Can't get c6 to fit

ethan_lanning · Post by **ethan_lanning** » July 8, 2011, 8:14 pm

So I just dropped a 390 in my 65 f100 2 wheel drive and I have the c6 sitting under the truck on a tranny jack but I can't seem to get the bellhousing between the crossmember and the cab? Is it just me or is there not enough room for the bellhousing?

Thanks

fire truck · Post by **fire truck** » July 8, 2011, 8:29 pm

cut the rivets and remove the crossmember....or pull the engine out and put the trans back in. or my favorite way, pull the cab off, it's much easier to put in that way, you just need a lift or hoist.

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » July 8, 2011, 8:48 pm

If you don't stab it in from the front, you have to take the crossmember out. BE SURE TO PUT IT BACK IN! Despite what some say, you need it. You can put it back in with grade 8 bolts.

bluebolt · Post by **bluebolt** » July 8, 2011, 9:30 pm

You are also going to need the C6 hump from a 67-72 truck.

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » July 8, 2011, 10:11 pm

bluebolt wrote:You are also going to need the C6 hump from a 67-72 truck.

AH! Bugger!, that`s one thing I didn`t try in the fitting stage!

but mine is a 351 Clevo!

ezernut9mm · Post by **ezernut9mm** » July 8, 2011, 10:15 pm

got a light mac?

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » July 8, 2011, 10:18 pm

ezernut9mm wrote:got a light mac?

yeah!, I could decide where to put the lighter!

ethan_lanning · Post by **ethan_lanning** » July 8, 2011, 11:02 pm

Thanks for the help guys...I just got done pulling the motor back out and installing the tranny from the front and got the motor back in and bolted up to the tranny

cdherman · Post by **cdherman** » July 10, 2011, 7:58 am

I was just thinking -- grinding off those rivets and replacing with bolts should be standard proceedure and recomendation to anyone doing a frame off restore. It would have SOOOO much easier to have done that when the frame was just sitting there.

Truckrat · Post by **Truckrat** » July 10, 2011, 8:54 am

Great idea Doc. I am going to do that on mine.
Alan, what ARE all those matches for? TR

Max · Post by **Max** » July 10, 2011, 9:20 am

How to Speak Australian...

"Illuminated switches"

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » July 10, 2011, 10:11 am

Guys, a general thought on mounting transmissions.
On the automatics where you have a one piece transmission body and bell housing, use two grade 8 studs in the top of the motor so they can help guide the transmission in when you stab it.
For standard transmissions, use 4 grade 8 studs in the bell housing to help align the input shaft splines to the clutch disk.
The studs help hold the transmissions in place so you're not trying to align everything and hold it up in place at the same time.
U@ss

jhewitt · Post by **jhewitt** » July 10, 2011, 1:20 pm

WE DID THE SAME REMOVE THE RIVETS IN THE CROSS MEMBER AND REPLACE WITH GRADE 8 BOLTS.
ANOTHER MADE A >>GREAT<< SUGGESTION WHILE HAVING STRIPPED TO FRAME DO IT THEN.

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » July 11, 2011, 1:45 am

Truckrat wrote:Great idea Doc. I am going to do that on mine.
Alan, what ARE all those matches for? TR

Gary,so I could show how many holes the PO put in the dash!

Can't get c6 to fit

Can't get c6 to fit

Hump

Re: Hump

wHEN PUTTING IN 1989 aod INTO 65 f100