Rusty 63 F100 + 04 CV PI

Rusty 63 · Post by **Rusty 63** » December 14, 2010, 8:30 pm

I fgure it'd be less work to notch & box/gusset it than to cut the whole thing out.

SixtySix Ford · Post by **SixtySix Ford** » December 15, 2010, 11:12 am

Looks like shes coming along great rusty!

Are you going to keep the 4.6 EFI or swap over to carb?

Rusty 63 · Post by **Rusty 63** » December 19, 2010, 4:47 am

MadMaxetc wrote:
jwh f-100 wrote:Personally I wouldn't even consider drilling the springs or moving hangers. Leave it as is and have a driveshaft made..

BTW, looks great. I want to do something similar on my next project..

Moving the hangers is to get the axle where he wants it in the wheel well...it also happens to solve his driveshaft issue.

Also, that Police Issue CV driveshaft is Aluminum. If I was back in NJ (with all the gearhead shops in the area) I'd have a much better shot than down here in SW FL where you can't find a decent mechanic that doesn't charge more than Doctor's wages per hour of shop time!

Rusty 63 · Post by **Rusty 63** » December 19, 2010, 4:49 am

SixtySix Ford wrote:Looks like shes coming along great rusty! Are you going to keep the 4.6 EFI or swap over to carb?

Thanks! Keeping the 4.6 EFI.

I'll have a few nights (weeks?) in Hades trying to figure out the harness - or give up & pay the Detail Zone or someone like them to redo mine for me.

Rusty 63 · Post by **Rusty 63** » December 19, 2010, 4:58 am

Not a lot to report -- pulled the engine & the front end back out (it's getting easier every time), and cut my notch & boxing piece. Pics:

Cut a chunk out of a leftover scrap of framerail from the CV.

The trimmed piece & the notch.

Held in position.

I'll tack it into place, then get on with drilling the frame to move my suspension & engine forward. Bolt up the front end & then drop the engine back in to test fit before I get out the welder & burn it all in.

Let's hope for a productive day!

Rusty 63 · Post by **Rusty 63** » December 20, 2010, 6:09 am

Made up new boards - drilled 9/16" holes for alignment thru both of them - then used the suspension mount bolts to hold them together. At 9/16", the bolts actually threaded into the wood. Nice & tight & kept everything in line.

Drilled up the holes, slid the suspension under & refit the engine. Looks like the notch is perfect.

Here she is, finally nestled down where she should be....

Don't forget the rear is still on skates, so it'll come down a few inches & should sit pretty close to level.

LOADS of space behind the engine...

Couldn't resist pulling out the sheetmetal for a quick dress rehearsal.

And one with the center cap to complete the look.

Thinking I might like to paint the outer edge of the rim silver to mimic a trim ring.

kstones63 · Post by **kstones63** » December 20, 2010, 9:50 pm

Rusty 63 wrote:
SixtySix Ford wrote:Looks like shes coming along great rusty! Are you going to keep the 4.6 EFI or swap over to carb?

Thanks! Keeping the 4.6 EFI.

I'll have a few nights (weeks?) in Hades trying to figure out the harness - or give up & pay the Detail Zone or someone like them to redo mine for me.

My guess is that I will have at least 150 hours in sorting out and redoing the wiring harness in mine. If work was better I would be way ahead to buy the harness. Work has been really slow so I have the time to work on this.
I have traced out all the wires on the engine harness and documented them. If you want, I will send you a copy if you think it will help make your decision on which way to go. My engine is the 4.6 DOHC - 95 Mark VIII. I'm not sure about any differences with SOHC.

Kevin

Rusty 63 · Post by **Rusty 63** » December 21, 2010, 6:12 am

Kevin:

I think I'd appreciate it for reference, at least. Initially I figured I'd string the CV harness through & around & hook up all the little black boxes to get it running. Then face the dilemma of how to clean it all up!

What was your MO for deciding what was necessary & what not?

kstones63 · Post by **kstones63** » December 23, 2010, 10:38 am

I bought a service manual and the electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual off of ebay. It is a must have for tracking the wiring. I then laid all the harness out on my patio to sort it out. I followed every wire from where it ended all the way back to the fuse box or wherever it started. If it connected in with other wires I follwed them out to see where they went. The service manuals will tell you what all the black boxes are for and it is easy to know what to delete when you know what they do.
What took the longest is that so many of the wires tie into other items and you start chasing one wire, it tees off to two other wires and you end up chasing a completely different wires before you get back to the original.
Look in my build thread and I have a couple of pics of the before and after harness.
Once you get going, the wires delete pretty fast.
The most important thing that you can do is get a wire number sticker book from Home Depot(electric dept.), number all your wires that you think you may need and make lots of notes where they go, what they do and what fuse they go to.
I have to scan some papers into the computer and then I can post them. These papers are for the 42 pin connector at the engine and where all of these wires go to.
I wouldn't run the wires in the truck as it will be a whole lot easier to get rid of most of it laying on the floor. Once it's in the truck it will be harder to cut off all covers and tape. Some of these wires originate on the left side of the car at the back, go up into the dash and then over onto the right side of the car.
I hope I didn't scare you.

Kevin

Rusty 63 · Post by **Rusty 63** » December 24, 2010, 6:41 am

When I finished pulling all of the wires out of the CV I had a vision of how much of a bear this is going to be - no scaring me off now, LOL.

I'll keep chipping away at the mechanical aspects, & make my decision when I get there. Good thing is that when I pulled everything out, I labeled where the wires ran & where the connectors connected, where the boxes sat, etc, so when I get to this point I'll at least have an inkling of what it is I'm eyeballing!

What's going to make it more interesting for me is I want to hang onto my anitilock braking, and a bunch of other accessories that most just delete...

Trying to get through the mess on my desk so I can get a little garage time today. Wish me luck.

& Merry Christmas, everyone!

Rusty 63 · Post by **Rusty 63** » December 25, 2010, 6:20 am

Kevin:
So looking back at your thread, you've wired the truck with an aftermarket harness & you're just trimming the engine harness down to run the engine, right?

I was thinking I might just use the CV harness to run the whole truck...

Post by **Greg D** » December 25, 2010, 10:36 am

Using the whole harness to run the truck is actually a great idea - probably a bit of work though.
No patching together a harness or mating 2 harnesses together if you want to upgrade to power windows etc.
Since you are using the A/C what are you using for a heater/AC box in the cab?
I have considered using a Fox Chassis Mustang/T-Bird etc box in a Slick - should be small enough to fit up under the dash fairly well.

Rusty 63 · Post by **Rusty 63** » December 25, 2010, 1:08 pm

I was thinking of using a repro 65-66 mustang underdash ac unit... but not sure if they have a provision for a defog/defrost ducts.

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » December 25, 2010, 2:49 pm

Ken used the kit that is made for the slicks and it does fit realy well.

Rusty 63 · Post by **Rusty 63** » December 25, 2010, 4:10 pm

Which Ken & what kit? ;0)

Brian Taylor · Post by **Brian Taylor** » December 25, 2010, 5:19 pm

PFM used a kit that bolted right in, it is in his build thread.
http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... &start=120
Custom auto air

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » December 25, 2010, 9:52 pm

Rusty 63 wrote:Which Ken & what kit? ;0)

castruck. Think it was custom auto air...not sure.

kstones63 · Post by **kstones63** » December 26, 2010, 10:47 am

Rusty 63 wrote:Kevin:
So looking back at your thread, you've wired the truck with an aftermarket harness & you're just trimming the engine harness down to run the engine, right?

I was thinking I might just use the CV harness to run the whole truck...

That is correct. I used the American Autowire harness in my truck. I am only dealing with the engine management part of the harness.
The biggest problems that I see with using the entire harness would be the location of all the parts from the CV to where they would go in your truck. There is still a lot of things that would need to be cut out and get rid of.(i.e interior lights above the back seats, trunk release, etc.)
I can't imagine trying to leave the factory harness and apapt it over to other aftermarket accessories. I think that it would be feasible to do if your are going to adapt over the factory dash asssembly into your truck.
My opinion would be that it would be easier to use an aftemarket wiring harness and then adapt in what you need out of the CV.
The anti-lock braking could be used in the truck. There are a lot of wires going to that but it could be sorted out and used. If I remember right from my harness, I think that the anti-lock brake harness is pretty much self supporting. The hardest part with that will probably be getting the sensors adapted over to the axles and spindles. That will be an interesting project and probably worth the extra effort.

Kevin

Rusty 63 · Post by **Rusty 63** » December 26, 2010, 11:48 am

I'm keeping the cv axles front & rear, so...

Robert · Post by **Robert** » January 1, 2011, 9:04 pm

what would be the best way to lower a crown vic front end