Greg D's Traditional Build of a 1964 F 250

Post by **Greg D** » December 4, 2010, 11:56 pm

SixtySix Ford wrote: I would also go with some flow masters or MAC mufflers.

Nah, I like my glasspacks.

Post by **Greg D** » January 1, 2011, 12:02 pm

Bit's & pieces & more bit's & pieces.
That's all my build is about right now.
Got the first piece back from sandblasting - drivers side inner fender.
It had a crease on the inside I had to shrink out - it's not perfect but you'll have to look pretty hard for it.
Fresh bare metal;

Good coat of etching primer primer. For pieces that I end up rattle canning I have been using Rustoleum Self Etching Primer - you about can't get this stuff off.

The underside will be sprayed with aerosol bedliner, the top will be painted.
I was considering shooting it this weekend, I will wait.
If you look at the engine pics you'll see the Fox Mustang clutch cable I may use. The inner fender may need clearanced for the cable so I'll wait on the coatings - hate cute into fresh paint.
There are 2 bead edged areas on the lower portion - the one just behind the shock mount bulge is in just about the right place for where the cable goes over the frame.
I may have gotten lucky.

weezle · Post by **weezle** » January 2, 2011, 9:20 pm

Very purty...Love the look of freshly blasted panels.

Mctim64 · Post by **Mctim64** » January 2, 2011, 11:46 pm

Nice truck Greg, I like the idea of the Y-block better though. lol

Post by **Greg D** » January 3, 2011, 7:37 pm

Mctim64 wrote:Nice truck Greg, I like the idea of the Y-block better though. lol

Thanks Tim,
it was quite the find especially around here in the rust belt.
I have the Y that came out still, it's a good one too.
It was in the truck using car mounts, I have a car 3 speed bell for a Y here too. It could end up back in the truck someday. I'll likely leave it a 5.0 - much easier when I upgrade this truck to power steering, A/C, etc.
The Y will probably end up in a T, A or something along those lines (would love to find an Essex, lol).

Bill W · Post by **Bill W** » January 3, 2011, 7:59 pm

I didn't know Rustoleum had a self etching primer in a rattle can? i'm gonna have to look for that next time

Post by **Greg D** » January 3, 2011, 8:14 pm

They sell it at Autozone here Bill. The Ace hardware has a good selection of Rustoleum products but doesn't carry the Etching Primer.
Be warned - the stuff lays heavy and on out side body panels will need a little attention with a Scotchbrite pad. Seems to seal well too
I like Dupli Color's Self Etching too and it tends to lay down a little lighter & smoother. Keep it inside til it's coated though - UV gets to it and doesn't seal as well as the Rustoleum.

Bill W · Post by **Bill W** » January 3, 2011, 8:27 pm

i will look for it next time i'm there!

Thanks.

I'm not a big fan of duplicolor products i mostly use Dupont or Nason which is made by dupont.

i have had real good luck with Imron 3.5 i used it on my frame and running gear

Post by **Greg D** » January 3, 2011, 8:33 pm

I will be painting the 64 with Dupli Color's Paint shop paints - not "out of the can" colors though.
Those paints are lacquer - I LOVE lacquer!

66ford · Post by **66ford** » January 4, 2011, 6:28 am

Greg D wrote:
SixtySix Ford wrote: I would also go with some flow masters or MAC mufflers.

Nah, I like my glasspacks.

Flowmaster's are the way to go!, We have the 352, with flowmaster 44 series. Love them. Loud when u want them to be. Quite while idling... But you always know it's there.

Post by **Greg D** » January 9, 2011, 7:36 pm

I have a few more front clip pieces in the XJ to go to the blaster tomorrow when I pick up the passenger inner fender. It was a little pitted under the battery tray but didn't "look" too bad - I'll find out tomorrow.
Nothing real exciting but keeps it moving forward.
Sorry - no new pics yet.

I may have found an ignition system.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-302 ... ccessories

Post by **Greg D** » January 10, 2011, 10:18 pm

Dropped off the upper valance, rock guard, and the 2 latch supports today. Didn't pick up the inner fender - it was snowing and I don't want moisture on a freshly blasted part. It only has one little hole under the battery tray - real easy fix. There was a nasty rust bubble over the brace - that will need a fill patch but I knew that before I dropped it off - business card size patch will do.
Picked up the rest of the new rod bearings today after work - mains are on order.
Checking on the dizzy in the link. That one sold but another Ebay store has more of them and a matching coil.
Need to find out if the drive gear is roller cam compatible or at least if the RC gear will fit the shaft.
I will call the other store tomorrow.

Post by **foodstick** » January 10, 2011, 10:25 pm

best fix for pitted battery tray..The CUSTOM battery mat

Post by **Greg D** » January 11, 2011, 11:14 pm

foodstick wrote:best fix for pitted battery tray..The CUSTOM battery mat

I have 2 or 3 nice trays here. Just need to pick one and take it to the blaster too. I may have it powder coated.

Post by **Greg D** » January 12, 2011, 8:27 pm

Picked up my passenger side inner fender and the 2 latch/valance supports at the blaster today. I have to find out what setting I messed up on my camera to get a pic though.

I called these people yesterday to ask a tech question about this dizzy - it passed so I bought it and the matching coil just a few minutes ago. I has everything I need simple clean looking 1 wire setup, has the hardened drive gear for the roller cam, vacuum advance, and free shipping to boot!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pro-Mag- ... ccessories

The coil.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-High ... ccessories

slickmainer · Post by **slickmainer** » January 13, 2011, 4:57 pm

what does the blaster cost you for each piece?

Post by **Greg D** » January 13, 2011, 9:37 pm

It kinda varies,
inner fenders $20 each, fenders & core support $40 each, upper valance $35, lower $20.
I have a blaster here and a large enough compressor - too cold out though and I won't do it in the garage. I either pay somebody to blast the front clip, or take it apart again later to do it.
Once the front clip goes back together I want to only have little body work to do minor imperfections really) and shoot it.

Post by **Greg D** » January 23, 2011, 5:35 pm

Working on the passenger side inner fender today. It has a rust bubble between the brace in the rear and the inner fender itself. I want most of the piece primed before I start cutting & grinding on it though - keep the rust shavings off the clean bare metal.
I welded up all the screw holes in it - I doubt seriously with the new headlight wiring, charging system & ignition that any of the original holes will be of any use to me. Have some metal filler drying on them now that will get smoothed before priming.

The spot that needs repaired.

Power by Ford · Post by **Power by Ford** » January 23, 2011, 7:05 pm

Looking good. Those inners have alot of holes when you start welding them up. Are you going to put rubber seal back on them or leave them without?

Post by **Greg D** » January 23, 2011, 7:17 pm

I will put a seal back in place. May see what I can find instead of what was on there though. I have the originals so I can make new ones.