Slick 60's

Will the new 14 3/4" wheel tub put you inside the frame rail? I'm just asking because if you trim another inch or so off the new wheel house you wouldn't have to mess with fabbing up the groove transition....

No, not really. We are adding only 4 3/4 to the existing tub. We will have to remove an additional 2 1/4 from the support in the picture below. Shown is 2 1/2" cut marks and an additional 2 1/4 to the left and you still have the tubs outside the frame rail.

Got some goodies from Craigslist. I got a custom dash. Seems very good condition. Probably going to get a DC repop bezel.
Also scored a set of floor trim pieces. Got them both for $50.00

The Bed continues
Went to the steel yard and purchased a 14 gauge steel sheet for the bed front panel and some heavy wall tubing for the bed framing. First order is to removed all the spot welds. I am looking at the construction of the panel. My plan was to cut the panel on the black line and remove the spot welds. I may just remove the top tube and replace it with a thin wall 2x2 tube and spot weld the panel from behind. Looks like less work and a cleaner job anyway.

I missed this thread until today. Looks good, keep it up.

just read through the the whole thread so far. looking good. i'm over in the hickory area and just picked up a 62 uni. plan is to put a jag ifs and probably irs in it(may go with tbird irs kinda in the air on that one. i work at Rutter's Rod Shop over here in hickory but don't have the $ to put big time suspension in it(and i know the jag swap pretty well). well that and i'm just the poor parts sales guy hahahaha.

i think i'm gonna notch mine into the frame to get as low as possible right off the bat.the bottom spring spacer trick is god for 1-2" depending on how thick of a spacer you make. Eaton will make up a set of new springs with the spring rate and height you want. your clip coming from a v12 is already on the high end of things. most guys use the xj6 springs if using stockers....ken....

Nice fab work Tony

luckystiff wrote: think i'm gonna notch mine into the frame to get as low as possible right off the bat.

Just remember that your 62 has a different frame height than mine. There is a JAG IFS build on here with an earlier f100 with the straight axle. The issue will be oil pan/rack clearance if you keep the engine in the stock location. I just PM'd you on a steering column.

keep up the good work..
i mini tubed it as well but i took a different approach since i need more clearance for wheels..

someone asked if the 67 and up tubs where the same. answer is no.. I had an extra set of tubs from a 71 f100.. i cut one of them up to wided the one on my 64 and they where different.

i used a combination of 1x1 angle/1x1 and 1x2 square tubing.
i threw a plywood sheet on top and added some stripes of 1.25"x.125" thick flat bar to simulate planks..its not the best approach but it will do for now.. still need to finish up the trim details and stain it..

eddieschopshop...Looks like you are going way down! Great work!

Just some progress pics on the bed. I braced the top with square tubing. I stopped at my steel supplier and got a stick of 2x2 x.065 tubing for the front support rail. I cut the front panel out. The stock front bed rail piece is held in with tabs that go inside the stake pocket and spot welded down the front. I dry fitted the steel first





I removed the 2x2 tube and finished cleaning the spot welds so I can re-weld from the inside.

this is a duplicate post

The top tube is not flush with the front bed panel so I notched it so It would fit flush.







I drilled hole to plug weld the front panel. The top was welded from the outside. The left and right was welded from inside. The bottom was plug welded from outside







I removed all the floor pieces. I measured up 2 inches and scribed lines all around. I then cut the square tubing and tack welded them in to establish a perimeter frame.

Doing great work, keep it up!

This has been a pretty productive day. I tacked in the tubing around the perimeter 2" up from the bottom lip. Then I cut pieces for the front and rear tubs. The frame rails measure 19 1/4 " in from the side so I put forward and rear braces in with that in mind offsetting them so not to be directly over the mount location. When the tubs are welded in I will cut pieces along them. I failed to mention that the tubing is schedule 40 square stock.









Finished welding the tube bottoms and stitch welded some of the side panels too .

Working on several things at one time. Looking at mocking up a Vintage Air unit. This dash is wayyy more shallow than I thought it was. Looks like the Gen II Compac will fit nicely. I was hoping to get the Gen IV But unless the passenger wants a foot rest that will not happen. Got my Mustang tank coming this week so that will be exciting.
I am glad for my little A/C unit in my garage. The humidity is unbearable outside this week!.

I worked some more on the bed putting on the right wheel tub, and setting the bed roughly on the frame. Closer to driving this thing.

Looking good over there . I also have a portable AC unit in my shop and dontthink I could stand it out here without it . The problem right now is my donor is in the driveway in the heat and rain LOL.


Rick

Great build pictures. I just purchased a 66, SWB same color as yours, light blue. Are you doing a V8 swap?

Woops, I just read the page with the V8 swap. Good detailed pictures.

So I drilled out the last crossmember and welded it in the rear to accept the mustang tank conversion. I lowered the bed down and I will hit the repositioned crossmember with the rear crossmember of the bed. I guess I have been reading mustang tank installs on stepside beds because there is no way this is going to clear. Anyone do a 1970 mustang tank on a style side bed out there?

Skip, who was one of the first to fully document the early ('65/68) Mustang tank conversions, did it initially on a Styleside truck, which was originally a Flareside; (and is once again a Flareside). I can't picture where your interference is; I have an upside-down bed (Skip's old one) at the shop, so I can easily examine it next trip. If you can post pictures of the point(s) of interference, we may be better able to diagnose what has changed. My behind-the-axle crossmember is going to be relocated in order to set the Mark VIII IRS lower. This will preclude use of the Mustang or other similar-sized tanks, not because of bed interference, but from lack of space behind the relocated crossmember.
Paul

Nice looking project! Will be following along to see the rest of the build.