Rusty 63 F100 + 04 CV PI
Thanks for the info on your other thread. I agree with you that there was no problem, but the powers that be will be.
I am in the same place with my 63 f100, almost done the cv install. What are your ideas for the steering? Use the stock column and adapt to the cv power rack & pinion?
Your thread has helped me out alot, thanks for the motivation. Keep up the good work!
I am in the same place with my 63 f100, almost done the cv install. What are your ideas for the steering? Use the stock column and adapt to the cv power rack & pinion?
Your thread has helped me out alot, thanks for the motivation. Keep up the good work!
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- Posts: 76
- Joined: May 26, 2009, 3:44 pm
If you were wondering why my progress hit a wall
We found out about 6 weeks ago that we're having a baby!
So my project has kinda taken a back seat to getting the rest of life in order... not to mention the funding that was earmarked for toys is pretty much getting earmarked for Mini-me - at least for a while.
Just thought I'd share.
So my project has kinda taken a back seat to getting the rest of life in order... not to mention the funding that was earmarked for toys is pretty much getting earmarked for Mini-me - at least for a while.
Just thought I'd share.
CONGRATS!!!
You and I are kind of in the same boat! We are expecting too, but I don't have to put the project on hold yet!
As for the column. Column Saver from CPP will work for you. Basicaly you cut your old column and it is a bearing and end fitting that goes on the column. It will allow you to use a stock column with the CV or any other swap.
http://www.classicperform.com/Instructi ... /CPBCS.pdf
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0904c ... oints.html
You and I are kind of in the same boat! We are expecting too, but I don't have to put the project on hold yet!
As for the column. Column Saver from CPP will work for you. Basicaly you cut your old column and it is a bearing and end fitting that goes on the column. It will allow you to use a stock column with the CV or any other swap.
http://www.classicperform.com/Instructi ... /CPBCS.pdf
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0904c ... oints.html
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW
Hey congratulations Paul!, nice work another slickster!
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
-
- Posts: 291
- Joined: April 15, 2010, 12:25 am
- Location: Paso Robles, Ca
japedo
Rusty 63 wrote:Yeah - our first!
It's not just the baby putting the brakes on the spending - I'm about to pull the permit to build a new model home (that's what we do), and that's going to take alotta mula!
Fortunately, I've got most of what I need to keep on working - other than time at the moment.
Congradulations on the baby! Ive got a 2 1/2 year old and a 8 month old, it's amazing how fun it is to wake up every day to a little one smiling and happy to see you! Kid's are awesome!
THey are funny to, my oldest girl asked me if the rocket ship was done. She was referring to the 66 F100. lol she had just watched a cartoon with a rocket ship and figured that must be waht I am building in the garage. lol
Japedo
Twig & Berries
Had our scan today - it's a boy!
- olliesshop
- Posts: 737
- Joined: May 16, 2010, 8:38 am
- Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan (Detroit Metro)
- Contact:
CONGRATULATIONS !!!
Tim - 1961 F250 Uni
"Big Red" pictures ... http://olliesshop.smugmug.com/Trucks
Current build thread ... viewtopic.php?f=32&t=29505
"Big Red" pictures ... http://olliesshop.smugmug.com/Trucks
Current build thread ... viewtopic.php?f=32&t=29505
- 1965fordf100
- Posts: 483
- Joined: February 25, 2008, 3:32 pm
- Location: Reno, NV
On our 3rd baby name book! Most of the names she likes belong to some idiot I went to school with who deserved to have his teeth knocked in. Most of the ones I like belong to an idiot she teaches... so unless we find one we both like that doesn't remind us of some jackass we know, we'll have to settle for a least offensive option, or make him the 3rd....
Keep trying to get back in the garage, but lately been short on time too... we're in the process of building a new model home, and working with customers for remodels & new builds, and oh yeah, I'm president of my HOA & also incoming President of the Builder's Assn. Whew.
At least my daydreaming build time has helped me come up with a plan of attack for completing the front end install... if I can just get some garage time... LOL
Actually, the best part is that the heat finally broke, so when I do get some time I won't be melting out there!
Keep trying to get back in the garage, but lately been short on time too... we're in the process of building a new model home, and working with customers for remodels & new builds, and oh yeah, I'm president of my HOA & also incoming President of the Builder's Assn. Whew.
At least my daydreaming build time has helped me come up with a plan of attack for completing the front end install... if I can just get some garage time... LOL
Actually, the best part is that the heat finally broke, so when I do get some time I won't be melting out there!
So I finally got out in the garage yesterday!
Had read a guy's post on Fordification that showed the measurements for how he set up a pair of boards to sit atop & under the frame rails - sandwiching the rails so that the holes all lined up. Sounded like a great way to go, so I had drawn templates up in AutoCad, measured & taped them to the wood, used a center punch to mark the wood, drilled the pilot holes & then started to line them up to mark & drill the frame rails.
Guess what? The dimensions on his front end differ from mine!
My alignment pins are 31.5" tip to tip. His were 32". Nothing lined up!
Here's his diagram:
http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu22 ... NSTALL.jpg
I'm reworking mine & will post the files as pdf's so anyone following in my footsteps should )theoretically) be able to print them out & use them.
At least I did get something accomplished. I sliced & diced the CV framerail stubs to get the "tubes" out.
I used a shelf standard as a straight edge and cut the frame rail leaving the metal strip intact:
Now when I drill the upper rail with the hole saw, the tubes will drop right in & I can box from the CV rail slice down to the 63 rails...
Seems like a lot of effort, but they're factory, were essentially "free" since I scrapped the car, and what most folks don't realize is - they're threaded! The top of the factory tubes are threaded, and those big factory bolts run up through the bottom of the CV crossmember, into the tubes & thread into the top of these tubes. The factory cap nuts are just lock nuts. The installation should be stronger for it, I think....
Going to finalize my drawings & redo the wood sandwich & drill the rails this morning.
I also came up with an idea on how I'm going to address the rear control arm mounts. More on that later...
Had read a guy's post on Fordification that showed the measurements for how he set up a pair of boards to sit atop & under the frame rails - sandwiching the rails so that the holes all lined up. Sounded like a great way to go, so I had drawn templates up in AutoCad, measured & taped them to the wood, used a center punch to mark the wood, drilled the pilot holes & then started to line them up to mark & drill the frame rails.
Guess what? The dimensions on his front end differ from mine!
My alignment pins are 31.5" tip to tip. His were 32". Nothing lined up!
Here's his diagram:
http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu22 ... NSTALL.jpg
I'm reworking mine & will post the files as pdf's so anyone following in my footsteps should )theoretically) be able to print them out & use them.
At least I did get something accomplished. I sliced & diced the CV framerail stubs to get the "tubes" out.
I used a shelf standard as a straight edge and cut the frame rail leaving the metal strip intact:
Now when I drill the upper rail with the hole saw, the tubes will drop right in & I can box from the CV rail slice down to the 63 rails...
Seems like a lot of effort, but they're factory, were essentially "free" since I scrapped the car, and what most folks don't realize is - they're threaded! The top of the factory tubes are threaded, and those big factory bolts run up through the bottom of the CV crossmember, into the tubes & thread into the top of these tubes. The factory cap nuts are just lock nuts. The installation should be stronger for it, I think....
Going to finalize my drawings & redo the wood sandwich & drill the rails this morning.
I also came up with an idea on how I'm going to address the rear control arm mounts. More on that later...
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW
nothing wrong with your thinking Paul!, looks good to me!
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
Measure twice...?
AAAAARRRGH!
The drilling went fine, the CV pieces dropped right in. I slid the CV suspension under & jacked it into position to run the bolts up in & check the fit. And guess what? It didn't!
I had double, triple, quadruple checked every dimension except one - the fore/aft location of the locating pins in relation to the bolt holes. I mean, he couldn't have gotten them wrong...
Maybe not wrong but definitely different than mine.
So now I'm left with a dilemma - do I elongate the pin holes & let the axle centerline slide back 1/2" (still 1/4" forward of stock) - or do I weld up all the donuts I just drilled out, and drill new holes 1/2" further forward?
If you recall from earlier posts, I'd decided to slide the front end 3/4" forward to better center the tires in the wheel wells.
What do you think?
Pics...
The drilling went fine, the CV pieces dropped right in. I slid the CV suspension under & jacked it into position to run the bolts up in & check the fit. And guess what? It didn't!
I had double, triple, quadruple checked every dimension except one - the fore/aft location of the locating pins in relation to the bolt holes. I mean, he couldn't have gotten them wrong...
Maybe not wrong but definitely different than mine.
So now I'm left with a dilemma - do I elongate the pin holes & let the axle centerline slide back 1/2" (still 1/4" forward of stock) - or do I weld up all the donuts I just drilled out, and drill new holes 1/2" further forward?
If you recall from earlier posts, I'd decided to slide the front end 3/4" forward to better center the tires in the wheel wells.
What do you think?
Pics...
Wow. I definitely don't have the skills you do so I can't really give good advice. But I think if it was me, I'd elongate those puppies.
But how badly do you want those wheels centered?
Awesome build!
But how badly do you want those wheels centered?
Awesome build!
64 Ford F100 Flareside
68 Ford XL Convertible
87 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
94 Ford Mustang GT Convertible
02 Ford Mustang GT
18 Ford F150 XLT
68 Ford XL Convertible
87 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
94 Ford Mustang GT Convertible
02 Ford Mustang GT
18 Ford F150 XLT