminal voltage regulator supposed to drop to 6 volts when the vehicle is running? (harness connected to regulator)
kuby67
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 3:23 pm
Location: California

Post by kuby67 »

not sure if anyone is still watching but the problem ended up being in the field wire. It had a partial break in it. I had previously tested the continuity and it was fine. I tested it again and it was no good. Field wire replaced, problem solved. Thanks for the info!!
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Slick Fan
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Post by Slick Fan »

I missed this thread the first pass, but I'm glad you found your problem. :thumright:
Wiring problems can be a bugger.
My "Slickitis" affliction began here...
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66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
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Rosati
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Post by Rosati »

Kuddos on finding the fix.
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ICEMAN6166
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Post by ICEMAN6166 »

glad you were able to kill the gremlin.
i have run across that issue before, wire has a bad spot, depending on how you move it , may or may not get power thru.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
GLindley
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Location: Springfield, MO

Post by GLindley »

Is the "battery post" on an externally regulated alternator be "hot"with engine off and key off?
My Gen light came on the other day, and I took off my alternator and had it checked. The alt was bad, but when I put the new one on, still have the Gen light on with engine running. Took alt back and had parts house check it. Checked out okay. While putting the alt back on the truck with a ratchet, I touched the engine and bat post on the alt and it sparked.
Gene
1961 Intregal cab SWB 223 (getting 302 & TIB)
1969 LWB 302 automatic (Donor for the '61)
2000 F150 XLT SWB (Daily Driver)
kuby67
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 3:23 pm
Location: California

Post by kuby67 »

ouch!!! I don't know too much about electrical. But if the ALT is not supposed to have voltage when the key's off it could be a bad solenoid.
ICEMAN6166
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Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842
Poland

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

GLindley wrote:Is the "battery post" on an externally regulated alternator be "hot"with engine off and key off?
My Gen light came on the other day, and I took off my alternator and had it checked. The alt was bad, but when I put the new one on, still have the Gen light on with engine running. Took alt back and had parts house check it. Checked out okay. While putting the alt back on the truck with a ratchet, I touched the engine and bat post on the alt and it sparked.
Gene, the bat post on any alt or gen is always hot, as it is a direct wire from the bat.

when i dig up that speedometer cable, i will find you an "alt" insert for your instrument panel to replace the "gen" one if you want.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
GLindley
Posts: 562
Joined: July 11, 2006, 9:47 pm
Location: Springfield, MO

Post by GLindley »

Thanks Ice, that would be nice! (Did THAT just rhyme?). As you can see, though, I have wiring gremlins to run down. And what little I know mechanically, I know even less electrically...(sigh)...
Gene
1961 Intregal cab SWB 223 (getting 302 & TIB)
1969 LWB 302 automatic (Donor for the '61)
2000 F150 XLT SWB (Daily Driver)
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