What engines will fit easily with a straight axel...

Post by **Greg D** » December 17, 2006, 10:09 am

OK, seeings as I don't have an engine in my 64 yet I obviously have options. I am keeping the straight axel front suspension and just adding PS and disc brakes. I have a 223 that I could build up (it runs but is abit tired) have access to a 292 I would have Mummert modify my bellhousing for a T-5 conversion if I run one of these. I am looking to improve the mileage of my powertrain and the power too. Whatever I use I need to run an overdrive tranny whether it be auto or manual. I will likely upgrade the induction to EFI at a later date so I will be running a carb in the meantime. I am not real big on the idea of a Windsor (great idea just a little too "cookie cutter" for me) but will go that route if it works best for me, no FEs. I know what I will have to do with crossmembers etc. for whatever engine I use, what I am concerned about is oilpan, accesory drive, etc. clearance surprises, be aware this truck will be lowered as far as I can get by with! I don't think there will be any tranny clearance issues but if someone knows of one let me know please. Lots of you have done swaps so I figure there is a wealth of answers out there. I can get started on the frame as soon as I sort this out. 6 cylinder suggestions are welcome. If you have any mileage figures with your combo please post them for me too. Thanks, Greg

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » December 17, 2006, 12:13 pm

Obviously you already know what your best option in a V8 is, or at least in my opinion anyway. You will need a rear sump oil pan regardless. The advantages here are manifold, besides expense. However, you might want to look at a 300 six, but not sure about the pan clearance. One thing to remmember about the 292 is it isn't a great mileage and overall power engine, although I like these engines. The other factor is cost. Building a y-block is expensive, even stock, parts are colstly. My advice find a doner truck or van, as these have the rear sump pans.

Rich

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » December 17, 2006, 12:25 pm

the 300 6 was used in the 4x4s which is pretty close to a straight axle configuration.not sure if it used a different pan from the 2wd.
i actually have enough clearance on my 66 front pig for the 292s front sump pan.it was in a 63 2wd previously.did not have an extra rear sump pan at the time.

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » December 18, 2006, 9:07 am

Your biggest hurdle will be the crossmember under the firewall where the bell housing mounts go. Most likely you'll have to cut it out to get anything short of a stock motor to fit (not sure about the 300-6). If you do, be sure to take the fuel line and brake line off of it first. Grind and remove the rivets on the passenger side and use a fire wrench to cut the drivers side, leaving enough of the crossmember for the emergency brake cable to attach to. Take a look and you'll see what I'm talking about.
After that, there are a lot of adapter crossmembers from vendors like Trans-a-dapt available for various FORD motors including FE's, 385 series, and the small blocks.
Lots of us have done it, and we love the new motors. FYI, FE's are expensive and parts are getting scarce but are way cool, 429-460's are the right choice for horse pressure and power, and for all around service and value, the 302-351W's are great.
Just stay all Ford and we'll all be happy :wink:

.
U@ss

joeymac64 · Post by **joeymac64** » December 18, 2006, 9:35 am

If I were doing mine over again I would go for a 302 / 5 litre ho motor as these are quite readily available as are parts can be used efi or carburated wide choice of transmissions which are still fairly inexpensive choice of cable or hydralic clutch no linkage issues small and compact no room issues under hood lots of power and some fuel economy too

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » December 18, 2006, 9:40 am

Well I'll be danged, both Joe and Skip seeing the light on SBF's...

Must be a star in the East :shock:

joeymac64 · Post by **joeymac64** » December 18, 2006, 11:34 am

johnny still not ready to give up on horsepower torque and poor fuel economy yet second child hood thing i think??? just glad i dont live where i could drive all year round i would be living in the truck lol

Garbz · Post by **Garbz** » December 18, 2006, 2:35 pm

Use a Fe mount for the straight six. 65 66 towers are the same but in the next hole set back between the engines. use the stock engine isolator. The mount does not care if it is 2 inches farther ahead in the eariler open frame.

Garbz

blueovaldave · Post by **blueovaldave** » December 18, 2006, 4:32 pm

I stuck a 460 in mine.
[albumimg]1250[/albumimg]

Unibodyguy1 · Post by **Unibodyguy1** » December 19, 2006, 2:10 am

Greg,
I know a lot of people think a Y-block is expensive to build, and that its not that great of motor. I admit if you don't shop around for parts it can be very expensive. I did a 292 +.40 about a year and a half ago for a guy in town here, and we had about $1600.00 in it with a balance job along with it. I'm not comparing it to a 302, 460,Chebby, or anything else out there, but I will tell you he gets pretty good gas milage a consistant 18-19 on the hwy. and 12-15 in town. A lot of that had to do with the cam that was put in it, and a sensible rearend gearing change. Went from 3:92's to 3:00's. Its got a T-10 4 speed behind it and its a lot of fun to drive. Also electronic ignition, (Petronix) headers/exhast, and staying with a small 4bll. ( 500cfm.) carb. He also pulls a small boat with it here in the summer, and has no problem doing that at all being 110 at times.

Michael

Post by **Greg D** » December 19, 2006, 9:07 am

Well, I got reminded yesterday why I need to be running an AOD for the tranny. Although my bum shoulders have not bothered me in a while the left one saw fit to abuse me all day long. Had it been the right one as bad as it was I am not sure I would have been able to drive the GT! Looking like a Windsor or a 240/300-6, a 429/460 would be fun but too much fuel for as much as I will drive the truck. I wonder about adding some brackets to the AOD bellhousing so it could bolt to the rear crossmember in the straight axle frame, then I could use the horseshoe mount on a 300-6 and not mess around with the frame.

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » December 19, 2006, 9:24 am

Greg. Sounds like what you are looking for is the whole setup out of a late 80's mid- 90's Ford pickup.

They had 300 sixes with aod(e?)'s and fuel injection. Got decent mileage, power and no carb. They also came with that Mazdoo 5 spd tranny too. FBp has one of these, sounds like he don't care for the Mazdoo tranny tho.. Welding/fabricating/aligning the ears for an aluminum tranny case sounds somewhat tricky to me, but not impossible. I think what may be a problem is the full extended length of the transmission, you have hanging out there unsupported, except at the very front of the case. Might make the first case for one of those 2 piece driveshafts I would have heard of :lol:

Finding the loop mount for the front of a 300 six..

not sure how they fastened on to the front of the motor either.. might be harder, especially if there is a different timing chain casing involved... might blossom into changing water pump, pulley setup etc. etc.

So, all in all it might be easier to find the above donor truck and use the kit mounts for a small-block. Sounds like you are trying to make it look as stock as possible, but of course with FI, etc. it wouldn't.

Best o' luck bud, hope that shoulder is feeling better and people are buying Subarus to beat the band...

JC

Post by **Greg D** » December 19, 2006, 11:25 am

Part of what this comes down to is the less screwing around with the frame other than cleaning and coating the closer I am to reassembly. I was actually considering using the stock rear mount with ears to keep the engine from rocking and add later model type tranny crossmember to support the rear of the tranny, I may be able to drill the bellhousing and bolt the ears to the outside using countersunk allen head bolts coming through from the inside so they wouldn't interfere with the torque converter. I know it sounds kinda like overkill but the rear crossmember would bolt in when I install the driveline and would only require me drilling 4 holes at that time. I don't even know if the later 300 blocks would be drilled and tapped for the horseshoe mount and I kinda doubt it but as long as the castings are the same that would be an easy fix, or I could rebuild an early block with later model externals too. Lol, guess part of it will could come down to what is laying over on the back lot when I go to get a donor, gonna be my cheapest source. I am not looking for a stock look as much as I want a nostalgia hotrod look, a hotrodded 6 would definately fit that and for induction there is always the Moon throttle bodies that look just like Stromberg 97s, I'm thinkin 3 would be cool.

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » December 19, 2006, 3:19 pm

take a look here Greg
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/55878 ... 223-a.html

Comet · Post by **Comet** » December 19, 2006, 3:25 pm

My vote: Go with your Y block. Plus there are lots of cool dress up parts for it.

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » December 19, 2006, 6:05 pm

You can put all factory bolt up stuff with a Y-block. I would build the 292 and put a cast iron case Cruise-o-Matic in it. Any compentent tranny shop can build the trans. Those old transmissions are strong and shift hard. I believe you will need the Y-block truck bell housing. You can also put the CIC behind an FE. Good luck...........

six-two · Post by **six-two** » December 19, 2006, 9:51 pm

The six would be cool, the Y-Block would be cool, I love the 460, but if you want mileage and power, a modern injected 5 liter/302 is the sensible choice(I think). Of course if you are like me one of the main reasons you have a slick is because it is easy to work on. I know fuel injection mechanically speaking is no big deal, it just seems intimidating to me to work on modern motors. If you want something different, a 351 cleveland fits well, and is awesome, but the parts can be kind of pricey (but not all that expensive either, just not 350 chevy prices). I know because I have one in mine. It is mounted to a cruise-o-matic or FMX tranny, I'm just not sure which. I didn't do the switch, but the tranny crossmember on my truck is fabricated (you can probably buy one now) and it looks like it would be an easy swap. BTW, I have almost no mechanical knowledge, so my opinion might not be as well educated as others, just trying to help out.
:2cents:

____________________________________six-two :cheers:

STOFFER · Post by **STOFFER** » December 22, 2006, 9:30 am

Greg use the Y-block 292 or 312 with a 4 barrel intake and add the stroker crank and the T-5 trans, some headers and a holley fuel injection conversion and you'll blow peoples minds and you should have decent mileage for a truck and more than enough power to get you around.

http://www.ford-y-block.com/yblockpage.htm

http://www.ford-y-block.com/stroker%20kits.htm

http://www.ford-y-block.com/truckt5.htm

Post by **Greg D** » December 22, 2006, 10:34 am

As much as I would like to run a Y block or built 223 with some of those Moon injection Stromberg replicas on them. I really need to have an auto tranny with overdrive in this truck so I think I am going to go with a 300-6 dressed up with the right valve cover etc to get kind of a nostalgic look. So does anyone out there have a spare 65/66 big slick horseshoe mount for a 300/FE? I'll probably use the late EFI split exaust manifolds seeings as they will already be setup for O2 sensors and will look sorta like an old split manifold setup. Just need to find the right intake for the throttle bodys at some point. At least with the 300 performance parts are still being produced so cams etc. will be easy to get so that I won't have a partially complete engine waiting to find that one last part to get it together. Thanks for all the input guys this has been a big help.

Garbz · Post by **Garbz** » December 22, 2006, 11:32 am

Greg

4.9s with fuel injection do not like cam changes due to being a MAP type. The EFI engine is a dog.

There were head changes in 88 to facilitate the efi and they were not for the better.

Also you will need two fuel pumps one low pressure and a high pressure. the secondary coolung fan and all the wiring harness from the dash to the sensors to make it run.

The front hoops are made for the F350 and up trucks for 65 66 and later N series trucks. They may clear the modern accessories like the air pump and Power steering brackets. Then again they may not.

Garbz

What engines will fit easily with a straight axel...

What engines will fit easily with a straight axel...

What engines will fit easily in a straight axle....

Greg use the Y-block with a stroker crank