"292 Y-Block Good News"

Shadow · Post by **Shadow** » March 3, 2011, 8:35 pm

After Reading This Forum (Some Great Advice) I Decided To Invest In Rebuilding My Motor, Carburetor, And Brakes Before Any Cosmetic Work On My Truck. The 292 Y-Block Had 98K Original Miles On It. After Getting The Motor Apart No Major Problems!! Dry Top End But No Problems. Got To See The Block Fresh Out Of The Tank, Wow These Motors Were Really Built To Last. It Should Be Back In The Truck Next Week. Got All My Brake Parts While The Engine Was Gone Through, It Will Be Ready In time For Spring.. The Best Thing Is My Truck Was Out Of The Snow All Winter, And My Garage Is Getting Cleaned Out For Spring Early.... I Will Be Posting The Before And After Photos Soon!! Thanks, Ive Learned Alot About These Trucks In The Few Months Of Reading This Forum.....................................

62galxe · Post by **62galxe** » March 3, 2011, 9:27 pm

Glad its coming together. The 292 is a good motor. Thats what I ended up doin on my truck. Mechanical stuff fixed and just drive it.

Post by **Greg D** » March 3, 2011, 9:44 pm

62galxe wrote:Thats what I ended up doin on my truck. Mechanical stuff fixed and just drive it.

You wouldn't want to change that "Groovy" paint job anyway would you Kenny?

Astrowing · Post by **Astrowing** » March 3, 2011, 9:51 pm

The Y blocks and the FE's are awesome engines. It is amazing that they are over 50 years old and can run just as good as new. Try that with a 2010 Toyota in 2060!

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » March 3, 2011, 11:19 pm

Greg D wrote:
62galxe wrote:Thats what I ended up doin on my truck. Mechanical stuff fixed and just drive it.

You wouldn't want to change that "Groovy" paint job anyway would you Kenny?

I saw Kenny detailing his Slick at Altoona!, he wiped a coffee ring off the bonnet! ( Hood :roll:

)

62galxe · Post by **62galxe** » March 4, 2011, 6:12 am

the only reason i wont change my paintjob is because it entertains yall.

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » March 5, 2011, 10:56 am

Don't know what book your going by on the rebuild but two critical pieces of infor mation on y-blocks. One some books have the timing messed on These engines time differently than most other Ford engines. The timing is set at 3 o'clock looking at the front of the engine, and 11 spaces apart. Not abasolutely certain on the 11 sspaces could be 12. Memory not being all that it could be. Second extremely important thing to remmember is the center cam bearing feeds your rocker arms. This cam bearing has to be installed exactly right, and I suggest those oil passages be cleaned out with a drill bit. There is an odd place on the head grooved to let the oil pass thru if I remmember right. Make sure this is clean and deep enough to not limit oil passage. One thing to make sure of, and that is that you have the correct seal for the oil pickup tube coming out of the pan. This is critical on where the tube connects to the oil pump. It is roughly 1` inch in diameter and about 5/8 inch long. Without the correct seal the oil pump wioll suck air instead of oil. You don't say whether you are having the crank turned, or if your going to go with a standard crank. Some information you need to know is that Ford made two different size standard rod and main bearings. One of which was .001 oversize and the other was .002 oversize. If running a standard crank every main and rod has to be hand fitted for the right size. These are getting hard to find. Also, my number one source of parts for these engines is Dennis Carpenter. You should also be aware that Ford had a roller timing setup for the heavy duty truck engines. If yoru running a cam, which I would suggest, then I would run a roller setup. Roughly 100$ for the three pieces. Ford started making these in 1956 , so the parts numbers correspond to these part numbers.

Rich

Shadow · Post by **Shadow** » March 6, 2011, 12:44 pm

Hey Rich, What Book Do You Recommend for Rebuilding This Engine? Im Trying To Absorb As Much Info As I Can On These Engines.... Thanks. Shadow....

62galxe · Post by **62galxe** » March 6, 2011, 1:35 pm

shadow you can find yblock info here also.
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Default.aspx

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » March 7, 2011, 9:50 am

I use the Ford manual. I just happened to know this information about the timing marks thru experience and reading on other forums. I've overhauled several yblocks and had my first one back in the 60's. Yblocks are good engines with a few flaws that need attention. Cracked heads were one problem but mostly these were the big valve ECZ-G heads, I'm talking about here. There were other problems that you can avoid , such as messing with the rope seals, as the neoprene style is available at a little more cost. One problem with the yblocks was the backpressure building in the block. This caused oil to be forced out he rear main seal. the PCV system eliminated a lot of this and is good upgrade for a yblock without one. the earlier road draft tubes would clog and cause the pressure buildup. Mainly most of the yblocks problems stemed from poor or no maintenance. Don't forget to do you homework on the engine and get all the information you can from all sources you can find. Parts are another problem. I suggest Dennis Carpenter as one of the better sources for reasonable prices. You will need hardened seats installed in the heads, because of the poor grade of gasoline and lack of lead. Stainless valves are available if you want those. I bought some off Evilbay, although the only ones I saw for the intakes were the big valves. The valves are fed by solid lifters, so these need periodic adjustment. I would check the adjustment after a breakin period once the engine is put back in. For adjusting these valves, there was a special tool called the P+G Valve gapper, hopefully you know someone with one of these. these are not easily found and not cheap having been made about 40 years ago. YOu can get by without one of these, but it makes it easier for a couple of reasons. John Mummerts yblock site is very helpfull and offers reground and new cams amongst other parts for the yblock. He has usefull information on the yblock on site and is worth your time to check out.

Rich

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » March 7, 2011, 11:13 am

I believe the timing marks are 12 pins apart. :roll:

Gatkpartz6179 · Post by **Gatkpartz6179** » March 7, 2011, 11:23 am

I have a few motors for the odd part and a couple good blocks.Also suggest EGGE.com for parts.Those guys don't even blink at mechanical parts requests for anything...

Shadow · Post by **Shadow** » March 7, 2011, 12:06 pm

Fortunately, Ive Got An Old Ford Guy Doing The Rebuild. When We Talked Over Alot Of These Issues, He Already Knew This Stuff From Experience. Hes Got The Ford Book... Ive Inspected The Heads, Block, Oil-Tubes, Bearings, Rope-Seal Etc. During The Rebuild Process To Make Sure All The Issues Are Addressed.. Im Lucky Enough To Have A Great Machine Shop Here In Topeka, Ive Used Them Before. The Guy Loves These Engines, In His Words "Back Then They Were Built Right " With That Said, I Greatly Appreciate All The Information... Im Pretty Sure I Will Have Alot More Into This Truck Than It's Worth By The Time Im Done With The Motor And Brakes... I Intend On Driving This Truck And Having This Truck Until It's Passed On To Family. If I Don't Have The Mechanical Ability To Do Something I Research And Find The Right Guy To Do It.....

RhodySlick'63 · Post by **RhodySlick'63** » March 9, 2011, 10:05 pm

My top end was dry too...especially on one side.

Ended up running an external oiler up to the rockers. Just wanted to drive the truck here and there and didn't want to tear the motor down right away.

Maybe someday, but for now she' fine.

Lub...Lub...Lub!

-Tim

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » March 11, 2011, 11:16 am

The yblock will always be remmembered fondly gy most people, even though there were built in problems. Most of these were easily cured or gotten aroundif neccesary. The top end lack of oil was common enough that you could find the top end oiler kits in almost any parts house in those years. It's good you have someone with experience with these engines, but a decent shade tree mechanic can muddle thru without anything more than good advice most times. I went by your town twice this last week, once on my way to Denver, and then onn my way back.

Rich

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » March 11, 2011, 12:12 pm

I have seen some of them so bad that the owner soaked shop towels in 30W oil and placed them on top of the rockers until rebuild could be done. It worked! :lol:

Shadow · Post by **Shadow** » March 11, 2011, 2:32 pm

I Guess I Could Have Slapped Some Oily Shop-Rags On The Top End and Called It Good!.. I Am Really Glad I Had It Redone.. Seeing The Block & Heads Cleaned, Bored & Honed, And The Exhaust Manifolds Tanked & "Tumbled" Plus New Crossover Pipe, And Freshly Painted Correct "Black Block" & "Ford-Red" Valve Covers... New Hoses & Wires... New Oil-Pump, Pistons & Rings, Radiator Flushed, And Getting The Brake System Overhauled... New MC With Booster, SS-lines, New Hoses, And Wheel Cylinders..... All In Time For Spring... I Can't Wait To Drive It!!!!!!!!! Next I Plan On New Carpeting And Upholstery..............................