A few odds and ends questions....
A few odds and ends questions....
To start, I scrolled through all 137 pages in the last 2 days and have to say, for a newbie like myself... there is ALOT of useful info on this board. I found quite a bit of info on the questions that I'm going to ask, but they were on older posts so I wanted to hear opinions since some time has past.
1. My Slick is a 65 longbed, 352, 4 speed. I'm going to be ordering the DJM beams and doing a flip in the rear. In the rear.... will a c-notch (such as a 5" pipe cut in half) be sufficient or do I need a larger notch for clearance?
2. On the 352... I have read alot of complaints on headers for this motor such as starter clearance. I know headers for the most part require maintenance such as bolt tightening and collectors, are they worth the effort? Are the stock manifolds that restricting?
3. On the 352 again.... my plans are to run an aluminum intake with a 4 barrel carb. What is a good aftermarket carb? or is there a good replacement aluminum intake from another combo?
4. I would also like to swap out to a C6.... from what I have read I know that I need the round top bellhousing for this engine. Are there any clearance issues with the trans and the floor?
I know these questions have been beatin to death but I want to make sure I know what Im in for before I tackle these mods.
1. My Slick is a 65 longbed, 352, 4 speed. I'm going to be ordering the DJM beams and doing a flip in the rear. In the rear.... will a c-notch (such as a 5" pipe cut in half) be sufficient or do I need a larger notch for clearance?
2. On the 352... I have read alot of complaints on headers for this motor such as starter clearance. I know headers for the most part require maintenance such as bolt tightening and collectors, are they worth the effort? Are the stock manifolds that restricting?
3. On the 352 again.... my plans are to run an aluminum intake with a 4 barrel carb. What is a good aftermarket carb? or is there a good replacement aluminum intake from another combo?
4. I would also like to swap out to a C6.... from what I have read I know that I need the round top bellhousing for this engine. Are there any clearance issues with the trans and the floor?
I know these questions have been beatin to death but I want to make sure I know what Im in for before I tackle these mods.
- ezernut9mm
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the only question i can answer is the floor clearance for the c6. since your truck was originally a 4sp then you should have the removable high hump. if so, then you will have enough clearance to run the c6.
always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
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I'd go with a built up notch made from flat plate, you axle tube will be about 4" so I go 6" pipe if you go that route. Be sure you box the frame about 6" minimum either side of the C notch.
On the headers - all headers are a PITA to some extent. The stock 352 manifolds are pretty bad by comparison but if your running a 2 bbl and single exhaust for example they are only a small part of the restriction. A heat shield for the starter with any close fit headers is wise idea.
Any low rise dual plane intake is going to be fine on an otherwise stock or mildly built engine - I'd think a 650 CFM should be sufficient. If you port, polish the heads, run a healthy but streetable cam, and a good exhaust system maybe go up to 700 CFM.
Hope that helps.
On the headers - all headers are a PITA to some extent. The stock 352 manifolds are pretty bad by comparison but if your running a 2 bbl and single exhaust for example they are only a small part of the restriction. A heat shield for the starter with any close fit headers is wise idea.
Any low rise dual plane intake is going to be fine on an otherwise stock or mildly built engine - I'd think a 650 CFM should be sufficient. If you port, polish the heads, run a healthy but streetable cam, and a good exhaust system maybe go up to 700 CFM.
Hope that helps.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
with the c6 be prepared to slide the front crossmember forward to clear the trans just for the installation.
Mini starter is a good idea. definitely insulate it I went through 3 std starters in a year. you have to remove the header to remove the starter.
Run your exhaust up over the tranny crossmember it will be tight with headers and c6.
Mini starter is a good idea. definitely insulate it I went through 3 std starters in a year. you have to remove the header to remove the starter.
Run your exhaust up over the tranny crossmember it will be tight with headers and c6.
First, the 352 is a good motor but not a high performance engine. As far as headers are concerned, there is a very good alternative. In the early 60's Ford made high erformance cast iron headers. Both short and long.A set of long tubes just went off on Ebay for a steal price at less than 800. Having said that, the short tube headers are running around 500 now, since these have been repoped. Don't have to worry about starter with short headers, and are a factory item, that doesn't need to be messed with once installed. Quieter engine campartment and cab. Noise goes out rear where you want it. As to intake , keep and eye out for one on Craigslist used, but be carefull to watch for pitting around water ports where mounting to the heads. You can buy one for 100 to 125 if you watch and wait. Cast iron intakes run about 50 give or take. A cam ould most likely help your engine, but a 352 is a low compression engine. What would help the 352 is a set of better higher compression heads. There is a set of Coaz D heads on Ebay or was with larger valves for sale for around 650 last Ilooked. These are about as high a compression stock head as you can get. Since the CJ size valve have already been installed. This would be a good head no matter what you use these on. I think these already have hardened seat installed, I think. The only thing you should remmember when using these heads. to keep compression down on a 390, you should consider using dished pistons. ONe other comment on intakes, the Edlebrock performer is rated about equal to an S code cast iron intake, but you loose about 50 pounds with the Edlebrock. S code is the Ford high performance cast intake. Another coment on headers ceramic coated headers help keep the heat out of the engine compartment and away from starters. I replaced one starter and then got a lifetime starter, and haven't had a problem in several years, and I drive my truck nearly every day. I have at least 20K on that starter. If I were you, I would contemplate buying a doner truck with a 390 and auto. Besides those goodies, you can also use the power steering and power disc brakes. Might find one with some of the engine goodies already on it.
It's all good.
Rich
It's all good.
Rich
http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/1579360640.html
Not my field but it probably fits
A 390/ C6 seems to be an easy to find package.
Tech
Not my field but it probably fits
A 390/ C6 seems to be an easy to find package.
Tech
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