Slick 60's

If you have a steering wheel that is cracked and pieces broken out rebuild it. I had my original one and checked into fixing it. I saw one being rebuilt this way on TV, you could rebuild it by using the fiberglass "kitty hair " type of filler.  This is the type that has fibers in it. IT works great. If you have two of them with pieces missing piece them together. In other words if you have chunks out of the base of the wheel and have another one you can cut the rubber stuff off the donor and trim it to fit. DO NOT CUT any of the steel core period!!  Only cut or trim the black rubber stuff at the base. The arms that go out and the round wheel part you grip you can just fill in with putty. I had a section missing on the base and I cut out that rubber section on the donor. I trimmed it until it fit in the area. I then mixed some of the filler and put on both sides of the donor piece. let it dry and form up. You can use a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut the donor piece. And you can use the grinding rocks to form the area. I also cut a groove in the crack areas so it would fill in. Things to watch out for. DO NOT CUT THE STEEL, PERIOD!! Another thing is to watch out and not allow filler to be pressed into the area where the 3 teeth goes that hold the horn button on. You can probably use masking tape over this area before you fill it in. Its hard to get out ,trust me I,m speaking from experence. A coulpe of hours and some elbow grease and you have a wheel as good as new.

POR-15 also has a steering wheel repair kit. I used it on an old mustang that I had. It worked quite well and pretty easy to use.

What are you using to paint it with? You'll need paint with adhesion promoter to stick to the wheel. And clean and degrease it well first, with a light sanding to add "tooth."

I basically did like you would do any bodyworking. I smoothed it out to where I wanted .In other words got the humps and high spots out. Then roughed it out and used a good primer, I don't remember exactly the type but its for filler then I painted it.

This is the kit from POR-15.

http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/COMPLETEKITS/STEERINGWHEELREPAIRKIT/tabid/109/Default.aspx

Also on pg 33 of the catalog shows a step by step process of how to restore a steering wheel with the kit. Car Craft did an article on it in Aug 99 called Steering Wheel Resto. This is how I learned about POR-15 when I was doing my rustang.....

You can also use JB Weld or PC-7 epoxy. I think I'll use the epoxy as it is less likely to flex than the fiberglass body filler?

Used the POR kit.. worked slick I thought. So long as it was room temperature. Last winter I was out in my garage on a cold day, when it was -10C or so in there. Heard a snap. I knew immediately what it was . the wheel cracked again, in a different spot. Gudjameet.

I used the PC-7 product and it worked great. Got it in a kit from Eastwood.

Here is the kit I got:
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I used a dremel tool to clean out cracks and prep
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Here is primed wheel
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I completed it about 1 1/2 years ago and it is holding up great.

So the paint is holding up too? I've seen this done several times on old hot rods, but I never hear how long the paint lasts. Also, can you use any paint once you use there primer? I'd be interested in some unusual 60's colors that are probably not available in a kit.

I am just interested in knowing how the steering wheels that have been restored and painted are holding up. I am thinking about restoring my wheel. Thanks Roger

I restored the wheel on my 67 several years ago using a epoxy from the local parts house, its held up well so far. lots and lots of elbow grease cleaning and abrasing gently with Green scotch brite pads and wet sand paper to make sure the paint will adhere and not damage the contours of the surface of the wheel. I did the same to my interior in that same car back in 1992 and its still holding up. most of your old colors from the 60s for fords can be bought through california mustang, or others that seell the same paint. its expensive, was 8 bucks a can back then, now I buy it for almost 15, but I havent ever had a problem with it adhering or fading. or anything else. but that all has to do with proper preperation of the surface