Slick 60's

Got a new 195 thermostat today. Took out the old one and it was a 195. Either seems the dash gauge is bad or the sending unit is bad. or maybe the sending unit is a 74 and the dash gauge is a 64 which may mean there is a voltage differential. Could change the sending unit to a 64 and see what happens.

Got my used 390 CFM Holley carb yesterday. Took of the 750 CFM Holley and put in the 390 CFM.. Hoping no leaks and it would run OK. Sadly, the front float bowl overflowed out the vent tube, so a rebuild kit has been ordered. Maybe early next week, it will be up and running with the new carb!!!!!

While waiting for the carb rebuild kit, I used a pair of long nose vise grips and clamped off the fuel line and it started up and ran pretty good until the fuel in the carb ran out. Did this 3-4 times hoping the float might get unstuck. No luv!!! Hate waiting for parts.

Try mixing some marvel mystery oil in with your gas
Let bowl fill & let sit over night
Might " unstick " sticky parts
My

I did try some Sea Foam, but still no luv. I expect there is some sort of foreign matter in the needle and seat. Carb kit arrives tomorrow. Gonna do a complete disassembly, soak in a bucket of carb cleaner for a couple of hours, do a gas rinse and clear all passages with some air and reassemble. I did learn years ago that if you use Vaseline on the gaskets they will not stick to the carb upon disassembly later. Also going to install a new inline fuel filter. Gotta see what size the main jets are anyway. Need to go down two sizes from stock for my 4,000 ft. elevation.

Put in a rebuild kit on the Holley 390 cfm carb today. Fired it up and ran good until it warmed up and the choke opened. Putting my hand over the top of the carb made it run much smoother. Clearly have a vacuum leak.

Taking the missus to Casper for some trigger finger surgery tomorrow morning so won't get a chance to find the vacuum leak until tomorrow afternoon. I'll get out my gasoline spray can and start testing around the carb mounts, throttle plate shafts and vacuum lines to see where the leak is.

Should be an easy fix if it is not the throttle plate shafts. They do seem to have some play in them. Also gonna adjust the secondary throttle plates to makes sure they are closed at idle. They look to be slightly open to me. Wished I had seen that when I was putting in the rebuild kit.

Also plan to replace the thin stock carb to manifold gasket with a thicker one. Gonna do a spray test around the carb base first to see if it is the problem. But still gonna replace the gasket anyway since I have to pull the carb to do the secondary throttle plate adjustment.

After 3-4 days of messing with the Holley 390 cfm carb I gave up and out on the old Holley750 cfm carb. Fired it up and got it warmed up, set the idle screws to max vacuum, while resetting the idle speed. Runs very well. So much for my idea of using a 390 cfm carb on a 390ci engine.

Now back to anti rattle window kits, tailgate latch work, bucket seats, heater motor rebuild, wiper motor rebuild and no doubt 10 other things that come along.

At least it runs real well now and I can use it when the snow hits!!!!

The Holley 750 sucks way too much gas. Looking at a Autolite 4 bbl 4300. It is a 600 cfm carb. The carb tag says DOSF A and B9G 29. Not sure what the last numbers mean. Anyone out there have any comments on this carb? Also anyone know what the stock primary jet size if for this carb? I have a square bore intake and I have an adapter for spread bore to square bore. I am hoping this carb may be more fuel efficient than the Holley 750.

The hood hinge springs on my 64 do not pull the rear of the hood down tight. I can push the hood down about 1/2", but it just pops back up on both sides. The hinges seem OK, i.e., no slop in the pins. I have not removed them to do a thorough inspection, but it seems my springs are weak. Has anyone else just replaced the springs to solve the problem of the rear of the hood not coming down tight, or should I just get a new set of hinges with new springs? One more thing. Is there a preferred place to get springs or hinges?

IIRC -- you need to put a washer between the hinge & the hood at the forward bolt location. Apparently that levers the hinge & makes up for the wear so the rear will close properly. Sounds crazy but I've read it too many times to think it's untrue.

Old body shop trick, open hood and push up on the front edge.
Johnny

Rusty 63 wrote:IIRC -- you need to put a washer between the hinge & the hood at the forward bolt location. Apparently that levers the hinge & makes up for the wear so the rear will close properly. Sounds crazy but I've read it too many times to think it's untrue.

Sounds logical to me. I'll give it a try and see what happens. Beats buying new hinges If t works.

longcabjohn wrote:Old body shop trick, open hood and push up on the front edge.
Johnny

I already tried that. Did not seem to do anything. I am going to try what Rusty 63 suggested and we will see how that goes.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21983&hilit=shim+hood+hinge

look thru this

Danny

Hunter's 64 wrote:viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21983&hilit=shim+hood+hinge

look thru this

Danny

I read through the thread and it was very imformative. Thanks. I did try one washer under each front hinge mounting bolt. The passenger side is down tight. I will need one more washer under the drivers side and I think it is all good then. I looked at my higes more in depth and I do see some play in the hinge pins, so new hinges/springs are on the bucket list for next spring. Thanks to all who provided suggestions.

Got my anti rattle window kit a couple of days ago. Was wondering if it is recommended to replace the wing window hinge pin when doing the install? It does seem a little loose to me, but it may be due to the rubber and wndow channels being worn out. Any other advice for the install? I will be removing the window cranks and inspecting and lubing while it is a ll dissasembled.

The truck has not been painted yet so no worries regarding pretecting the paint around the windows. The kit, F21-41195-030, came from Dale's Manufacturing Company, all made in the USA.

milomilo wrote:Got my anti rattle window kit a couple of days ago. Was wondering if it is recommended to replace the wing window hinge pin when doing the install? It does seem a little loose to me, but it may be due to the rubber and wndow channels being worn out. Any other advice for the install? I will be removing the window cranks and inspecting and lubing while it is a ll dissasembled.

The truck has not been painted yet so no worries regarding pretecting the paint around the windows. The kit, F21-41195-030, came from Dale's Manufacturing Company, all made in the USA.

So, no words of wisdom here???

The pics of the PS unit in my 64. The PS unit came from a 76 F100 and the pump came from a Galaxy. It is all mounted on a 74 chassis.
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65 ... 060006.jpg
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65 ... 060005.jpg
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65 ... 060004.jpg
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65 ... 060003.jpg
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65 ... 060002.jpg
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65 ... 060001.jpg

Test pic.

I finally got the 4bbl holley 750 cfm off and the motorcraft 2100 1.3 venturi on the 390. The timing is stock at 8 BTDC. I have it at 12 as the vacuum gauge says it runs best at that timing. I have an electronic distributor. The shaft does not have any play in it. Checked the compression during the carb switch and they read from 112 to 120. A lot lower than I had hoped for. I wpu;ld have liked to see it at 140 to 150. The spark plugs are two weeks old and were cleaned as part of the carb switch. The plugs were sooty black as the Holey was running far too rich.

My problem now is the idle is not as smooth as I like and it backfires through the carb during acceleration. I adjusted the idle mixture screws to get the max vacuum reading, but the gauge flucutates between 11 and 13, as it does not smoothly. The idle screws were backed out 1/4 to 1/2 turn, from the initial 1 1/2 turns, to get the best vacuum reading. The backfire indicates a vacuum leak, so tested all connections and got no rise in the idle. Gonna disconnect all vacuum lines and plug them and start with one at a time to see if there is any change at any one point.

Anyone got any additional suggestions?