Slick 60's

went to the cruise in at the local church on
Saturday/

Took the truck for a bunch of little trips around town. you can see the steering wheel is cocked to the left-



Took it to Ford to do the alignment. nice and straight now.


Best it will be without bending up the straight axle.


Nice and tight now.

I spent some money (not spent on port calls in Australia or Fiji etc) on the speedway disc brake set up. I originally didnt intend to do this mod, but after driving around town a bit, people here are stupid and i had to slam on my brakes a few times to avoid a collision. Put stick shift and drum brakes back on every car and we wouldnt be having texting and driving or people riding your bumper as much.
I bought the front disc brakes, a 9" rear bolt on set, a booster and a 1 1/8 bore dual master cylinder.

Anyway,
I started the other day, and ran into a few problems, but were solved with a little time and a few dollars.





removed old front brakes and backing plate.
Installed the bolt on bracket. Had to enlarge the spindle bolt holes ever so much with a drill bit. It even says to do this in the instructions.


Use the long bolts in the bottom two holes, and shorter bolts in the top. be sure to put the spacers in.


The kit supplied the outter race that needed to be replaced. the one already installed needs to be popped out and replaced. (instructions also state this)


my original 15" innie wheels do not fit over the hub. I had to add a spacer and added longer studs. the studs I put on i got from Summit. 1/2x20x3" with a .625 knurl. The local parts houses are stuck on "what vehicle is this on" and don't understand. Just save yourself the hassle and buy it online.


Caliper has a nub in the casting that has to be ground off to clear the spindle bolt that holds the bracket on.



Once you mount the caliper, you need to check movement, and adjust the stopper bolt.


mine is seized and I had to hit it with a torch, a bunch of wrenches and hammer it. F- its feelings!



adjusted


everything clears.


mounted tire, and with longer studs and spacer, it still clears the hub cap.


Repeat on the other side.

Hook up the brake hoses. I am working on the rear now.

Looks good April. It's always good to be a little safer.

Are you going with a power brake master cylinder?

grump wrote: ↑May 4, 2024, 7:35 pm Are you going with a power brake master cylinder?

yes. I bought one. Haven't installed yet. Forecast called for rain all day, by 2 it still hadnt rained so i fee like i wasted my entire day. so I went out and took a look at adding a trailer hitch. But wait- there's more!

Knocked myself in the face with a C clamp this afternoon mocking up my tow hitch. gave myself a black eye.

OUCH!!

Sorry to hear about the black eye!!! But the brake work looks great and you won't regret doing this upgrade. I never was crazy about the single acting wheel cylinders on mine just driving it around in the yard. Glad you are getting some time to enjoy your truck, been alot of work to get where you are

Have had nothing but issues trying to get a good pedal with the booster. Engine off... good pedal. Turn engine on, it's under vacuum, immediate loss of pedal so I am gonna pull it again and re bleed the master cylinder but keep the booster off and see what happens.

Sorry to hear about the brake issues. A couple questions for you: When you say you have a good pedal with the engine off, do you mean the pedal is firm and high off the floor? If so, that is common with a vacuum booster after a few pedal pushes. Are you getting fluid at all four wheels bleeding with the engine off? If you bench bled the mc, you shouldn't need to do that again. I can't recall if you did the rear disc conversion or not. If you bought a master cylinder & proportioning valve combo, just a heads up when bleeding. Most of these "kits" use a Corvette-style master and generic GM proportioning valve which will lockup on you and shut off the rear brake circuit. The valve will have to be manually reset and they sell a bleeding tool that screws in place of the warning light, keeps the valve from shifting. I know this has turned into a shotgun reply, but be sure the pushrod between the booster and master is the correct length.

I pulled the vacuum booster and put the master cylinder back in. bled all brakes again and this time I had good brakes all around.
Should I leave that prop valve tool in place? I put that switch back on, but I dont have anything attached to it as I use an electric switch for the brake lights on the pedal itself.

I did do the disc brakes on the rear as well.

The tool is just to be used for "maintenance" of the system. You were correct to remove it and reinstall the switch. I have nothing wired to mine either, it is used as a warning light in case of a loss of fluid in one of the circuits.
Good to hear you had success and have brakes all around. Hopefully it all works with the booster back in place!

put a small light in or on your dash so you will be warned if front or rear fails.Tie it into key on power.

I removed the booster completely and just put the master cylinder back on, bled it and moved on.
I suspect I had a problem with that booster. All roads in troubleshooting returned to it.
Just disc brakes all around with a dual master cylinder and a prop valve. Thats all in the system now- no booster.

Took shipwrecked to the cruise in on Saturday.
lots of folks were very interested in it. As one person said, they never seen one of this age before.

She drove straight and true and stopped on a dime.

Looks really nice!

Good to see you get to the enjoyment stage with the truck.


Ps. sent ya an email about M38's. I have questions.

FarmMotorSports wrote: ↑August 28, 2024, 10:20 pm Good to see you get to the enjoyment stage with the truck.


Ps. sent ya an email about M38's. I have questions.

You did? i didnt see it. CoastieReid@gmail.com

No big deal, Seller killed his own sale. Asked a primo price for his parts jeep, and had no time for questions.... Take it or leave it! So I left it...

ahh. yeah sometimes people do that to try and get you to buy a piece of shit at an inflated price. artificial urgency to purchase.

I like how you made the kit and stock wheels fit. I never did like how the front axles were wider than the rear. While playing with gear ratios I put a 1974 Dana 70 from an F-350 on my 1965 F-250 fleet side. The perches are in the same location but is 3" wider that the Dana 60 that came in it. I can still change the tire.