Head/Engine Removal/Power Brakes

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » February 26, 2007, 12:42 pm

I saw a thread on this before and can't find it. Several methods of dealing with master cyl. and power brake booster. Since I'm not in a hurry, this is my thought. Pull the master cylinder and cap the lines as soon as they are removed. I have a collection of rubber caps just for things like this. It's been awhile since I pulled a brake booster but if I remember, the first thing is to unbolt the rod from the brake pedal under the dash. Then there looks to be 4 bolts that hold the brake booster. Now the reason I am posting this is because there are a lot of you folks way smarter than me about these trucks. I look to you to point out any and all flaws in my plan of attack.
Thanks

Slick Fan · Post by **Slick Fan** » February 26, 2007, 1:13 pm

Sounds like you've got it pretty good. I pulled that setup off my F250 last week & actually found it easier to unbolt the booster brackets from the firewall, than separating the booster from the brackets...

...then I dumped about a pint of brake fluid from the vacuum hole, no wonder that booster was bad. :shock:

Oh & if you have a pedal mounted brake switch, unplug it so your lights don't drain your battery.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » February 26, 2007, 2:03 pm

i usually do as slick fan said.if you worry about loose wires from the pedal switch, you can reverse the connections,the switch operation will then be reversed and the lights will stay off, or use a bungee to hold the pedal up.

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » February 26, 2007, 2:20 pm

Thanks men, I had forgotten about the brake light switch.