Slick 60's

Found on CL
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/pts/1582026164.html

I have a set of those and if there are no cracks or broken bolt tabs that's an excellent price. I wouldn't sell mine for that. I never thought of using them on my 62 Uni if I put a 390 in it. From what I'm reading on another post, they should fit, correct ?

That price is a super steal, they are worth 1K-1250 in good shape based on the most recent eBay numbers (I have been watching as I have a set for sale). They will not fit a truck as they extend too far out from the block and run into the frame rails. Hawkrod

Hawkrod,
Thank you for the info. The set I have I'm selling also, to fund the new TTOs for my uni. It would be cool if they fit but I was hoping they didn't or I would have to have second thoughts.

If they're not cracked, they go for between $6-700.00 on eBay. I have them on my truck.
U@ss

Uncle Skip wrote:If they're not cracked, they go for between $6-700.00 on eBay. I have them on my truck.
U@ss

How did you get them on your truck? I measured and was going to have to trim too much to use them. BTW, last 3 sets on eBay cleared 1K. They were all nice and detailed but $600 is too low to sell them for as is and $350 is giving them away. Hawkrod

I know if I was in Dallas, I would be on my way to get them with cash in hand if they are truly the factory cast headers for 63/64.
That is a good deal!!

One side has a C2AE # & the other side has C8AE Not a matched pair.

36truck wrote:One side has a C2AE # & the other side has C8AE Not a matched pair.

Well that does make a difference, guess I'll stay home

HawkRod and others.
When I did my truck, I cut out the old transmission cross member and used a Trans-adapt unit with a home made custom transmission mount for my C-6.
I left enough on the drivers side to keep the e-brake mount, but took the passenger side completely out.
And, I had the front dog house off the truck so I didn't have any access problems while I put the motor in.
(The shorty's will go in with the fenders on, but they're kind of heavy and bolting them up is tedious because of clearance and access.)
Before I secured the front cross member, I positioned the motor to clear the firewall and I had about an inch and a half header clearance on the steering box. Wasn't a problem. But you can get a little more if you move the motor forward a little bit. Just make sure you have fan and/ or pulley clearance on the very front cross member.
I think I have pictures in my album. If not I'd be happy to put them up if anyone wants to see them.
U@ss

betfm wrote:

36truck wrote:One side has a C2AE # & the other side has C8AE Not a matched pair.

Well that does make a difference, guess I'll stay home

That's not a C8 it's a crappy C3. I couldn't find a C8AE-D manifold, here's what I found.

C2AE-9430-B 62-64 406 427 Passenger side matched with C3AE-9431-D
C3AE-9431-D 63-64 406 427 Driver side matched with C2AE-9430-B
http://crazy4cars.net/showthread.php?t=1846

It looks more like a S than anything so I went with 8. Good that you made that correction.

bluebolt wrote:

betfm wrote:

36truck wrote:One side has a C2AE # & the other side has C8AE Not a matched pair.

Well that does make a difference, guess I'll stay home

That's not a C8 it's a crappy C3. I couldn't find a C8AE-D manifold, here's what I found.

C2AE-9430-B 62-64 406 427 Passenger side matched with C3AE-9431-D
C3AE-9431-D 63-64 406 427 Driver side matched with C2AE-9430-B
http://crazy4cars.net/showthread.php?t=1846

Yea, I didn't think there was such a thing as a C8 and figured it was a C3. Some of those casting numbers are hard to make out. The C3 would be the correct mate for the C2AE-9430-B on a 427 engine.

They must be sold the post has been deleted.

36truck wrote:One side has a C2AE # & the other side has C8AE Not a matched pair.

They were definitely a matched pair as everyone has already pointed out. The numbers were irrelevant as there were no others like them. They could only be one thing and that made them a pair. It was actually an easy ID. Hawkrod

BTW
Hawkrod.
Thanks for pointing out the current value of the headers. I probably won't be selling mine any time soon, but its nice to know the true value.
I wonder what my original tri-power is worth now?
Thanks again.
U@ss

Uncle Skip wrote:BTW
Hawkrod.
I wonder what my original tri-power is worth now?
Thanks again.
U@ss

I seen 2 at the Colorado Goodguys this year-(same guy had them both) 1 was missing air cleaner and some linkage, it had the correct carbs and metering blocks- it was $600.00. The other one had the correct linkage, carbs metering blocks and air cleaner( except the top was aftermarket. It was $1000.00.
Neither sold the 2 days I was there.
Both were a good deal I thought, I still passed.
Good clean complete original working sets that are not cracked or any tapped holes stripped out are worth about $1500.

Just sold an 63 dated tri-power on eBay. Funny thing was that it went to Carl's Ford parts for $1600 and he whined about some stuff so we gave him his money back and sold the parts again but broke it up and got $1850+. We had the correct linkage, fuel filter, lines, carbs and air cleaner but it all needed detailing. the fuel filter got almost $400! Hawkrod

does anybody have a pic of the headers? the link is dead

bob

Hawkrod wrote: the fuel filter got almost $400! Hawkrod

Original fuel filters are rare, I got a NOS one, can't decide whether to use it on my set-up or sell it on Ebay and not use one. . Decisions-Decisions?? $400.00 would sway me to sell it.