Rust repair costs? How much...

[Leeroy]

Looking for a bit of guidance on some rust repairs, what is fair and roughly what seems reasonable cost wise.

Been searching for awhile and finally found a y-block uni that suits what I have been looking for and is within my budget price, but has usual rust problems for a unibody. Wondering what sort of $$ I would be looking at to have it replaced professionally, as I'm not in a postition to do this type of structual work myself.

Both steps need replacement, step and kick plate, drivers lower piller (below the door hinge) and the cab mounts. The mounts on the chassis looks pretty good but the cab mount on the body on both sides is non existant, there is actually holes for the entire section where the cab mount once resided.

Floor looks in ok shape (just) but from the holes where the cab mounts used to be and the state of the steps, I'm expecting to do the floorpans on both sides to do the job properly and clean up the few pinholes all round, front cab corners will need to be repalced as well.

The truck is located in Wilmington CA so I'd prefer to keep it close, but can transport it for the right shop.

Wanting to know what would be a fair-ish price nowadays for this type of work as it's been awhile since I've attempted this type of thing. I know the quality will have a lot of impact on the price, but just ideas would be great from anyone who's had this work done (or does it!)

I'd be looking to buy the weld in panels from carolina classics and have the welding work done.
Also can't seem to find anyone who makes the toeboards for uni's or is it just as simple as using some sheet stock?

Any opinions or suggestions would be great.

[DV65CustomCab]

Leeroy,
Don't let what follows be viewed as criticism. I'm more trying to save you from yourself.
First, it is impossible to estimate what rust repair will cost. Every truck is different. I know of no body shop that would quote an up front price...these jobs are always "time and material".
Body shop labor around me is running $46/hr for insurance work. Resto work may be priced higher. If I guesstimate doing just a step in the cab of a Uni I'd say it's a 3-4 hr job just to cut out and weld in the replacement. No painting included. To do the cab mounts, the body has to be pulled off the frame. There's a good 8-10 hours on/off before you even start cutting everything. Probably should be placed on a rotisserie to do it right. Do they make the parts? If not, fabrication time. Several hours for each side. And then hope the guy knows what he's doing. You'll wind up spending several thousand dollars just making the truck solid again. We haven't even touched the outer body and prepped it for painting. Painting (no prep) alone will run $1500 minimum for a good job, and that's on the low end of the scale.

So let's say you've spent $1200 for the truck. $1500 for paint, $1500 for prep, $3000 for welding and panels = $7200. You haven't touched the drivetrain or interior yet. You've dealt with body shops that haven't been excited about working on your truck, have taken 2 years to finish it and probably didn't do things quite the way you'd wished.

Or, you could buy a finished truck for...how much? And avoid all the headaches!

I'm not taking anything away from the process of restoration. It's very rewarding. But it really should be done by hobbyists who can do most of the work themselves. Even then, you will spend more than the truck will be worth when it's finished. Paying someone else to do everything is economically draining. Starting with a rusty truck is a very bad move. Even guys like my friend Charlie who are master welders will tell you not to bother with something that needs all the things you describe. Spend a little extra now and buy a good truck, instead of spending 6x as much over time. Reap the rewards of someone else's foolish efforts.

[jkimbrel65]

X2 My friend Dwight summed it up quite well.Again not trying to discourage.

[Greg D]

What Mike & Dwight said is absolutely dead on. I have a mildly rusty Uni. I can and am doing all my own rust repair and fabing up most of my own patches. Even considering it's mostly time I will still end up spending about $500 not including my bed floor - I have been at just the rust repair off & on for 2 years now.
If you can't do the repairs yourself look in the south/southwest for a REAL solid truck that you can do yourself. By the time you pay probably only about 20 - 30% more for the truck from a dry state and ship it or go get it you will still have spent only about 1/2 of the repair costs alone to a rusty truck.
You will not only be money ahead but you will have a much more enjoyable project. You will also be able to spend the money you save on upgrades etc. if this is the route you want to go.
Here are a couple of potential candidates.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-F-1 ... sQ5fTrucks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-F-1 ... sQ5fTrucks

[ICEMAN6166]

i agree with the above posts.

spent 3 hours just cutting out some pieces from the bed floor of a uni, cursed spot welds were a royal pita. (no i dont have the special drill for removing them)

[rwhistles]

Like everyone else has said. Buy a rust free as possible truck to start with. strart checking craigs list. start with your home state every city listed and expand out from there. you will be amazed at what you will find but it can take hours to do. I almost guarantee you will find a truck in good shape pretty darn cheap. I did, Happy hunting. robert

[don luster]

I know where a unibody is in Missouri south central and the price is 700 dollars. It has no hood and looks to be almost rust free. No engine or trans plus it has bucket seats installed. Let me know and I will get the wrecking yard phone number for you. Don Luster

[Leeroy]

Thanks all for the replies,

Just say DV65CustomCab + jkimbrel65 not discouraged at all by your postings, that was the sort of solid info I was looking for. I should have changed the subject title becuase I wasn't looking for a $$ how much out of pocket value, more the work that is involved with this type of repair on a uni.

I've replaced small patch panels on mustangs before and had a floor of an mgb professionally replaced so I knew what I was up for, but I didn't know the whole cab needed to be removed for cab mounts etc, so this has been a great help guys and at least I now have a very rough idea at peoples own experiences at whats involved when attempting the job yourself.

I'm actually located in Australia, but I have some friends in Wilmington who can help me ship etc back to Aus, but it makes my ability to look a whole lot more difficult!

Thanks all for the replies, looks like its back to scouring the slick 60's/ebay/craiglist pages!

[Greg D]

Wow, 2 members in OZ!
I am sure Alan will post here too. Dang a genuine aussy chapter now, Alan is a great guy! (just watch out for his toes)
If you have a truck in mind down there you may be $ ahead just fixing it. Considering the shipping costs I would lay my hands on the cleanest rig I could get if it's coming from up here.
BTW, Welcome to Slick 60s.

[65f100_Thug]

Well as most of the post I read, would be fine without my comment.I am trying to become more of a lurker,.....but ,I too agree with the other post.Ive done my own work Including rebuilding my engine swapping transmissions and exhaust ,brakes, tires and interior and now in the middle of this crazy self created Frankenstein dodge Dakota clip deal and I'm in for about 5,000 and I got the truck for 300.00, 3 miles from my house. its not even painted yet. I admire what some of these guys are doing in the war against rust and Obviously I am the kind of guy who don't mind some serious work and fabing to save a buck or two and have bragging rights to My own creation so to speak. From where I sit Paying to have any body work done will put you
In a hole quick+not seeing your slick like forever.

[Anthony]

I agree with the "buying it done is cheaper than building it yourself" theory. But... If your like me you can't afford 5 grand up front but 100 bucks a pop is more do-able. I gave 700 for the first slick for the running gear and 300 for the second slick which I am using 98% of the body. I have had to purchase floor pans, cab mounts, lower hinge panels, sheet metal stock for the cowl, fiberglass to repair what I couldn't get to to weld, and that is just the start. I figure I am pushing 3500 or more and still haven't got to cab corners, brakes, fuel lines, tires, or bodywork and paint. for what I could have purchased for around 5 grand I figure I will have between 7 and 8 grand in mine when complete. On the plus side I am doing it all myself and I enjoy the time in the garage. when this one is done there will be another project go into the garage so I can continue to tinker. I guess what I am trying to say is that If you can afford to buy the better truck, do it. If you can only afford one that has rust issues to be fixed, buy it and plan on time and money spent on a project well worth saving. just my ... Anthony

[charliemccraney]

You don't have to remove the cab to replace the mounts. You will have to loosen all of the body to frame bolts , steering column, clutch linkage, and whatever else I'm forgetting and jack the body up some.

Have a look here to get an idea what you will be in for.

http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o214 ... %20Repair/

[DV65CustomCab]

I knew someone would say that.
No, you don't HAVE to remove it from the frame, but I think most commercial shops that the OP would be taking it to would say they would have to, and it really is the easier way to work on it. When you're paying someone else to do it for you, you should plan on the most expensive way of getting the job done.

[Johnny Canuck]

If I was gonna pay the kind of shipping that it would take to get that thing to Oz, I would be looking for something bloody near mint as far as rust goes, mate.
The top one on Greg's first post looks promising, but southern California is a genuine gold mine for rust free vehicles.
Your buddies up there merely need to look around a bit for you.
I have watched short unis rust free go on Ebay out of Southern California, for ridiculously low prices in the past.
It would be my starting place to look, especially if you have friends to use for eyes there.

Oh and welcome to the club BTW! I am sure Mac will be glad to have a second Aussie aboard!

[Blackwaterforge]

A project also has a way of growing on you.

[Leeroy]

Thanks for all the opinions/suggestions guys, it really has been helpful.

Just another question, location? Most people say buy something from south, southwest because of the climate/rust concerns.
I already own a 65 mustang that came from LA and apart from a few very small pieces (size of a dime) is rust free. So I know how good they CAN be from that part of the country.

Whilst I am asking for everyones opinion, I may as well ask again....
North?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rare-196 ... 500wt_1718

Or do I avoid at all costs?

I really wasn't looking for something quite that 'refurbished' but it definately has the engine/trans/colour combo I like, so obviously is a little less for me to change.
One thing that I have wondered is the paint looks a little too new....

[DV65CustomCab]

Michigan? I'd be terrified without having someone look at it for you who knows these trucks.

The desert states are the best, west coast or mountain states like Colorado coming up next. Anything from the middle of the country east begins to get humidity issues and after that anything from the northeastern corner of the country (I mean middle towards the east and above the "Mason-Dixon" line) is going to be ROAD SALT country. Southeast trucks can sometimes be really dry but the humidity is still an issue. Moisture likes to cling to the backsides of unpainted panels or get trapped under rubber floor mats or caught in mud sticking to the underside.

It's not impossible to find a nice truck in, say, Michigan. These things did migrate around throughout their lives or the occasional fanatical owner may have kept it indoors during the "salt season" but it's extremely rare.

[a075923]

Have you found one to ship back?

Mike

[medic579]

you can find rusty trucks in the south to. i just recently bought mine it had been in florida for 35 years but al that salt from its early life is apparent now the reason i went ahead with purchase is my father in law owns a commercial sand blasting buisness. if you need rust repair he says to find a sandblaster let them blast and prime then take to body shop for repairs if you cant do it yourself. body shop will charge you extra for headache of sending it to a blaster. its expensive so if you dont have a sandblaster in your family just try and buy a rust free truck.

[1961 slickwilly]

you can look at my post in the project and builds section under 61 unibody i've got almost 2500 in mine only paid 800 for the truck and have been doing all the work myself if you can do the work do it but if you cant or just dont want to i'd follow the great advice above buy a finished uni or a good solid one theres one in my town he's wanting 2800 for already has a 302 in it but it needs floor pans and a tail gate body looks to be straight