points or pertronix
- slickmainer
- Posts: 2555
- Joined: October 8, 2007, 6:41 pm
- Location: Auburn Maine
- Contact:

points or pertronix
I was wanting to get a feel for the need of having points. Im new to this so forgive me in my most basic of questions. I saw points being changed once and I only recall someone saying "now don't do this" followed by a laugh. Is this a worthwhile upgrade? how long to points last? Is there something better than the ignitor 2 without spending $100s
--Gregg--
you can't get there from here
you can't get there from here
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas

- slickmainer
- Posts: 2555
- Joined: October 8, 2007, 6:41 pm
- Location: Auburn Maine
- Contact:

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ICEMAN6166
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842

i will keep my points.
simple ,inexpensive and easily changed.
been doing them so long i can eyeball the gap close enough for the engine to run.
i check mine with the dwell meter when i change my oil and reset if necessary. i only buy USA made standard blue streak points and ignition components.generally i can get a couple years out of a set depending on how many miles are driven.
cost prohibits carrying a spare new pertronix in the glovebox,so most people i know with pertronix keep a set of points in the box in case they need a roadside repair as pertronix are not readily available in the parts stores.
points do require a bit more maintenance to ensure they gap is correct but to me its not an issue.
now i sit back and let the rest of the folks tell me how i am stuck with ancient technology and i should "upgrade".
fact is i have had the pertronix on an engine and noticed no improvement over the points other than not needing to check the gap/dwell.
simple ,inexpensive and easily changed.
been doing them so long i can eyeball the gap close enough for the engine to run.
i check mine with the dwell meter when i change my oil and reset if necessary. i only buy USA made standard blue streak points and ignition components.generally i can get a couple years out of a set depending on how many miles are driven.
cost prohibits carrying a spare new pertronix in the glovebox,so most people i know with pertronix keep a set of points in the box in case they need a roadside repair as pertronix are not readily available in the parts stores.
points do require a bit more maintenance to ensure they gap is correct but to me its not an issue.
now i sit back and let the rest of the folks tell me how i am stuck with ancient technology and i should "upgrade".
fact is i have had the pertronix on an engine and noticed no improvement over the points other than not needing to check the gap/dwell.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
- charliemccraney
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: July 9, 2008, 10:02 pm
- Location: Lawrenceville, GA
I'd go with points over Pertronix because of the availability issue. What engine are you running? You might be able to simply swap a duraspark II from the junk yard. It'll cost less than $100. With Duraspark, you can get replacement parts at any parts store. Upgraded Duraspark will eat Pertronix for lunch.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
Last edited by dwbr on February 7, 2011, 12:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
- slickmainer
- Posts: 2555
- Joined: October 8, 2007, 6:41 pm
- Location: Auburn Maine
- Contact:

I respect and value both that replied so thank you. honestly I don't know what my new one comes with, so i was just asking. Is there a how to anywhere for changing the points safely?
240 and T18 4sp
240 and T18 4sp
Last edited by slickmainer on March 12, 2010, 12:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
--Gregg--
you can't get there from here
you can't get there from here
-
ICEMAN6166
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842

only safety related thing regarding changing points is make sure the key is off. that way you are not making sparks close to the carburetor.slickmainer wrote:I respect and value both that replied so thank you. honestly I don't know what my new one comes with, so i was just asking. Is there a how to anywhere for changing the points safely?
240 and T18 4sp
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
Petronix, will make the engine run like a totally different engine. Unbelievable how much better it runs. This is what I run now on all my y blocks. Won't mess with a set of points again unless forced to. Occasionaly I run points as I don't want to spend the money to convert, if I'm selling the truck.
Rich
Rich
- bobenhotep
- Posts: 911
- Joined: January 9, 2007, 4:15 am
- Location: Las Cruces, NM
- Contact:

if yer runnin a 240 get a dsII and a HEI module.
For every person with a spark of genius, there are a hundred with ignition trouble
My '63 short wrongbed
"The Iron Rhino"
300 I6, 3 spd manual, DS II/ HEI ignition.
Stuff I added to Hints and tricks
-300-6 choke tube repair
-duraspark II/ HEI
-Horn ring contact tube repair
-turn signal indicator fix
Mikhail Kalashnikov and Nikola Tesla are the guys i think of when i build things.

My '63 short wrongbed
"The Iron Rhino"
300 I6, 3 spd manual, DS II/ HEI ignition.
Stuff I added to Hints and tricks
-300-6 choke tube repair
-duraspark II/ HEI
-Horn ring contact tube repair
-turn signal indicator fix
Mikhail Kalashnikov and Nikola Tesla are the guys i think of when i build things.

-
flareside64
- Posts: 327
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 2:19 pm
- Location: Lenox Twp, Michigan

You can keep an extra Pertronix dizzy module in the glove box too, I do - only takes up the same space as the points.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
- ezernut9mm
- Posts: 9141
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 9:37 pm
- Location: KCMO

i will do pertronix on my 66 and 70 when i get around to affording them. i had it on my 68 360 and it was dead nuts reliable.
always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
My choices are, in order of preference: 1, dura spark distrubiter with MSD controller box and E coil. 2, dura spark distrubiter with stock controller box and E coil. Points as a last resort. As you can see I don't like stock coils, E coils are more reliable and provide a hotter spark. To convert most Ford distrubiters to magnetic pickup is too easy and elemanates all the messing around with points and I have had only one duraspark box fail me ever. The E coil needs a 12 volt switiched power source not the reduced voltage from the ignition switch
For a 240, a straight DSII distributor swapped in from a 70's 300 wouldl be an excellent upgrade. Then spend $15 for an extra module in the glove box and you will have reliablility AND performace.
For me, to keep original appearances, I went with a Pertronix Ignotor II.
One person asked about Ignitor I versus Ignitor II.
I favor the Ignitor II. It has a variable dwell, which gives slightly better high RPM performance. BUT, more importantly, the Ignitor II has overload protection, so if you leave the switch on, it won't burn up. The Ignitor I will *sometimes* cook itself if you leave the switch on.
For me, to keep original appearances, I went with a Pertronix Ignotor II.
One person asked about Ignitor I versus Ignitor II.
I favor the Ignitor II. It has a variable dwell, which gives slightly better high RPM performance. BUT, more importantly, the Ignitor II has overload protection, so if you leave the switch on, it won't burn up. The Ignitor I will *sometimes* cook itself if you leave the switch on.

