drilling a hole in intake
drilling a hole in intake
I want to drill and tap a hole on each side of the heater supply hose. One for an electric fan thermostat and the other in order to move the temp. gauge sending unit to the front of the engine.
Am I safe in doing this?
Am I safe in doing this?
1961 F350 pick up
1962
1963
1964
1965
1966 F350 camper
1962
1963
1964
1965
1966 F350 camper
or you could just use some Tee-fittings
it wont look as good, but would work
it wont look as good, but would work
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[b]'' I think what scares me the most about you guys is that I understand you '' ..... KID
'' lookin good, a little paint adds at least 100hp!'' ....... COOTER
'' well an old guy can dream cant he? ''............ICEMAN
''I would donate organs before selling my slick''........ HOOFBEAT RACER
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[b]'' I think what scares me the most about you guys is that I understand you '' ..... KID
'' lookin good, a little paint adds at least 100hp!'' ....... COOTER
'' well an old guy can dream cant he? ''............ICEMAN
''I would donate organs before selling my slick''........ HOOFBEAT RACER
- charliemccraney
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: July 9, 2008, 10:02 pm
- Location: Lawrenceville, GA
A lot of the time, instructions with sensors advise against using t's. It won't hurt to try it but don't be surprised if it doesn't work.
You could use one sensor and make a controller which both turns on the fan and sends a signal to the gauge. Maybe there is a product that already does this.
I think your fan switch can go into the thermostat housing since the fan will not come on until after the thermostat is open and coolant is flowing to the radiator.
You could use one sensor and make a controller which both turns on the fan and sends a signal to the gauge. Maybe there is a product that already does this.
I think your fan switch can go into the thermostat housing since the fan will not come on until after the thermostat is open and coolant is flowing to the radiator.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
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- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842
the tee i have installed for my temp sender works fine.
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the reason the sender is in the tee is because the cast iron 4v manifold had a 1/8 npt hole for the tiny (early) sender. so i came up with the tee, when i went to the edelbrock i just left it in.
[albumimg]559[/albumimg]
the reason the sender is in the tee is because the cast iron 4v manifold had a 1/8 npt hole for the tiny (early) sender. so i came up with the tee, when i went to the edelbrock i just left it in.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
What I'm really worried about is drilling a hole through an intake runner as I'm not familiar with a v8 intake. Icould take the thermostat out and look inside to see if there was enough room for 2 more sensors without drilling into other passages.
1961 F350 pick up
1962
1963
1964
1965
1966 F350 camper
1962
1963
1964
1965
1966 F350 camper
- don morris II
- Posts: 347
- Joined: November 18, 2008, 12:29 pm
- Location: Muskegon, MI
- charliemccraney
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: July 9, 2008, 10:02 pm
- Location: Lawrenceville, GA
I'd at least remove the thermostat housing. From there, the only place for the shavings to go is through the thermostat and into the radiator. It'll be a good idea to clean it out as best as you can. Really, I'd remove the intake and drill it on a drill press. On a 292, removing the intake is not a big job at all. Almost anywhere you drill, it will be thin so you need to make sure the hole is the right size for the tap to get good threads. I just don't have enough confidence in the steadiness of my hand to risk drilling it by hand.
You can tell where the coolant passage is from the outside of the intake. Use that as a guide and it is very unlikely that you will drill into an intake runner.
A thermostat housing extension will be difficult if not impossible to do. There isn't much room between the bypass nipple on the thermostat housing and the nipple on the water pump fitting for any kind of extension.
You can tell where the coolant passage is from the outside of the intake. Use that as a guide and it is very unlikely that you will drill into an intake runner.
A thermostat housing extension will be difficult if not impossible to do. There isn't much room between the bypass nipple on the thermostat housing and the nipple on the water pump fitting for any kind of extension.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
Hawkrod wrote:Tee fittings would not work as the sensors would not be submersed in flowing water. Hawkrodslick4x4 wrote:or you could just use some Tee-fittings
it wont look as good, but would work
if they are in contact with water they will work.... but probably not as accurately
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.
[b]'' I think what scares me the most about you guys is that I understand you '' ..... KID
'' lookin good, a little paint adds at least 100hp!'' ....... COOTER
'' well an old guy can dream cant he? ''............ICEMAN
''I would donate organs before selling my slick''........ HOOFBEAT RACER
.
.
[b]'' I think what scares me the most about you guys is that I understand you '' ..... KID
'' lookin good, a little paint adds at least 100hp!'' ....... COOTER
'' well an old guy can dream cant he? ''............ICEMAN
''I would donate organs before selling my slick''........ HOOFBEAT RACER
- unibody madness
- Posts: 2140
- Joined: December 4, 2008, 4:33 pm
- Location: Paradise,CALIFORNIA 95969
MY 1980 rabbit had a sensor mounted in the top portion of the tank for the automatic fan. you should also run a bypass switch to the dash in case your in traffic and the sensor goes out.
Comes in handy,trust me.
John
Comes in handy,trust me.
John
Turk build thread at:
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=18944
It does not matter what you think, it only matters what you do about it!
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=18944
It does not matter what you think, it only matters what you do about it!
I would be moounting the fan thermostat in the rad, as you want the radiator to get up to running temperatures quickly. The engine will heat up quicker and prematurely kick the fan in. If the tanks are on top/bottom, mount in the bottom, if the tanks are on the sides, go half way down.
Dean
Dean
61 Mercury SWB Uni - Project
62 Mercury SWB BBW - Race truck
63 Ford SWB Uni - Daily driver (Jinx)
63 Ford SWB Uni - Parts truck
62 Mercury SWB BBW - Race truck
63 Ford SWB Uni - Daily driver (Jinx)
63 Ford SWB Uni - Parts truck
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- Posts: 612
- Joined: July 28, 2006, 8:31 pm
- Location: Monroe NJ
58 Edsel came with a thermostat extension with a taped hole for the sensor if you could find one in a local junk yard. Be careful with them they crack easy. Tom
1966 F250 Camper Special parts truck
1966 F 100 w/391 ft
1965 F 100 project
1958 Edsel Pacer Convertible
1953 ford Customline 2 door
1952 8N
1967 triumph Bonneville
I'm still not a good welder but I've become a good grinder
1966 F 100 w/391 ft
1965 F 100 project
1958 Edsel Pacer Convertible
1953 ford Customline 2 door
1952 8N
1967 triumph Bonneville
I'm still not a good welder but I've become a good grinder