Door weatherstrip

Blackwaterforge · Post by **Blackwaterforge** » January 20, 2010, 9:06 am

Anyone know any secrets for installing weather strip around door?
Thank You!

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » January 20, 2010, 9:41 am

I know one. Don't buy LMC door weather strips. Notorious for not fitting right.

Rich

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » January 20, 2010, 11:26 am

what Rich said is very important, only get USA made rubber. there are several suppliers of this.

i also would not ever do another set with the doors on, and they should be installed in a warm environment or on a warm day at least 65F.

use the black 3M adhesive and wear surgical gloves or you will have adhesive on your hands/fingers for a while.

Brian Taylor · Post by **Brian Taylor** » January 20, 2010, 11:36 am

Agree with the doors off, I tried it with them on and it does not go well.
Clean the surface very well with a prep wipe and test fit.

betfm · Post by **betfm** » January 20, 2010, 3:01 pm

I just done this on a 61, I had Dennis Carpenter weatherstrip. The doors were on the truck, I started with the passenger side and put the bottom in with the clips as suggested. The new plastic push in clips are larger than the factory metal ones, so I had to drill the holes larger to fit the new weatherstrip. The bottom worked fine, then I went to run it up the door jam side and the adhesive would not hold it in place with the molded rubber that goes around the door at the upper hinge area. I tried it 3 times ( I am stubborn) always cleaning off the hardened 3M super adhesive (black) each time. NEVER GOT IT TO STICK RIGHT!
So I took the door off, recleaned it and used contact cement on the harder rubber molded pieces that fit the contour, I then finished the rest of the door with the 3M super weatherstrip adhesive.
It came out great after this hard learned lesson, I
removed the drivers door and done it in record time. I also reused the factory clips that hold the weatherstrip tight and on the drivers side I notched the rubber to fit over the heads of the screws so it would fit tighter. by doing this, The Driver door closes much better than the Passenger door.
Sorry for the long post, hope it helps.
Ed

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » January 20, 2010, 5:14 pm

some trucks especially the early one like 61/62 the bottom holes are smaller than later ones for door seals

Blackwaterforge · Post by **Blackwaterforge** » January 21, 2010, 8:51 am

Thanks guys for the replies.
The first door was a train wreck.

The second went much better.

Iceman wrote
only get USA (Words to live by!)

qwertyd10n · Post by **qwertyd10n** » January 4, 2011, 6:47 pm

betfm wrote:I just done this on a 61, I had Dennis Carpenter weatherstrip. The doors were on the truck, I started with the passenger side and put the bottom in with the clips as suggested. The new plastic push in clips are larger than the factory metal ones, so I had to drill the holes larger to fit the new weatherstrip. The bottom worked fine, then I went to run it up the door jam side and the adhesive would not hold it in place with the molded rubber that goes around the door at the upper hinge area. I tried it 3 times ( I am stubborn) always cleaning off the hardened 3M super adhesive (black) each time. NEVER GOT IT TO STICK RIGHT!
So I took the door off, recleaned it and used contact cement on the harder rubber molded pieces that fit the contour, I then finished the rest of the door with the 3M super weatherstrip adhesive.
It came out great after this hard learned lesson, I
removed the drivers door and done it in record time. I also reused the factory clips that hold the weatherstrip tight and on the drivers side I notched the rubber to fit over the heads of the screws so it would fit tighter. by doing this, The Driver door closes much better than the Passenger door.
Sorry for the long post, hope it helps.
Ed

Hey Ed,

When you said you "reused the factory clips that hold the weatherstrip tight", what factory clips are you referring to? And what screws did you notch the rubber to fit tighter over?

Cheers,
Dion

65fordguy · Post by **65fordguy** » January 4, 2011, 7:00 pm

Crap.. I have been sitting on LMC weatherstriping for well over a year waiting on the truck to get painted.. Surely the fit isnt that bad??? I cant imagine LMC wanting to sell a bad product. What is so bad about them?

betfm · Post by **betfm** » January 4, 2011, 7:22 pm

Don,

My drivers door had these small metal clips about 1/2" wide shaped like a square "U" with a hole in the middle for the screw.

I believe here was 2 on the hinge side and 2 on the latch side. The weatherstrip on the driver side was the old original stuff and it was retained by these clips which were bent down over the edge of the weatherstrip.

I think it was done this way to help hold the weatherstrip in place as it is pulled up the door for gluing.

I notched the weatherstrip on the UNDERNEATH side where it was glued to the retainer clip/door so it would not be too tight as the head of the screws would hold the weatherstrip up higher as make the door harder to shut.

The passenger door did not have them since it had been replace previously---but the holes were there so I just made some clips and installed them.

I did not notch the weatherstrip for the screwheads on the passenger side and I still cannot get the door to shut properly. So I will probably need to redo it.

The drivers side shuts very well.

The metal clips I made were probably 18 gauge sheetmetal, and the screws are probably #10 phillips pan head X 3/8" long.

Wish I had taken some pictures. If you look closely the holes may be visable on your doors, My truck us a 61, so I don't know if later ones used the same method.

I hope this helps and is not too confusing.

If you need more--perhaps I could take a picture of them installed.

Ed

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » January 4, 2011, 7:48 pm

Also soak the rubber in soapy water before you install. Don't remember who told me to do this, but they went on easy...or at least that's what my body man said

!

And close solid.

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » January 4, 2011, 8:02 pm

Guys, any time you're using repop rubber and plan to glue it in, you have got to wash the mold release off the rubber.
Get a small box of laundromat Tide, a bucket of water and a rag and wash, then rinse the pieces well.
Lay them out flat for a couple of days to dry before you try to install them.
I used painters tape (blue) to outline the area where I was going to use the gorilla snot on the door.... both sides.
Keeps snot creep off other parts of the door, don't you know?
Put a thin coat on the entire door area and let it sit, then a thin coat on the rubber where it will fit in the contour of the door and let it dry.
Finally, starting at the bottom where the clips are, put another thin coat on the rubber about 6" at a time and press it flat before moving on. I also use the tape to hold things in place as I go.
The rest is as everyone else says. And it is better with the doors off the truck, but it can be done with them on.
Did I mention that if you have two pair of hands, it goes faster?
And use acetone to clean your hands and spots where the adhesive magically appears after you've been so careful.
Good luck and take your time.
U@ss

kstones63 · Post by **kstones63** » January 4, 2011, 9:45 pm

65fordguy wrote:Crap.. I have been sitting on LMC weatherstriping for well over a year waiting on the truck to get painted.. Surely the fit isnt that bad??? I cant imagine LMC wanting to sell a bad product. What is so bad about them?

Wait until you get the LMC rubber on the doors and try to shut them. You will probably say "they will seat in and shut right after a while" but it never gets any better. Mine were on the truck for over 6 months during the build phase and never did get any better and it sat through the Arizona summer heat. The passenger door shut fair but the drivers door had to be slammed hard to get it to shut. I finally bought DC rubbers and they shut perfectly. I also had to throw away the LMC window rubbers and buy DC to get the front and back windows in.
Let us know how they work out for you.

Kevin

samdog1966 · Post by **samdog1966** » January 4, 2011, 10:04 pm

I used DC seal on my pass. door with 3M adhesive. Adhesive is messy to work with,the door seal fit like a glove. The door now closes and seals like it should. Do it on a warm day and wear gloves. Good Luck.

qwertyd10n · Post by **qwertyd10n** » January 4, 2011, 11:15 pm

betfm wrote:Don,

My drivers door had these small metal clips about 1/2" wide shaped like a square "U" with a hole in the middle for the screw.

I believe here was 2 on the hinge side and 2 on the latch side. The weatherstrip on the driver side was the old original stuff and it was retained by these clips which were bent down over the edge of the weatherstrip.

I think it was done this way to help hold the weatherstrip in place as it is pulled up the door for gluing.

I notched the weatherstrip on the UNDERNEATH side where it was glued to the retainer clip/door so it would not be too tight as the head of the screws would hold the weatherstrip up higher as make the door harder to shut.

The passenger door did not have them since it had been replace previously---but the holes were there so I just made some clips and installed them.

I did not notch the weatherstrip for the screwheads on the passenger side and I still cannot get the door to shut properly. So I will probably need to redo it.

The drivers side shuts very well.

The metal clips I made were probably 18 gauge sheetmetal, and the screws are probably #10 phillips pan head X 3/8" long.

Wish I had taken some pictures. If you look closely the holes may be visable on your doors, My truck us a 61, so I don't know if later ones used the same method.

I hope this helps and is not too confusing.

If you need more--perhaps I could take a picture of them installed.

Ed

Hey Ed,

I'll take a closer look at the clips on my door the next time I'm out in the garage. But a picture of how they look once installed would be great.

Cheers,
Dion

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » January 5, 2011, 12:22 am

I agree!, don`t use LMC rubber, my drivers door would not shut!

betfm · Post by **betfm** » January 5, 2011, 12:16 pm

Uncle Skip wrote:Guys, any time you're using repop rubber and plan to glue it in, you have got to wash the mold release off the rubber.
Get a small box of laundromat Tide, a bucket of water and a rag and wash, then rinse the pieces well.
Lay them out flat for a couple of days to dry before you try to install them.
U@ss

Very good advice!! I learned that the hard way.
Ed

rwhistles · Post by **rwhistles** » January 5, 2011, 7:19 pm

UPS just dropped off my cab seal kit from DC today. After all the floor work I don't want any more water getting in.

qwertyd10n · Post by **qwertyd10n** » January 15, 2011, 11:52 pm

Anyone have pictures of how the clips for the door weatherstripping are supposed to be in stalled in relation to the weatherstripping itself? Are they supposed to pinch the weatherstripping right down? That doesn't seem right to me...

Cheers,
Dion

64shortbed · Post by **64shortbed** » January 18, 2011, 12:29 am

I wish I would have read this before putting mine on. My doors were off, but Uncle Skip's step by step would have been handy (especially the part about washing the rubber and using blue tape). That job was a pain in the ......