Slick 60's

I would like to buy some really good drill bits to help with my "resurrection projects". The so called "tungsten" bits I've bought from the auto parts stores aren't cheap and they don't stay sharp for crap. Any suggestions for a brand or a source? I'm willing to spend the money for something that's good and will stay sharp.

Your best bet might be getting one of the bit sharpeners, I have good things about them, don't ask kid for any tips though !

(inside joke)

I deal with a lot of broken bolts at work and have to drill bolt heads for safety wire and we use cobalt drill bits.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _7899_7899

Read the reviews.

i grew up in a machine shop we get most of our stuff from manhattan supply they carry most everything and you can setup an account with then and they also sell drill sharperners got to remember two types of drills colbalt and high speed also the way you grind them and the speed you drill at has a effect on the life of the drill oh and cutting oil helps too

foodstick wrote:Your best bet might be getting one of the bit sharpeners, I have good things about them, don't ask kid for any tips though !

(inside joke)

+1...You need a Drill Doctor.

Since good drill bits can get expensive, I bought a Drill Doctor awhile back, and am real happy with it. And I buy alot less bits.

I have a set of Hitachi Titanium coated - very good bits.
I bought one of these Pilot Point Dewalt's a while back and have worked it VERY hard - drilled 4 holes in my frame Sunday and it cut through it like it was hot butter - I WILL buy more of them!

http://www.drill-bits.biz/dewaltdwpiece.html

A drill doctor is a must have (I can't even begin to figure out how I got along without it) but the bits of choice are important to. A lot of people just go with HSS (high speed steel) and for sheetmetal and wood they are usually adequate but for any serious work I recommend either carbide or, my favorite, zirconium nitride coated bits. Carbide is an excellent tool but cost for benefit makes it difficult to justify the expense. The zirconium nitride bits are much more cost effective. They are long lasting and resharpenable as the cutting edge is still coated. I have had a large zirconium nitride set for a decade or so and although I have broken a few small bits, I have never worn any out beyond mild sharpening. They really are amazing. I don't know much about titanium nitride coated bits beyond what I have read but it also seems to be a great enhancer over a standard bit and seems to be a newer standard over the zirconium nitride (is it better or is it just cheaper? I have no experience). JMO Hawkrod

BTW Gerald,
if you are drilling spot welds the spot weld cutters Harbor Freight has actually work really well for the price and the cutter on them is double sided so it's like 2 for one. I bought 2 of them a couple years ago and still haven't flipped over the cutter on the first one - #2 is still in the package.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... eld+cutter

Grits, I do all of the buying for the machine shop I work in and lead. The best drill bits I've found and the only ones I buy for myself and the guys are either Precision Twist Drill or Cleveland brand. Both can be purchased from an outfit called MSC. My personal favorites are screw machine drills. They are about half the length of jobber drills and are easier to controll. Screw machine drills are available in both brands (MSC part #'s78582624 and 08839615 for the black oxide finish) For standard length drills the MSC part #'s are 78579232 and 08839573. If you log onto MSC Direct dot com and type in the numbers everything will come up. Chicago-Latrobe makes a good drill at a more reasonable price as well. I have found any of these brands hold up the best even under mild abuse. Hope this helps.

One more thing, look for split point drills in whatever brand you decide on. They start much easier in metal. A small can of Rapid Tap cutting fluid will go a long way as well.

those 2 sided drills work well

bit wrote:17 hundred rpm s or less is recomended. the slower you go the better the cut and longer it will last. if you are using a coated drill dont bother with trying to sharpen it for once you go through the coating you are just sharpening basic metal and for instance a spot weld is much stronger than the metal used in the drill. it is very interesting knowing how these things are built and coated. what i have told you is for regular drills when you get into what they use in a machine shop i have no 0 notta a lick of knowledge on those.

bit

Sharpening coated bits really is not an issue. The cutting edge is still coated after sharpening, you do not cut metal with the end of the bit, it cuts on the face of the flute and that part is still coated after sharpening, only the end is bare after sharpening. Hawkrod

huh

after thinking about it... Hawk is actually correct
when i worked at a machine shop, one of the first things i had to learn was to hand sharpen drill bits
# 1 is to have a good stone and grinder
# 2 you have to keep it cool = water container close by
# 3 for me now.... the use of glasses so i can see what im doing

Hand sharpening drill bits is fairly easy if you have a drill point gage. The gage helps you get the angle correct and also helps in getting the cutting lands the same length.

Thanks guys! Always amazed (though I shouldn't be by now) at the wealth of knowledge and expertise available from member on this site. As usual I got a lot of good information...probably too much . Now I have to sort through the options and make a decision.

BTW: In checking out the local options for some of the recommended bits, I stopped in at the local Fastenal store. Found out they have a bit sharpening service that's "dirt cheap" according to the salesman. Two day turn-around. May be a better alternative than the Drill Doctor ($100-150)?

The local Fastenal does a great business around here. I wasn't aware that they offer sharpening, but the way they take care of things, I bet it's good.