Slick 60's

Just learned something new! Went out to the yards again today and grabbed a bunch of stuff and I needed an oil pan for a 460 going into a 67 because the one I have has a hole in it (pick and pull punches them now!). I have had several of what I thought were truck pans that were like the one I posted pictures of up above but the trucks I took the pans off of have the drain plug in the center of the rear of the sump and sump is longer than the other pans I have. I got curious and looked it up and it turns out that the rear drain plug is the truck pan and the one with the plug on the corner is a car one that is sold as fitting trucks. I have never actually noticed this before because I have always had the ones with the corner drain. I will post pics as soon as I get them cleaned up. Hawkrod

Man.. That's the pan I needed.. Oh well, I'll stick with this one since my return policy is past due..lol. Maybe down the road I can change it.

Hawkrod, since you're one who has a 460 two quick questions: Did you leave the 2nd crossmember that dips down attached to the radius arms in place with the bolts or remove it completely?

The 3rd crossmember needs to move back. I can't seem to find the piece that attaches the tranny to it. Do you have a pic or did you use one off of the old crossmember if there was one? I don't even know what it looks like.

Thanks

You will need to remove the 2nd crossmember to R&R the transmission from underneath with the cab in place. Grind off the rivet heads and replace them with Grade 8 bolts while you have the truck apart, and it will save you the trouble of having to do it later.
That 2nd crossmember is necessary to keep the frame from racking or twisting due to axle stressors, so be sure to reinstall it before you put the truck back on the road.
The transmission mount is a single rubber piece with an integral steel bracket. It bolts right up to the factory transmission crossmember.

Thanks for the reply Banjo. I already removed the rivets and had bolts for the crossmember, I just didn't know if I had to keep it on there. Thanks for clarifying.

The little bracket is what I don't have, or don't know if I ever had one. Can I get this at a parts store or do I have to find it off a donor?

The "bracket" is part of the mount, molded into it.

That's what I don't have.. or can't find..

Ask for a transmission mount for a '76 F-150 with a 460 at any of the parts stores.
It will come complete.
Check out Advance's web site, and search for the mount. The picture will make it clear!

Banjo- Does this mount look correct? I thought it would have some type of rubber or urethane?

Yep looks like the correct one

Mike

Mike said it - that is correct! There is rubber between the upper and lower sections, it just doesn't show well.

Sweet... Thanks Guys

Another minor detail, that is not the complete mount. It will work but there is supposed to be a steel strap that bolts around the rubber on the bottom and mounts using the two holes into the tailshaft. The problem is that oil and slime glues them to the old mount and when it is removed it gets thrown away and the new mounts do not come with them. I have started pulling them to sell but it isn't worth the effort for the time it takes to get them out. Also note that the strap is different for different applications (although intuition says they should be the same!). It is item number 6054 in the picture below and it looks larger in the drawing than it really is! Hawkrod

Can you guys tell me if I get a 2166 Edelbrock Performer, do I need the EGR or non-EGR? The motor is out of a 78 LTD 460 w/c6.

Thanks

The EGR/Non-EGR to the type of carb system in use such as if you plan to use an original carb, or a spacer/adapter which has the EGR port built in. . If you plan to run an aftermarket carb such as a Holley or Edelbrock, you will be best off to get a non-egr intake, and use a non-egr carb. Much easier to trouble shoot.
Unless, of course you live in places such as the Republik of Kalifornia.

Thanks Banjo.. I am intending on getting an aftermarket carb so I will probably go with the non-EGR..

Thanks again for all the help

Santi, don't get any carb larger than 600 CFM, unless you plan to drag or race or mud or want the wow factor.
I started with a 750 CFM, and although it ran well and gave me lots of power, it ran rich.
Changed over to a 600, and mileage went up and power stayed the same for regular truck type duties. I can tell it doesn't quite have the same ooomph at WOT, but I don't anticipate ever needing to tun that high.
My 460 has an "RV" type cam in it, and has straight up camshaft timing, using a Cloyes double roller set.

banjopicker66 wrote:Santi, don't get any carb larger than 600 CFM, unless you plan to drag or race or mud or want the wow factor.
I started with a 750 CFM, and although it ran well and gave me lots of power, it ran rich.
Changed over to a 600, and mileage went up and power stayed the same for regular truck type duties. I can tell it doesn't quite have the same ooomph at WOT, but I don't anticipate ever needing to tun that high.
My 460 has an "RV" type cam in it, and has straight up camshaft timing, using a Cloyes double roller set.

x2.

The smaller carb will work fine but so will a 750 cfm with just a bit samller primary jets. Personally I like the bigger carb (have used both). That bracket 6054 is important and you should find an use one. It is insurance incase the rubber fails.

Ok so I guess I misread the diagram and thought that bracket (6054) went below the crossmember. After William wrote the last message I then looked at it again and realized I was wrong. I drilled holes in the crossmember and was going to run bolts through the crossmember and brace the tranny. Will that work with out the bracket or not a good idea?

You can see the hole in the pic below.

You need some type of rubber mount between the trans mount and the crossmember or else you will snap off the tailhousing of the transmission when the engine torques over.