Slick 60's

If you have it and it works, go for it. Once you modify the truck, especially with another make suspension, brand loyalty is really kind of pointless and ignorant. It's your truck, your money, and you're the only one it needs to please. I will never understand why some people get bent out of shape over someone else getting a 60-year-old truck back on the road and happening to use what they have available, especially if that person obviously has no interest in doing a correct restoration. That kind of closemindedness pushes people away from sharing info and continuing the existence of these trucks as you are doing. Just my $0.02.

I've enjoyed this build and hope it won't be derailed like others have because you're using a non-factory equipped engine in a custom build. Please carry on.

Thanks for the support. I will not make this build about the engine choice but rather and engine placement with a jag suspension in a 1965-1966 F100.
I hope the info that I share will be a guide. The more info out there on a subject the easier it is to do anything. That is the fun of Hot Rodding. At the end of the day it is all about fun and ingenuity and thinking outside "The Box"....my $0.02.

i personally would of stayed FORD parts..but just like KSTONES mentioned.. your build,ur truck..ur money.. good craftmanship will not get over looked just because you have parts from other makes..

good job.. keep up the good work..

on a side note- how much of an offset did you give your engine? or did you just center it with your transmission tunnel??

eddieschopshop wrote:how much of an offset did you give your engine? or did you just center it with your transmission tunnel??

Good question... Still working on that. Looks like I will be centering it with the trans tunnel. I am in the process of putting a transmission on the engine to see exactly how high I can go and how much room I have. I did not realize that the tunnel was offset until I placed the engine in..
Most F100 engines that I have seen are off to the left of the center cowl vent cleanout about an inch.

Looking back I should have kept the original jaguar engine pads for a foundation for the engine mounts.
Keep watching!!

yea..i know what you mean..
i did a 90s crown vic front clip on mine (since i already had it and it was free) and im in the process of making mounts for the 429.. i noticed when i was checking for clearance that i needed to offset it.. a bit.. i think your right.. i think its 1-1.5 to passenger side..

Project66 wrote:

eddieschopshop wrote:how much of an offset did you give your engine? or did you just center it with your transmission tunnel??

Good question... Still working on that. Looks like I will be centering it with the trans tunnel. I am in the process of putting a transmission on the engine to see exactly how high I can go and how much room I have. I did not realize that the tunnel was offset until I placed the engine in..
Most F100 engines that I have seen are off to the left of the center cowl vent cleanout about an inch.

Looking back I should have kept the original jaguar engine pads for a foundation for the engine mounts.
Keep watching!!

Project66 wrote:[Looking back I should have kept the original jaguar engine pads for a foundation for the engine mounts.

Do you think that the Jag engine pads are worth saving? I was planning to cut them off while I have it out on the floor.

Kevin

I believe that Matt?? that did his Jag suspension with his original engine in place. I believe you can use your original motor mount location. That is if you have a solid axle!

Motor mounts are in. The Jag cross member has some challenges getting motor mounts to work. The engine mounts seemed to be right over the rack and must be off center a bid to clear the transmission tunnel. I found a cross member from the parts bin at work that served the purpose. I also used early ***vy motor mounts which were easier to make fit.







The cross member that goes between the cab mounts will cause interference so I can cut a notch and reinforce or totally remove it. The yellow marks show the area that will be a problem with transmission clearance.

Rear springs are done!
I spent about 2 hours removing the old bushings and shells from the springs and shackles. I installed the ploy kit from energy suspension. Also got some new plastic buttons from my friends at ESPO Springs and Things in PA as well as the rubber clamp pads. Got the springs sand blasted and painted and put all together.

Jag IFS continues...I sandblasted and painted the control arms etc a nice silver color. No pics of that yet. I did notice that the axle shafts had some bearing wear so I got some replacements. The bearings really got these hot!

Looks like good progress with any luck you'll be doing shakedown runs before summer is over .


Rick

The day started and ended cleaning the bed. I took some paint remover and a DA Sander and removed most of the paint and bondo.
The drivers side was worse with about a gallon of bondo removed from the bed side.
The rear wheel opening needs some TLC possibly a patch panel from a Bronco will work not sure. Any thoughts?
Also looking at doing a tub swap. I recently spoke to a builder that took a 1998-2001 Ford bed and hung 1960 sides to it. Maybe hung is a wrong word. He took the stock bed and removed everything but the rear crossmember and bed sides and then took the donor tub front panel and floor and slid them together. So when you look at it you see the rear crossmember and then everything else is new tub. He stated that he "slid" it together several times before it fit right. The only modification was he removed about 2 inches from the top of the donor tub metal to get the right height. Something to consider. I ask for pictures but he did not take any!
Anyway here is today's progress.





I found this surprise under some paint!

I am curious what you plan to do on the bed floor, I am subscribing

Harper wrote:I am curious what you plan to do on the bed floor, I am subscribing

Well, the floor is not too bad. I can get a floor center section out of a late model Ford and replace the metal. The fun thing to do is find a 1998-2001 Ford short bed and replace the entire tub.

Ok, I need some help. Looking at doing some work on the floor and noticed that the dimensions of the bed are different from the front of the bed to the rear. The tailgate gap was wider at the top also. Does anyone have the time to measure the front vs the back bedsides?
Thanks

I only have Uni's so my measurements would be differant but with that said if you are measuring the width at the top rail of the bed front to back most likely the top of the bed at the back has spread over the years and thats where your getting the diffferance . I could be wrong mind you but thats the most likely reason your getting differant numbers .



Rick

You are probably right.
Here is my pic before disassembly and a pic of a truck that I believe is correct.




The rear bed support facia is bent also which could cause an issue. I wonder what years are the same?

Well I am pretty sure a tailgate from a 64 up to 78 will fit your truck if that helps any . I will say from your pics yes the top rear bed rails are spread out . I would go with the front measurements and make the back match personally . As long as there isnt any damage to the front bed section it whould be right .


Rick

Measured three of my shortbeds just now. Front is running. 64 7/8 to 65 inches consistently. Rear varies from 65 1/8 to 65 3/8. Bottom rear is running. 65 to 65 1/8 . Can't locate my crash book to get original figures, but it appears 65 inches may be OEM.
Paul

I agree with Paul on the 65 inches . Also remember people were building trucks back then not robots so the 1/8 " variance could be factory as well since the people putting these things together were not working for NASA .


Rick