Clutch equalizer parts

charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » July 3, 2010, 10:54 pm

This one is NOS. I go it from a truck place in Iowa. It was their last one.
Another Ford Dealer in Sumter, SC have one. Dennis carpenter have several. Mine was $109. The one in Sumter is $115. DC wants $230.
They are no longer available from Ford and as of recently, they seem impossible to find rebuilt.

charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » July 4, 2010, 7:34 pm

Alright, well I go nowhere near finished today due to technical difficulties but I got a lot done.

I cut the clutch rod bracket off of my donor clutch pedal.

I ground the weld out of the hole that I think is for the clutch pushrod. And because I like to live dangerously, I went ahead and painted the pedal before checking that it will work as is.

Just FYI. The clutch pushrod I have is longer than both brake pushrods I have but the hardware seems to be the same.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » July 4, 2010, 8:14 pm

Charlie looks like you are gain9ing ground on the project

can you measure the long rod in your pic as i have a brake rod from a 66 T850 truck that is longer than the f100/250 single mc rod and would like to know if it would work .

regardless if i do conversions on mine or not i find it good to know how they are done and what parts used.

charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » July 5, 2010, 6:00 pm

Guys, I'm putting this project on the back burner.

Today, I discovered that when the master cylinder is mounted, the cap cannot be removed. I can get the cap loose from the cylinder but there is not enough room to wiggle it out of the way. I also discovered that the mounting holes in the mc and those in the firewall are a hair off. So either my truck has a defect, the mc has a defect, or it just was never intended to mount. All of this can be solved with grinding but I like to try to avoid that. This project has already put me 3 weeks behind for the things I want to get done this year so I'll continue with it when I have time.
In the mean time, I've reinstalled the "repaired" equalizer with the 2 bushings I found at the salvage yard installed on the bad side. I'll look for another equalizer and only drive it when necessary until a good one is found.

Were there ever any flat lids for these types of master cylinders? The cap is just too tall.

Obsa · Post by **Obsa** » July 5, 2010, 6:34 pm

Charlie,
From the pics it looks like the master cyl. top is plastic is it the same size as a brake master cyl. The three mcs I have seen had metal caps that wern't as tall.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » July 5, 2010, 7:28 pm

the plastic lid is taller.

.also according to the parts/accessories manual, you have C1TT-7A542-A which is for
T700,750,800,850,950 conventional cab tandem axle
F750,800,850.950,100,100 conventional cab
B750 bus

there is also a C1TT-7A542 -B
for
P-350,400,500

there are also 3 others listed for tilt cabs.

no mention of bolt pattern.

charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » July 9, 2010, 10:11 pm

I found out that a friend was at the salvage yard today so I got him to pull some things for me.

On the clutch equalizer front, he pulled 2 from solid axle trucks, both identical, and both completely different than mine. They have a curve to them. He says it looks like they are like that to clear the column. He said both trucks had V8s but they weren't Y Blocks. They looks a lot like the 70s equalizers I saw last weekend at the Pull A Part just up the road. Transplants??
He said he saw one that looked more like mine in a twin I truck of our generation. He's going to pull that one tomorrow.

On the hydraulic front, a dump truck at the same salvage yard had hydraulic hardware so he pulled the master cylinder with a metal cap, the clutch pedal, and push rod. So now I have hydraulic components that came off of something originally equipped with it and that will definitely help in determining that the parts I already have are correct. By the way, at a glance, it looks like the pedals are pretty much the same. The hydraulic pedal does not have the bracket for the linkage rod. The pushrod is fastened to the upper hole and the lower hole has a hook for the return spring, much like that on the brake pedal.

Brian, I'll measure the push rods, probably tomorrow night.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » July 9, 2010, 10:36 pm

he is correct about the curve. the 4x4, f350, f500 have a different gearbox and mounting.

i would also mention that different equalizers have different length pedal rods. there are also different length adjustment rods. it is possible to mix them so long as you get the correct travel and do not hit the frame.

got to thinking about this after looking at the towtruck earlier.
72 highboy frame
65 f350 cab
61 f250 pedals
65 f350 equalizer
72 adjustment rod
390 engine/np 435 trans
dont remember which pedal rod i used.
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charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » July 11, 2010, 4:55 pm

Brian,
The brake push rod I have is about 5" overall.
The clutch pushrod I removed from an F100 which had been fitted with a hydraulic clutch is about 5 11/16" overall.
The one I acquired a few days ago is different than both but has been shortened so it is of no help. It makes me wonder if the master cylinder I got at the same time is a clutch mc.

charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » August 9, 2010, 2:26 pm

Thanks to Pete, I acquired and excellent condition used one. It had the typical wear on the pushrod dowl. I filled it. Other than that, it didn't really need much more than paint. I acquired a set of the bronze bushings for the pivot from a local salvage yard and I got some new clutch rod bushing. I don't have any of the felt washer. So functionally, I think it'll be like new. I'll make some new felt washers and I may make a bushing for the pushrod. I don't understand why ford put bushings everywhere else but there. Even the newer equalizers I had pulled have the same type of wear in that area.