dual master cylinder

mwilk1 · Post by **mwilk1** » April 21, 2007, 9:05 pm

Okay ive got a new dual master cylinder installed. Lengthened the push rod and converted the brake light switch. Total cost about $20 plus the proportioning valve which ive had for awhile but dont remember what it cost me. Brakes dont seem to work any better but now they are safer. Mike

Post by **Greg D** » April 21, 2007, 9:20 pm

Cool, gotta keep safe out there! I thought mine worked better after conversion on my 66. Maybe it just seemed like it because of the peace of mind factor, lol. Gonna be converting my Uni's brakes this week.

willy3486 · Post by **willy3486** » April 21, 2007, 11:10 pm

I had the same effect as Greg D had. I just finished it up today. I put in a 68 mustang dual MC and put new steel lines. I had replaced the hoses a while back. I had to add about 1/2 inch rod to my push rod but that works great now. I tried them out and it stops good now. I don't remember it ever stopping this good. It may be due to so many new parts. I also added the switch under the dash on the pedal for brake lights. it works great also .

moondog · Post by **moondog** » May 3, 2007, 8:52 pm

Mike,
good to hear you got your brakes converted. I was wondering what the length of the push rod that you used. Roger

Post by **Greg D** » May 3, 2007, 8:59 pm

Moondog, when I do mine I use a MC from a early 70s F 100 (usually comes with a new rod), it's about 7/8" too long so I just cut it and round off the end. Remember that when you measure it to have the eccentric centered on the pedal bolt so you will still have the adjustment there.

mwilk1 · Post by **mwilk1** » May 5, 2007, 2:33 pm

I made mine adjustable so I would have no idea how long it is unless I pull it back out and measure it. Mike

moondog · Post by **moondog** » May 5, 2007, 8:50 pm

Mike,
I finished my brakes today. I used the push rod that was in the new master cylinder I just bought. The rebuilt that i had was no good. Good brakes now. Roger