getting the steering wheel off?

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OLYELLER
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Joined: October 1, 2007, 4:06 pm
Location: Mesa, Az

getting the steering wheel off?

Post by OLYELLER »

I just got some power steering stuff to fiddle with. I am just getting started and got the horn off. Does the steering wheel just slide off after the nut or what. It is stuck on if so, just didn't want to pry if there was a trick. Anyone with info, thx. It is a 3 tree column and not sur how it all comes apart. swapping to the floor shift column, built for PS. can't wait!
1965 F100 short bed, daily driver for 42yrs 1 million+ miles
statesblue
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Location: Chino Valley Az

Post by statesblue »

You need a steering wheel puller. If you dont have one you can get a loaner at auto zone or maybe one of your buddies has one.
cdherman
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Post by cdherman »

And be careful. The correct bolt is 5/16 FINE (18 TPI). that may or may not be included with the puller. The soft pot metal in the steering wheel is easily misthreaded (as I have learned from personal experince).
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'

1683

Planned/considered upgrades:
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Rosati
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Post by Rosati »

Loosen the nut on the shaft but do not remove it.
Place the puller jack screw in the center of the nut and install the two bolts into the holes on the steering wheel.
As you tighten the puller, it may pull right off or get real tight and finally pop off. That is why you should leave the nut on the shaft!
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OLYELLER
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Post by OLYELLER »

thx guys. hey CD putting your steering column to work finally. got it from you at ss. thx
1965 F100 short bed, daily driver for 42yrs 1 million+ miles
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6166 Junkyard Dog
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Post by 6166 Junkyard Dog »

we have a top notch puller just for this reason I don't have to worry about that nut just the nut doing it like me,
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Hawkrod
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Post by Hawkrod »

cdherman wrote:And be careful. The correct bolt is 5/16 FINE (18 TPI). that may or may not be included with the puller. The soft pot metal in the steering wheel is easily misthreaded (as I have learned from personal experince).


Just an FYI, Stock steering wheels do not have a potmetal center. It is steel. It is a soft alloy so you can easily mis-thread it so do be cautious. Hawkrod
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6166 Junkyard Dog
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Post by 6166 Junkyard Dog »

I agree with hawk can be easily stripped out and be sure get plenty of threads in there if not will pull threads out have done that before
Tom,
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Lazy FORD Ranch
Where Ford Trucks Rest in Peace

Dakota,,, RIP will never be the same looking for 61-66 trucks again ,, :cry: Kathy :cry:
Slickstock,,, York, PA
Slickstock,,, Kansas City, MO
Slickstock,,, Altoona, IOWA
Slickstock,,, Salina, KS

Now Cooper will try his best :lol: :lol:

12649

Cooper now has 2018 Slick Stock,, give him a fair star :lol:
Slickstock Kansas City, Mo
ICEMAN6166
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Post by ICEMAN6166 »

the fine thread bolts that hold the fan to the water pump are the correct thread for pulling the steering wheel. i have several different lengths of these i saved just for using with my puller.
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6166 Junkyard Dog
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Post by 6166 Junkyard Dog »

brian you read my mine on that
Tom,
@
Lazy FORD Ranch
Where Ford Trucks Rest in Peace

Dakota,,, RIP will never be the same looking for 61-66 trucks again ,, :cry: Kathy :cry:
Slickstock,,, York, PA
Slickstock,,, Kansas City, MO
Slickstock,,, Altoona, IOWA
Slickstock,,, Salina, KS

Now Cooper will try his best :lol: :lol:

12649

Cooper now has 2018 Slick Stock,, give him a fair star :lol:
Slickstock Kansas City, Mo
cdherman
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Post by cdherman »

steel or potmetal -- in any case, its soft so heed all the advice. If the bolt doesn't want to thread down nicely, consider chasing the threads with a 5/16 NF tap.
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'

1683

Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!
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6166 Junkyard Dog
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Post by 6166 Junkyard Dog »

I would also chase the threads or maybe turn the bolt so it has a point to start deeper in the threads if it don't want to start right away
Tom,
@
Lazy FORD Ranch
Where Ford Trucks Rest in Peace

Dakota,,, RIP will never be the same looking for 61-66 trucks again ,, :cry: Kathy :cry:
Slickstock,,, York, PA
Slickstock,,, Kansas City, MO
Slickstock,,, Altoona, IOWA
Slickstock,,, Salina, KS

Now Cooper will try his best :lol: :lol:

12649

Cooper now has 2018 Slick Stock,, give him a fair star :lol:
Slickstock Kansas City, Mo
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ezernut9mm
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Post by ezernut9mm »

i usually use my forehead to stop the wheel once it flys off. why didn't i think to leave the nut on?
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i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
OLYELLER
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Post by OLYELLER »

one more thing, does the column come out from the cab or the engine. I ask because it has the 3 speed gears on the bottom. bare with me while i try to figure these things out. thx
1965 F100 short bed, daily driver for 42yrs 1 million+ miles
cdherman
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Location: Parkville MO (KC)

Post by cdherman »

Comes out into the cab. But the seal on the inside of the firewall (under the firewall insulation, assuming you have some) can be pretty brittle and stuck.

Remove the clamp and firewall bracket on the engine bay side and unbolt the rag joint.

I very much destroyed my old firewall insulation when removing my column. With a LOT of care, perhaps you can save yours -- the aftermarket firewall insulation looks OK, IMHO, but its not original.....
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'

1683

Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!
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