Slick 60's

Alright fellas, so it has been a long time since I have posted but I have been checking back frequently. I had lost my password and just found where I wrote it down. But anyway on to bigger and better things. I am trying to figure out the best master cylinder to use to change my single pot system to dual. I am trying to do it with the least amount of mods possible because I dont want to lose any originality. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks in advance. You guys seem to know everything. And its great to have this this vast amount of knowledge to tap into.

The 1968 Mustang MC works real well, it comes in drum/drum, disc/drum, either power boosted or not. If you upgrade something else later it makes it bolt in swap.
My 62's brake pedal had 2 holes in it so the new rod fit fine by using the "other" hole, you may have to shorten the rod though.
All the pics here are in my album, click on one of them and it will take you there for better pics of the MC & brake light switch. This may help;

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Rob, we need to do this on the buddy system, I wanna do the same thing, I believe any 67-72 drum/drum mc should work then some plumbing work. Somebody will chime in for sure.
Charlie

See, Greg was already on it.

66fordtrucknut wrote:Rob, we need to do this on the buddy system, I wanna do the same thing, I believe any 67-72 drum/drum mc should work then some plumbing work. Somebody will chime in for sure.
Charlie

I have done over 6 of these swaps.
The pedal fit is better for some reason using the Mustang piece on a straight axle truck, the part Charlie mentions works better than the Mustang part on a Twin I truck.
You guys have any questions let me know, I'll be glad to help all I can.
There is this route too if you guys are feeling real ambitious;

http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2647

done a few of these too, i used the 72 f250 4x4 non-power drum/drum m.c.
no mods other than cutting the rod.

Mine is a '70 f100 drum/drum.. Bolted right up and shortened the rod that came with the new mc.

While your at it....just grab a late 90s Ranger booster and bolt that in with alittle work (drill 2 more holes). I'm running all drums and the truck STOPS real well

The 67 F100 dual pot M/C has a shorter rod than what is on the 68 to 72 dual pot M/C by about an inch. The 67 unit will bolt right into a 65-66 without any modification needed. Also some of the parts suppliers include both the long and the short rod with a bumpside M/C.

i am sure i have a few mustang master cylinders laying around i will have to bolt one up for measurement purposes. Thanks for all the help fellas.

Charlie that sounds good, maybe together we can figure out something, but no promises HAHA

If you do not install the differential pressure valve that came on vehicles equipped with a tandem master cylinder, you will not get ANY added safety benefit from the dual piston master cylinder. The differential pressure valve (some call it a distribution block but that is not entirely correct) shuts off flow to a leaking front or rear system if a leak (difference in pressure front to rear) is determined. If you do not have that valve, the leaking end will cause the pedal to go all the way to the floor. This can be verified if you did NOT install the diff press valve by simply cracking open any one of the 4 bleeders at the wheel. The pedal WILL go to the floor without differential pressure valve installed.

I prefer the truck dual piston master cylinders for this swap because they have larger reservoirs than the Mustang m/c. Both have 1.0" bores.