62 uni from my wife

jshelley45 · Post by **jshelley45** » October 7, 2009, 1:52 pm

Next week My wife is picking up my birthday present. Its a swb 62 f100 with a 292 and 3 sp. tranny. The only major rust problems I have seen so far are where the bed floor meets the front of the bed and cab. I plan to do the front disk conversion and I-beam stretch to bring the stance down. At the moment I can get under the truck to check out the rearend so I'm not sure whats under it. I have an axle code 11 but I can find any info on it.

I'm going from building imports to this being my first domestic resto. I think I'm hooked on the lines of these old trucks. Any information you could give me on what to expect on teardown wold be nice and places to look over more.

Falcon Interceptor · Post by **Falcon Interceptor** » October 7, 2009, 2:01 pm

3.70:1 is axle code 11, that's a good street driving gear IMO
Being a uni, that rusted bed may have rusted to under the fuel tank.
I'm sure someone here can help you with any question you might have

Here's a decent how to on cab drains
http://mongrelmotorsports.homestead.com/f100rust.html
Wouldn't hurt to read this post
http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3051
Also I got the following list from
http://mongrelmotorsports.homestead.com/trkvalue.html

List of common rust areas on 61-66 trucks in opinion of severity and effect on value, worst to least

Cab mounts (available repro)
Cab outriggers (rear of cab, patch panels available)
Floorpans (repro available for 61-64, 65-66 can be made to work with newer model pans)
Roof perimeter/ drip rails (difficult to repair) (May even look fine but have rust under the filler)
Radiator core support (now available repro for 61-64 trucks, can be made to fit 65-66 with some work)
Unibody bed sides & crossmembers
Unibody tailgates (impossible to find used, repro available but not cheap)
61-64 cab steps (available repro)
Hood, generally the front edge (only repro available is very expensive fiberglass version)
64-66 fleetside bed front floor (no patch panel available)
Bottom of hinge post (excellent patch pieces made by Carolina Classics)
Cab corners (patch panels available)
Doors (Uni doors are different than standard cabs)
Fenders (can be found used; patch panels available)
Tailgates, standard bed 64-66 (repros available new but not 'correct', have different lettering)

Not rust related but worth noting: original type rear bumpers and brackets for fleetside and unibody trucks can be hard to find.

Also you didn't mention any future plans, but you mentioned tuners so I hope you're planning to hang turbo's off each side of the crossover manifolds. Plenty of Y-block fans around also.

jshelley45 · Post by **jshelley45** » October 7, 2009, 3:00 pm

My engine plans are to up the compression to 10:1, add a 4v intake and carb, isky cam, and do the duraspark II conversion. The tailgate was already missing from the truck and the bumper is a dealership addon. I plan to build a rollpan for it and have the exhaust exit it like on the older mustangs. Overall the truck is bone stock, the radio is missing it was converted to a floor shifter and the turn signal switch was replaced with something after market.
My wife paid 400.00 for the truck so I dont mind having body work to do.

here are a couple of pics of the truck:

front quater view

side quater view

Engine compartment

Interior view

Drivers side cluster

Anthony · Post by **Anthony** » October 7, 2009, 3:40 pm

Looks like you have a good start there... Keep us updated.....with plenty of pics...
Anthony

thenephilm · Post by **thenephilm** » October 7, 2009, 4:47 pm

looks like a nice project...seems fairly straight

jshelley45 · Post by **jshelley45** » October 10, 2009, 7:31 pm

Anyone from or around arkansas know a reputable shop to have engine work done around he central arkansas area

Post by **Greg D** » October 10, 2009, 9:35 pm

Welcome to Slick 60s.
Be warned once you start with these trucks - there is no cure. :lol:

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » October 10, 2009, 9:55 pm

Welcome to the Club!, is that mirror a stocker or did some evil genius make it?

Falcon Interceptor · October 11, 2009, 12:55 am

Alan Mclennan wrote:Welcome to the Club!, is that mirror a stocker or did some evil genius make it?

They appear to be from a later model

such as these on eBay

slick4x4 · Post by **slick4x4** » October 11, 2009, 9:46 am

f r o m
K A N S A S
is that a 61 grill ?

jshelley45 · Post by **jshelley45** » October 17, 2009, 10:17 am

Picked up my truck yesterday. It has more rust than I first thought but not terrible. But I'm confused about something. The body lines for the passenger side and drivers side dont match. one is a straight line and the other has a slight downturn at the door. Is this normal or do I have 2 different doors. The reason I ask is because the other 62 they have is the same way. While I'm at it what are replacement cab corners?

So far the passenger side front door jam is gone, front cab mount is rusted out. under both air vents are rusted out, one of the doors and under the tank next to the filler neck. Also the ,I think it's the torque box,
right under the bed where it meets the cab is rusted out and the bed corners near the cab have big holes. I'll post so pictures later today.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » October 17, 2009, 11:33 am

the drivers door with the curve in the body line is a standard cab door, the straight line is the correct uni door.
bought 2 trucks like that so far, first one had me scratching my head fror a minute till i figured out why the 2 sides were different. :lol:

hopefully your 2 trucks with mismatched doors are a set so you can swap them out.

jshelley45 · Post by **jshelley45** » October 18, 2009, 10:03 am

Well I got all the wiring pulled out of the truck and I have to admit I've neer seen speaker wire and wire nuts used on wiring. and the homemade fuse block was a nightmare. The only original wiring was the harness for the headlights.

Has anyone used the ezwiring harnesses before? I'm debating on a 12, 18, or 21 circuit harness. I plan to run a few extra circuits. As soon as I get my camera back I'll post the pictures of the teardown of the truck.

Anthony · Post by **Anthony** » October 18, 2009, 3:30 pm

jshelley45, I am in the process of installing an EZ2Wire EZ22 22 circuit in my '66. It says it is GM but it is a universal. I have to install all of my plug ends on it. It is pretty straight forward but very slow going. The wires are marked very well and I think the quality, for the price, is very good. I am very happy with mine.... here is a link....
Anthony

http://stores.ez2wire.com/-strse-37516/ ... Detail.bok

Obsa · Post by **Obsa** » October 18, 2009, 3:59 pm

I watched my son replace the wiring system in his 50 Chevy with a 21 circuit system from EZ. Very good quality well made and marked. He did buy the all black wiring rather than the color coded wires. Looked good after it was finished but was a Royal PITA trying to read the faint white writing on the black wires.

jshelley45 · Post by **jshelley45** » October 21, 2009, 8:46 am

I don't know if this is homemade or not but here is a picture of the fuse panel I removed:

Obsa · Post by **Obsa** » October 21, 2009, 10:05 am

Looks to be homemade to me, not all bad but could be much better.

JFCDeuce · Post by **JFCDeuce** » October 23, 2009, 3:29 am

Good luck with the doors, I had to go through that when my driver's side got hit. (luckily I found a door, and another Slick fan here to help me out with his mismatched doors.)

The EZ Wire universal 21 circ. kit is easy enough, but you do need to understand wiring. (things like instrument power vs. instrument dimmer, the dome light circuit (are you adding power, or creating a ground))...
...and the most FUN of all is the turn signal/brake light column wiring. (I nearly think I would actually buy an ididit or flaming river tilt column with the GM plug on it to avoid that job again!)

Best of luck with it!

jshelley45 · Post by **jshelley45** » October 25, 2009, 5:36 pm

Well I finally got some more teardown done, and a friend and I are arguing about a few things.

1) The straight axle isn't all that straight, he says its suppose to be that way because the bend is in the exact middle. Here is a picture of it:

2) He says this isnt a 9 inch rear axle because its missing one vertical fin on the differential:

3) And lastly I should put a big block in the truck and give him this 292:

Now my last question is, the cylinder heads seem like there are not the ones that came on the truck, The lack of rust and the only codes I can find on them are D15 and D23. Here is a picture or two of the heads:

and

Obsa · Post by **Obsa** » October 25, 2009, 8:01 pm

1. not sure but I believe the axle should be straight
2. It is 9 inch only other option would be a dana which access to the gears is thru a rear cover Plate.
3. Sure the guy is really a friend? I would keep the Y-block
4. don.t know about the heads but they do look different from the block