Slick 60's

<-----Dodge Guy. 12v's are no match to the new Common Rails tho. But dont be afraid to race the new 6.7s with grandma's car.
Do have to say tho that 12vs are bulletproof tho! A turn of a screwdriver and wha la! 100hp! lol

True, but I only need one wire for my truck to start and run. I am in this for the simplicity of it.

I want to get it running and driving for a while, that will give me a good base line, then I will start turning screws. I have a full gauge package (fuel pressure, egt, and boost), so I won't be afraid to put the coals to her.

I have some time this week so I should be making some more progress.

I just re-read this thread again

and I'm left wondering if a 460, 5 speed would be better on fuel after all the time involved modifications are done to get the diesel running right...

wow all that truck and engine and single pot brakes

Johnny Canuck wrote:wow all that truck and engine and single pot brakes

You missed the posting on the previous page, the single pot is for the clutch.

Dean

STOFFER wrote:I just re-read this thread again

and I'm left wondering if a 460, 5 speed would be better on fuel after all the time involved modifications are done to get the diesel running right...

Sure it probably would be. If mileage was the only reason for the swap it would never pay for itself. I wanted a diesel. Eventually I want to run some sort of used oil for fuel, vegetable oil or used motor oil. Can't do that with a gas motor.

The actual swapping of the diesel is not that much work, no different than swapping in another motor that was not stock. I usually make things more complicated for myself. If the wiring hadn't been hacked when I got the truck that is one less thing I would have to replace.

I worked on it yesterday, I will make an update soon.

Well I made a little progress.

I got the exhaust done. I may put a 4 inch downpipe on at a later date so I didn't get to fancy at the downpipe. I used 4 inch pipe.







I started to put the front end back on as well. And I ran into a problem. When I repaired my core support it must have moved on me when I welded it back together. Now the mounting holes don't line up.





So in order to quickly fix the problem I found a 1964 parts truck and will take the core support off if it. It also is a custom cab so I have a lot of the interior trim as well. The body is trash bit it has a good 302 and 4 speed. I pick it up tomorrow.

that inner fender your brother picked up from me work out ok?

better strip that parts truck down real good like i would. either that or take what you want and drop off the rest here.

The inner fender will work just fine.

If it tows fine on the tow bar I may just bring it down when I am done with it.

STOFFER wrote:I just re-read this thread again

and I'm left wondering if a 460, 5 speed would be better on fuel after all the time involved modifications are done to get the diesel running right...

Although 460's are a nice motor...You cant build any gas motor to make the kind of power a built diesel can make and still get the same great mileage and driveability out of it....

even stock versus stock..diesel wins in my honest opnion..I had stock rebuilt 460 in a 1980 F150 4x4..I have a stock 24 valve cummins in my daily driver now and my diesel could walk all over my 460. and my dodge is a much heavier truck being its a 3/4 ton extended cab longbed...

Dont everyone start hating me now...I still love gas motors but Ive seen some awesome things with the diesels. I plan on builiding my diesel up to. I already upgraded the Injection pump, lift pump, and I now have a built suncoast transmission. I also have a new cold air intake and I have a Edge comp box for it..I just gotta put it on..

65 CREW wrote:

STOFFER wrote:I just re-read this thread again

and I'm left wondering if a 460, 5 speed would be better on fuel after all the time involved modifications are done to get the diesel running right...

Sure it probably would be. If mileage was the only reason for the swap it would never pay for itself. I wanted a diesel. Eventually I want to run some sort of used oil for fuel, vegetable oil or used motor oil. Can't do that with a gas motor.

The actual swapping of the diesel is not that much work, no different than swapping in another motor that was not stock. I usually make things more complicated for myself. If the wiring hadn't been hacked when I got the truck that is one less thing I would have to replace.

I worked on it yesterday, I will make an update soon.

my '65 F-250 needs to be rewired, I have a harness all boxed up and ready to go in, the turbo 351c, is not what I wanted it to be, I did it cheap Vs right, I have a 460 and a 4 speed in the barn, but I want to find a 5 speed and transfercase and convert it to 4X4 using a dana 44 out of a early 70's 1/2 and use the chevy hubs to maintain 8 bolt wheels

anyway, i enjoy this thread and is making me ponder the cummins swap vs the 460 5 speed for a DD when I get back 'Stateside


stepside64, that is the main reason I am considering the diesel swap plus my '65 is fairly light compared to most trucks with diesels in 'em

Well I made a little more progress today.

I got the batteries mounted. I wanted to keep them out of the way. I thought about mounting them in the inner fenders like a late model but that would but a lot of stress on the core support. I decided to go under the flatbed. Before I get it in the road I will put a lead out somewhere so I can jump it if I need to.






Since I messed up on my previous core support rebuild I had to get another one. This one is not in the greatest shape, but everything fits now. I will keep an eye out for a good solid one.




Hopefully more work tomorrow.

I got my battery cables run up to the starter. I also put in a master disconnect switch.





I got put a coat of rattle can black on the core support after wire wheeling most of the rust off. I moved my radiator mounts over as well.





Hopefully more progress today.

I started on the wiring today. I am totally replacing the wiring that was in the truck. It had been hacked up a bunch. There are two 40 amp fuses, one runs a fuse panel that will be hot all the time. The other runs a fuse panel that is wired through a relay to turn on when the ignition switch is in the on position. I have the ignition switch all wired up as well as the temperature gauge.




Here is how I make my battery cables. I use 2/0 arctic grade welding cable. The ends are crimped on with the tool. Shrink tube is used to seal the terminal to the cable to prevent corrosion.




I should be able to get a lot more of the wiring done tomorrow.

Well I started it today. No burned wires or explosions. Just a shop full of diesel smoke. I took some video since everyone seems to like that.

YouTube - Cummins 12 valve in 1965 Ford F350 Crew Cab

now it is time for a test drive. I say lets celebrate.... looking like it is coming along nicely. I love the video. keep the updates coming.
Anthony

Yep a test drive should be coming along shortly. Although I still have to finish a lot of the wiring; headlights, taillights, turn signals, dash lights, wipers, heater, fuel gauge, etc.

cant wait to see it show up in my yard under its own power.

it fired right up and sounds healthy, that 6 speed knob looks great

Well I got some more work done today. I had to order a wiring schematic for the truck so I could wire up the stock switches and stuff. I also went to the truck parts shop and picked up a few things.





I am running all new wire for almost everything. The headlight switch wiring was green and white from corrosion.





I got some connectors at the parts house that snap into the headlight switch socket. They also work with the relay and flasher sockets.




Once I got the wires out of the switch I made myself a map of which wires go where.




Then I started running the new wires. It looks like a mess right now but once I am done I will put everything in looms.




I will be running relays for the headlights. I am mounting them on the right hand side of the core support.




The parts house did not have the connectors that fit the headlight socket. They are 3/8 inch spade terminals, the average spade terminal is 1/4 inch. That meant I had to put in butt connectors.




Tomorrow I should be able to wire up my park lights and the control side of the relays. I need to replace the park/turn socket, the wiring is very hard and brittle.