Slick 60's

Big Block,
That cross member ties the frame rails together at the rear mounts of the radius rods. In my opinion, cutting that cross member, without adding reinforcements, is not the way to go. It would be preferable to reroute the exhaust rather than cut the cross member.
Truck exhaust manifolds, and all aftermarket headers I have used, do not interfere with the crossmember.

Roger Carter

ok thank you

just an update my truck is still not running but the engine is in the truck.the little stuff is killing me like the lokar cable and bracket that cost 100 the mini starter thats another 100 just to name a few. so this project is on hold for a while till i get more funds.thank you everyone that helped me get to this point i will post pics when i take some good ones.

late model ford starters work good and cheap on price.
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/It ... %20SFD0011

just an update motor and trans are in ordered all the parts i need.i should drop it off to get tuned next week yaaaaaaaaa. thanks everyone for the help.

Im new to the site and currently doing this swap using factory ford big block motor mounts from a 73-79 ford just like has been said and i am having problems with firewall clearance. The heads are hitting the firewall when the motor mounts and perches line up. I know there are two sets of crossmember holes and im wondering if they are in the wrong holes i can post pictures if needed or of someone can put me in the right direction

You can slide/move the cab back a bit for clearance. You can shim the cab and core support for a bit of clearance at the top of the transmission. You can also gently hammer the cab seam by the left head for a bit more clearance. On ebay you can find a cheap LoKar knockoff that will work for now. Remove all the ford accelerator bracket hardware, plug the holes and drill a new hole about an inch to the right and about an 1/2 inch up for the new firewall mounted accelerator cable. Grind off the end of the cable ball on the in cab accelerator and knock it out with a small punch. You can do this in the cab but it will be easier if you pull it and use a vice. All this is a snug fit for these fat blocks but they are 100% Ford and you will be pleased with the reliable results. IMHO!

I think you are using the wrong holes, I did this same swap and everything lined up with no clearence problems, used the same holes as on the 78 frame. The only thing was drill hole to mount 3/8 fuel line to crossmember near fuel pump.



Johnny

I have done a number of the 460 into '65-'66 swaps with no issues. Clearances are tighter than with a FE, but if the engine and trans are properly located there is no interference. There is no need to "hammer clearance" anything to make things fit.
It does sound like you are in the rear set of perch mounting holes. On some trucks I have had to drill a couple additional holes in the truck's crossmember in order to put 4 bolts in each perch.
Take a look at page 1 of my album and you can see some pictures of the last 460 into a '66 swap I did. There was a clearance issue with the throttle cable but that was due to the tall Motorsport valve covers.
There aren't any pictures specific to the perch mounting, but you can see the type of clearance that exists between the engine and fireawll.

Good luck.

Roger Carter

I drove into town & let Colleen Christmas shop
Then topped of the gas tank on the way back home
2.98 dollar a gallon
I was gonna wash off the salt.... Too long a line though

Salt is bad for your blood pressure...

sorry it has taken so long for me to get back on here, i took a break from all of the fitment issues. ill hopefully get back on it this weekend to figure something out. thanks everyone for the input. ill be sure to let yall know how it turns out. im ready to here this thing run!!

I know this is an old thread but was curious if you can drop a 460/c6 into a slick as one chunk or do you have to split them apart? Going to pull the driveline from my parts 79 for my 66 250 in the near future. The parts truck will be stripped down so it will pull out the front but the 66 front end is intact so I was hoping to thread it in from the top, but its a lot of motor and trans to slide in. Thanks!

It can be done, but is much easier if you remove the complete front end, only eight bolt if I count right. Bottom of fender, under dash, rubber strap on inner fender, radiator support to frame.


Johnny

You will need to separate the two, or remove the secondary crossmember as the truck was not designed for the C-6 case.
The secondary crossmember gets in the way, so that there is not enough room between the crossmember and the underside of the transmission hump to insert the transmission.
The secondary crossmember is riveted to the I-Beam pivot points and reduces frame flex.
You will need to remove this crossmember to get the transmission in whether stabbing it down from on top or lifting it up from underneath.
If the truck came with a manual transmission from the factory, the crossmember will be riveted to the pivot points. Remove the rivet heads with a grinder and drive the rivet out with a punch. Do not remove any pivot point rivets - just the ones for the crossmember
If the truck came with an automatic, the crossmember will be bolted to the pivot points.
In both cases, the upper side of the crossmember is bolted to the upper frame rail.
You can stab the engine and transmission from the top as a mated pair if the secondary crossmember is removed first.
Reinstall the secondary crossmember with 8-grade bolts.

Note 1: The transmission SUPPORT crossmember is the one that holds the tail of the transmission up.

Note 2: If the truck came with an automatic from the factory, it would have come with a COM, not a C6. One of the COM adjustments requires access to the top of the transmission, and cannot be reached from underneath the vehicle, so Ford installed an access plate in the transmission hump.

Hawkrod wrote:You will spend more money buying aftermarket and it does not work nearly as well.

X2

Thanks for the info! The 66 was an auto originally so that should be easier, would you still recommend pulling the front clip off as one unit or go through the top. Looking forward to getting the big chunks swapped over and clearing out the 79 from the back yard. Also what will I need to do to the steering column, I plan on using the disc brakes and ps setup from the 79. Thanks again!