65 F100 - Ned some experienced knowledge
65 F100 - Ned some experienced knowledge
My clutch linkage mount broke this weekend. Actually there is a pin or bold (unsure which one) goes from the linkage into the side of the block just forward of the bell housing. The pin/bolt broke off clean level with the block. How do I get this pin/bolt out of the block? Is it a pin or is it a bolt? I can better explain, if someone already ahs any idea of what I am describing.
-
Garbz
-
ICEMAN6166
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842

ball with threads on back screws into block.
ball broke off, threads still in block.
drill in center and use EZ out or weld something onto remaining piece if possible and unthread.
ball broke off, threads still in block.
drill in center and use EZ out or weld something onto remaining piece if possible and unthread.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
ah!! SO you are aware of what i am talking about? It broke off in the openeing. Not a chance to get vise grips on it. You can rub your finger across the hole, and it is not protruding at all. It seems that this will be a bear to drill. I have no idea how to even start to do it. I guess there is no other options. From the immediate responses, I take it that this is not a new problem. I was apprehensive to ask here. If suspected, I might be laughed out of this place.
Also, any ideas as to where I might find a diagram of what this mystery piece looks like? (how long, etc). Obviouslyu the part that should be sticking out, is nowhere to be found. Where will I find a replacement? If tit has a ball on the end, then what do you use to wrench it into place?
Thanks ofr all these helpful responses!
Thanks ofr all these helpful responses!
-
ICEMAN6166
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842

heres the diagram
part is on lower left , 7A535.
says 6 cyl but this is early diagram,same for 6 and 302

i have one in the shop i can take a pic of later.
theres wrench flats on it for tightening up.
part is on lower left , 7A535.
says 6 cyl but this is early diagram,same for 6 and 302

i have one in the shop i can take a pic of later.
theres wrench flats on it for tightening up.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
This is absolutely perfect. It looks exactly correct. My trck has either a 24 or a 300 engine. I am ucertain as to which, as i am told the basic difference is piston size. Supposedly the blocks are he same. Where do I find these parts (7A535) and the associated parts on this diagram. Is that a Ford part number, or is this diagram from a catalogue that I could order from?
I would think that you could still order one from the dealer. I bet they were the same part into the late 80's...or until they went with hydraulic clutches.
My "Slickitis" affliction began here...

66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!

66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
- 64 litl un
- Posts: 156
- Joined: October 9, 2006, 11:26 pm
- Location: Heart of Dixie
You dont haft to worry about being laughed off the forum but you may very well be laughed out of the parts store when you ask for a replacement.
I havent had much luck with parts like these from the parts stores especially the chain stores. The same can be said for the dealerships. The dealership could probably get it but where I have a problems is finding someone that knows how to look it up.
Your best bet is a junkyard. It may be found still attached to a pulled engine.
I havent had much luck with parts like these from the parts stores especially the chain stores. The same can be said for the dealerships. The dealership could probably get it but where I have a problems is finding someone that knows how to look it up.
Your best bet is a junkyard. It may be found still attached to a pulled engine.
I can drive it home with one headlight.
-
ICEMAN6166
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842

junkyard is the only likely source. unless you have a lathe.
the piece is of poor design as there is an undercut at the top of the threads so it bolts in all the way flat. the piece always breaks at that spot. that is if they do not loosen up and fall out or fubar the hole.
actually its 3 pieces, the part that bolts in,the nylon hollow ball and a c-clip holding in the ball.
the piece is of poor design as there is an undercut at the top of the threads so it bolts in all the way flat. the piece always breaks at that spot. that is if they do not loosen up and fall out or fubar the hole.
actually its 3 pieces, the part that bolts in,the nylon hollow ball and a c-clip holding in the ball.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
- FORDMANLCRACKEL
- Posts: 1237
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 9:48 pm
- Location: williamston, n.c.
- Contact:

Dont throw them away just because the threaded part is broken off. My crate motor didnt even have a threaded hole to screw one in to. It uses a 93 block. So i made one of these.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lonniecradd ... 6042408770
http://picasaweb.google.com/lonniecradd ... 8927310674
It uses 2 bellhousing bolts to mount, Ford did the same thing with stamped sheet metal. Mine works great.
Lonnie
http://picasaweb.google.com/lonniecradd ... 6042408770
http://picasaweb.google.com/lonniecradd ... 8927310674
It uses 2 bellhousing bolts to mount, Ford did the same thing with stamped sheet metal. Mine works great.
Lonnie
The most rewarding job i ever had was being a dad.
1988 Ranger Build http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj31 ... %20RANGER/
1988 Ranger Build http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj31 ... %20RANGER/
-
blackagatha
- Posts: 2582
- Joined: March 10, 2007, 12:49 am
- Location: Arizona
edixon wrote:Also, would it be unadvisable to weld the broken piece back to the block over the hole where it is broken off?
YEAH I WOULD SAY SO.
I would not reccommend doing that.
Firstly, Cast Iron doesn't generally like to be welded on, although if you know what you're doing it MIGHT be ok
And you'll likely make it so that you can never put a new one in there if it doesnt work out.
I would try the easy out if you've got room to get a drill in there. If not, find a MIG welder and try to spot weld a chunk of say 1inch by 3/16 or so strap steel to the bolt, trying to avoid fouling the hole/ welding the bolt to the block.
'63 with 390 & lots of juice. But never enough. Always want more.






- 64 litl un
- Posts: 156
- Joined: October 9, 2006, 11:26 pm
- Location: Heart of Dixie
