Oh man, I need help

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » April 20, 2011, 3:27 pm

Rusted64 wrote:that is a pretty cool site, that can search all of craigslist. Thanks,

And can be very dangerous (expensive) cause you can find stuff all over the country that you thought you needed.

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » April 20, 2011, 4:55 pm

Jason.
I just sent you a coded spy message about where my honey hole is.
Only Max and Tom and I know where it is.
He will have your Y-block.
BUT, if you ever divulge the location to anyone, anywhere, anytime, we will have to kill you and tell God you died.

U@ss

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » April 20, 2011, 5:46 pm

I just Googled " Honey Hole!", and I didn't see no Y block!

unibody madness · Post by **unibody madness** » April 20, 2011, 5:49 pm

ME, ME, tell ME

See what happens when you are at a site that has real people wanting to help others?
Great job Uncle Skip!
I think it's great that you decided to stick with the 292,and don't forget there are a lot of parts that may not be busticated on the old one that you can still use. Don't forget to start scrounging T-5 parts for the install!!!!

Allen its a different kind of honey Bears don't like it

Its a shame texas is so far away
John

Gatkpartz6179 · Post by **Gatkpartz6179** » April 21, 2011, 5:12 pm

I have a couple yblocks complete just sitting.Atl,Ga...I would let one go for nothing until it was tested,then bad or good,I would want scrap value ,@12.50 a hundredweight.I can arrange shippin /cratin on a pallet to go as truck freight but....

Post by **Greg D** » April 21, 2011, 6:00 pm

The Big M wrote:Agreed, but Is the extra torque solely a function of the roller cam, or is it also related to the EFI? I was under the impression that the sequential EFI helped increase torque due to the long-runner intake manifold. Just curious because I have the standard output version (Grand Marquis/Crown Vic) but with a factory roller cam.

The EFI helped but the carbed roller 5.0 in the 5 speed 85 Mustangs was comparable - a tad less but in the range.
On an odd note, the carbed 1985 Mustang had a touch less torque but a touch more horsepower than the same engine with EFI in the 1986 Mustang.
Soem of the numbers are due to the roller cam, some to the HO heads, some to the factory headers. There are other things of course that added in but those pieces are the main players.
The 5.0 in my 64 is essentially a 93 5.0 converted to a 85 5.0 and long tube headers - I should be right around the 93's numbers because of the improved exhaust.

Rusted 64,
your mention of the word Budget was why I said 5.0. You should be able to install a good used running engine & T-5 for around $450 - $500, that's turnkey - mounting, exhaust, etc. You will need different headers or manifolds - the Mustang shorty's will hit the steering box. Depending on what you would want for specific parts it could cost a little more too.

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » April 21, 2011, 6:06 pm

Pete.
That is a very fair offer.
If the guy I know doesn't have one, I'll talk with Jason and see what he wants to do.
Want to send me your e-mail address. I think I have it but just to make sure.
Skipper

Rusted64 · Post by **Rusted64** » April 21, 2011, 7:47 pm

Gatkpartz6179 wrote:I have a couple yblocks complete just sitting.Atl,Ga...I would let one go for nothing until it was tested,then bad or good,I would want scrap value ,@12.50 a hundredweight.I can arrange shippin /cratin on a pallet to go as truck freight but....

Awesome, that sounds great.

I have a couple leads here right now, but I will definitely get with you if they dont pan out.

I am curious though, what do you mean by "complete".

Thanks,

Rusted64 · Post by **Rusted64** » April 21, 2011, 8:01 pm

Rusted 64,
your mention of the word Budget was why I said 5.0. You should be able to install a good used running engine & T-5 for around $450 - $500, that's turnkey - mounting, exhaust, etc. You will need different headers or manifolds - the Mustang shorty's will hit the steering box. Depending on what you would want for specific parts it could cost a little more too.

450-500 does sound pretty good. I know you say turn key, but does that include adding motor mounts, making linkage work for the trans, drive line, etc?

I know that budgets change when working on classics, but I do have one that I would like to stick close to. 300 here, and 400 there can add up quick.

I will weigh my options, but that is definitely an option.

Thank,

Post by **Greg D** » April 21, 2011, 9:03 pm

If you figure you get an engine for 2-300, that gives you another 200 to get it in - I fab stuff though instead of buy it.
AOD is the easiest option by far - no "inventing" clutch linkage.
You can make your own mounts - 80 or so bucks including the insulators.
Aerostar floor shifter from a junkyard would hook to the AOD.
$100 bucks for pipes & a pair of Cherry Bombs.
Like I said - depends on what you use.

Moose · Post by **Moose** » April 22, 2011, 8:25 am

First part of last year I built a new engine for my daily driver. Picked up a reman short block from Precision in Houston for $600 (93 Mustang roller motor.) And picked up a set of GT40 heads from a 94 cobra for $200.

All total including the machine work on the heads I had $800 in the motor. (not including the gaskets, and extra add ons I had sitting around already.

It can be done on a budget, you just have to scrounge. Give me a shout, I am just east of Houston, out in Dayton.

Mellvis · Post by **Mellvis** » April 22, 2011, 2:20 pm

I really like my 352/3 speed combo. Lots of low end torque, and I bought it COMPLETE minus carb, distributor and exhaust manifolds for $150. Put a used Holley on at $50 and a new clutch disk for $25. With a 3.50 gear I figure I'm getting about 15 mpg for everyday driving. In my area (Ohio) you can buy engine and trany to drop in for about $250. Get your engine stands and maybe a drive shaft and bolt it together.

Rusted64 · Post by **Rusted64** » April 22, 2011, 10:50 pm

Great news, I may have found my savior for a block.

Will posible get it tomorrow and have have it checked out next week.

Rusted64 · Post by **Rusted64** » April 22, 2011, 10:57 pm

Moose wrote:First part of last year I built a new engine for my daily driver. Picked up a reman short block from Precision in Houston for $600 (93 Mustang roller motor.) And picked up a set of GT40 heads from a 94 cobra for $200.

All total including the machine work on the heads I had $800 in the motor. (not including the gaskets, and extra add ons I had sitting around already.

It can be done on a budget, you just have to scrounge. Give me a shout, I am just east of Houston, out in Dayton.

That doesnt sound too bad really.

Sounds like a good option if needed.

Thank you all for the great information.

bobenhotep · Post by **bobenhotep** » April 23, 2011, 8:01 pm

i ditched my 223 and got a 300. got tired of looking up museums to get parts. id vote for a 300, and a manual trans. but that is just me.

Oh man, I need help

292

Re: 292