New oil problem, must read.

FORDMANLCRACKEL · Post by **FORDMANLCRACKEL** » May 23, 2007, 8:58 pm

http://460ford.com/viewtopic.php?t=13104

Lonnie

64fordf100292v8 · Post by **64fordf100292v8** » May 24, 2007, 2:56 am

I run diesel oil in everything I own. Ive been doing this for years. I use Rotella 5w40 full synthetic in my 64. Good all year around. 292 loves it.

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » May 24, 2007, 9:57 am

I saw somewhere that some engine builders are suggested roller cam conversions as a way to get around the problem. A lot cheaper to use the diesel oils.

Post by **Greg D** » May 24, 2007, 10:45 am

First, Lonnie, a big THANK YOU for posting that! Figures, let us all not forget in the first place the lie of the catalitic converter anyway. It is there to reduce carbon monoxide by converting to another substance (which I have since forgotten), it actually makes the the exhaust now contain other chemicals that are MORE poisonous the than the carbon monoxide. The government has absolutely NO buisness designing cars, 90% of the crap you and I are forced to pay for because it is Federally mandated on vehicles is nothing more than expensive scrap metal. This is one of the reasons I like older cars & trucks so much. Driving my 62 flips a big bird to all the morons in Washington who think they need to tell us and Detroit how cars need to be but yet I'll bet most of them can't even check their own oil let alone change it. The funny thing is I originally started driving trucks because they were exempt from alot of mandated changes for longer than cars.

The Big M · Post by **The Big M** » May 24, 2007, 11:16 am

Catalytic converters don't increase the toxicity of exhaust gases. Their byproducts are nitrogen, oxygen, carbon dioxide, and water.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catalytic_converter

A three-way catalytic converter has three simultaneous tasks:

1. Reduction of nitrogen oxides to nitrogen and oxygen: 2NOx → xO2 + N2
2. Oxidation of (non greenhouse gas, but toxic) carbon monoxide to less harmful (greenhouse gas) carbon dioxide: 2CO + O2 → 2CO2
3. Oxidation of unburnt carcinogenic hydrocarbons (HC) to carbon dioxide and water: 2CxHy + (2x+y/2)O2 → 2xCO2 + yH2O

It can be argued that emissions controls reduce fuel economy and thereby increase the overall volume of greenhouse gas emissions from vehicles. However, as far as air quality goes (i.e. toxicity), they are beneficial. Perhaps not perfect, but a definite improvement.

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » May 24, 2007, 11:16 am

So, do we all convert to diesel oils? I have assembled many engines with no problems but now the game has changed. Do we still use the cam lubes provided by the cam manufacturers? I have used Lubriplate 105 on rod and main bearings as well as lubing the oil pump prior to installation. Then we spin the oil pump driveshaft with the engine on the stand using 30W HD oil in the pan. Obviously we can no longer use the 30W HD oils in the engine. What is recommended to the engine builder at this point? Should we use the 30W diesel oil at break in and thereafter? A lot of people are building engines today and in the near future. What will be the recommended procedure?
Thanks,
Jim

Slick Fan · Post by **Slick Fan** » May 24, 2007, 12:06 pm

Man, what a bummer deal. Before long, nothing will be safe to use in older engines any more.

Some company needs to make a little can of additive that we can pour in with oil changes, to get around this crap.

Post by **Greg D** » May 24, 2007, 4:03 pm

Big M, I know I read this somewhere in an auto publication but it was back when they were first put in use. I suppose the info doesn't apply to the newer ones but I seem to remember it concerned a gas that is not measured by the emissions equipment. I also remember one of the car magazines doing a build up of a new mid 70s Camaro in which they removed ALL but the PCV valve and optimized the engine itself. I remember they had to have a cam special ground for the engine, rest I think was off the shelf parts: result - did better on emissions than a off the showroom version of the same car, more horsepower AND better fuel economy. I am NOT sold on all the government propaganda concerning their mandated car technology. Kinda comes down to figures don't lie, But lyers figure.

The Big M · Post by **The Big M** » May 24, 2007, 5:32 pm

That doesn't surprise me, actually. Early emissions equipment was crude at best. I have no doubt that the early attempts at emissions control only succeeded at choking off engines and increasing fuel consumption.

I would like to know why the fuel economy of some new vehicles isn't reflecting the advances in technology that have been made in recent years. I can get easily 38 mpg in my '92 Acura, while some new compacts are only marginally better.

As for the diesel oils, expect them to have the zinc content phased out as well. I've seen this topic discussed elsewhere, and I seem to remember that diesel oils were safe for now. But, heavy trucks are subject to new emissions regulations. Every new truck, be it made by Kenworth, Peterbilt, or whomever, must now be fitted with a special exhaust device designed to reduce emissions. I wouldn't be surprised if the industry moved to remove zinc from diesel oils at some point.

I'm not surprised that the changes in oil technology have left the flat-tappet crowd behind. I'm sure we're a small market in relation to new car sales.

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » May 24, 2007, 5:36 pm

This irks me quite a bit.. when did this come into effect?
Both my Windsors are flat tappets, and I just put full synthetic into the Bricklin, thinking long life and protection.
Grr.
What additives have Zinc in them then? Lucas? and if so can you put Lucas (or other to be named) in Synthetic?

didgeytrucker · Post by **didgeytrucker** » May 24, 2007, 7:50 pm

Nothing was mentioned about Pennzoil on the 460 forum. That's all I've ever used, and I've put 225,000 miles on a 429 I built myself. I guess I'll have to start reading labels.

Tracy

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » May 25, 2007, 12:46 am

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Oil

The purpose of proper lubrication is to provide a physical barrier (oil film) that separates moving parts reducing wear and friction. Oil also supplies cooling to critical engine components, such as bearings. Detergent oils contain dispersants, friction modifiers, anti-foam, anti-corrosion, and anti-wear additives. These detergents carry away contaminants such as wear particulates and neutralize acids that are formed by combustion byproducts and the natural breakdown of oil. Not all motor oils are created equally when it comes to the levels of additives and detergents used. The focus of this study is on the levels of zinc and phosphorus found in motor oils, more exactly, the zinc (Zn) and phosphorus (P) that makes up the anti-wear additive ZDDP, zinc dialkyl dithiosphosphate.

What general characteristics make motor oils specifically well suited to an aircooled engine? Aside from recommendations issued by Porsche, what makes a good oil? These oils must be thermally stable, having a very high flashpoint, and must “maintain proper lubrication and protect vital engine components under the extreme pressure and the high temperature conditions” found in aircooled Porsches. Porsche recommends and uses Mobil 1 0w40 as a factory fill in newer watercooled models and their 15w50 has been a popular choice used by many for their aircooled models year round in a wide range of climates.

Porsche’s recommendation in hand, our initial analysis from 2005 and 2006 found that all recent SH/SJ/SL formulations of Mobil lubricants tested, including Mobil 1, have had similar 0.12-0.14% Zn and P content, which we think is a good thing, but looking closer, Mobil 1 0w40 had somewhat less Zn and P, at 0.10%. Current SM formulations are at the 0.10% level or less. This confirms the industry wide trend of the reduction of Zn and P from motor oils, with the eventual reduction to 0.06-0.08% or even worse, the elimination of these additives, which are essential to an aircooled Porsche engine's longevity.

Many Porsche repair shops have acknowledged that these newest SM and CJ-4 motor oils are not sufficient for protecting any Porsche engine. With longevity and the protection of vital engine components in mind, many shops are recommending the addition of GM's EOS Engine Oil Supplement at every oil change. Shops that used to run M1 in their race cars have either switched to Mobil's synthetic motorcycle oils or have resorted to using premium dino oills, such as Swepco 306 15w40 or Brad Penn Racing 20w50 oils, for their higher levels of protection. For most owners, the reduction in longevity of a catalytic convertor is a small price to pay considering the many thousands of dollars it costs to properly rebuild a Porsche engine.

Oil companies have been cutting back on the use of Zn and P as anti-wear additives, and turning to alternative zinc-free (ZF) additives and ashless dispersants since Zn, P, and sulpherated ash have been found to be bad for catalytic converters. One such ZF anti-wear additive is boron. Most of the SM and CJ-4 oils we tested contain significant concentrations of boron (B) to offset the reduction of Zn and P. The performance of these zinc-free anti-wear additives has only been proven with ultra-low sulphur fuels, not readily available in the United States with exception of new diesel fuels since 2007. Since we are discussing aircooled engines specifically, the highest levels of boron we found were in Harley Davidson’s SYN3 motor oil, which is specifically formulated for an aircooled engine, but at levels six to ten times that of what is present in any reformulated SM or CJ-4 motor oil. Additionally, Harley's SYN3 didn't reduce the Zn or P, just supplemented it with the added boron. Similarly, Swepco's 306 has high levels of boron in addition to high levels of Zn and P.

According to leading studies, Boron works best in the presence of Zn and P and may better serve to complement these anti-wear additives than as a replacement for them. This reduction is a mandate issued by API, American Petroleum Institute, who is in charge of developing standing standards for motor oils. In 1996, API introduced the API SJ classification to reduce these levels to 0.10% or less. The latest API SM standard for car oils calls for a zinc and phosphorus content less than 0.08% to reduce sulfur, carbon monoxide, and hydrocarbon emissions. As a result of this mandate, some motor oils now have as little as 0.05% zinc and phosphorus.

Prior to the new CJ-4 API standard for diesel oils, we found most of the CI-4 15w40 and 5w40 oils to have excellent levels of Zn and P. We did observe Mobil, among other manufacturers, beginning the use of boron in their oils as a zinc-free (ZF) anti-wear additive in various CI-4 and SL formulations, but always with high Zn and P levels, above current API limitations. It would appear now that with the reduction of Zn and P in these newest CJ-4 oils, that boron will now become a more common anti-wear additive, and even with lowered Zn and P levels, the boron levels are still nowhere as close to what previous CI-4 and SL oils, so the long-term performance of these new oils is unknown and unproven in vehicles running fuels other than those classified as ultra-low sulphur, typically less than 10ppm as alluded to earlier. Remember, unleaded fuels don't have these low sulphur levels!

However, it is worth noting that these new API guidelines do not apply to “racing,” “severe duty,” or any motor oils that do not carry an API “starburst” seal or clearly state for off-road-use only. Motor oils meeting “Energy Conserving I or II” standards should be avoided as well as those with an API SM classfication, with it's lower Zn and P levels, which applies only to 0w20, 0w30, 5w20, 5w30, and 10w30 "ILSAC" grades. Although having been more sensitive to emissions and the environment than American standards, we find the European ACEA A3 and B3/B4 classifications, which place a cap on P levels at 0.10-0.12%, to be better in taking into consideration wear and engine longevity while limiting emissions and protecting emissions control devices. Additionally, ACEA A3 sequences require higher high-temperature high-shear (HTHS) viscosities, stay in grade sheer stability, and tighter limits on evaporative loss, high temperature oxidation, and piston varnish. This makes oils meeting these ACEA standards that much better for your Porsche, especially since wear limits are much more stringent for valve train wear, 1/6th to 1/4th the wear allowed in the sequences for API's SM standards. Porsche requires a minimum 3.5 cSt @ 150C HTHS viscosity, which is a good measure of the protection any given motor oil provides, and requires that all approved oils be of group III or better base stocks, which includes quality hydrocracked parrafinic petroleum bases like those used by Brad Penn and Swepco. In general, synthetics provide the best protection, but a good additive package and quality parrafinic base stock has been proven to work just as well.

Failure to use the right oil, use proper filtration, or observe proper changing intervals can affect the performance of even the best motor oil. This also includes changing the oil too often or not often enough. Against conventional wisdom, engine wear decreases as oil ages to a certain extent, which means that changing your oil more frequently actually causes engine wear; these findings were substantiated by studies conducted by the auto manufacturers and petroleum companies, leading to drain intervals increased from 3,000mi to 5,000-7,500mi in most domestic vehicles. It has been suggested that no more than six months or 7500mi should be observed between service intervals and vehicles driven in more demanding conditions should be serviced more frequently, rather than based off of extremely long drain intervals recommended by European manufacturers, some in excess of two years and 15,000 mi. Vehicles with track time or sustained high oil temperatures or RPMs should have their oil changed after every event. Vehicles subjected to very short drives or sustained operation in heavy traffic should indeed be serviced more often. Regular used oil analysis is the best way to determine ideal drain intervals for your driving habits. With this knowledge in hand, using a quality motor oil with proper filtration and regular service is the best thing to do for your engine and to protect your investment.

Written by Charles L Navarro
LN Engineering

Any information you may receive related to this web site is provided merely as friendly suggestions, not as expert opinion, testimony or advice. Neither LN Enginering nor Charles Navarro endorses or sponsors any information, products or methodologies you may find herein.

AS SEEN IN EXCELLENCE, 356 REGISTRY, 356 CLUB, AND PORSCHE PANORAMA

WE RECOMMEND BRAD PENN - PENN GRADE 1 RACING AND BREAK-IN MOTOR OILS - THE GREEN OIL

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Frequently Asked Questions about Motor Oils

What non-detergent oil can I use when breaking in a new engine?

Just because non-detergent oil is cheap, it doesn't mean you should use a cheap non-detergent oil. I would recommend using the highest quality oil regardless, and Exxon Aviation Piston Engine Oil is one such oil. Meets SAE J1966 spec for aircraft piston engines for non-detergent break-in lubricant. This is probably the best quality non-detergent oil available, for those who prefer to use such an oil on a new engine. Available from http://www.eliteetc.com/exoil.html.

Other than non-detergent oils for break in, I have also been informed that just this year Brad-Penn / Penn-Grade began to offer a SAE 30 break in oil with .14% Zn and P already in the motor oil. Information about this oil can be found at the American Refining Group's website here. Joe Gibbs Racing also offers their BR break-in oil here.

Many cam manufacturers have recommended Rotella T in the past for cam break in. Remember, this was the CI-4 Rotella T some manufacturers were recommending, not the new CJ-4 Rotella. Be advised that we do not recommend the continued use of the new CJ-4 Rotella T for cam break-in. Additionally in support of this position, magazines such as Fleet Equipment, in one such article "Focusing on Oil," stated that CJ-4 oils should only be used in 2007 and later engines and that earlier engines should remain on CI-4 oils.

How should I break in my engine?

If you have questions on how you should break in an engine and proper break in procedure, we recommend reading the following articles about the subject:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resou ... gnbrkn.htm

What motor oils had the 0.12% levels of zinc and phosphorus recommended?

The current API standard is SM, and calls for 0.06-0.08% Zn and P. The new CJ-4 standard which supercedes CI-4 calls for no more than 0.1% P. Some of these reformulations have new zinc-free anti-wear additives, but we still think a target of 0.12% is ideal for Zn and P levels as documented by the 1977 SAE Journal paper titled "Cam and Lifter Wear as Affected by Engine Oil ZDP Concentration and Type", which evaluated the performance of these oils in various fleets around the country over the span of many years.

Name Vis P (ppm) Zn (ppm) B (ppm) Detergents (ppm) API Date Type Source
Amerilube 10w50 1254 1115 3001 SL 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Amsoil AFL Euro 5w40 701 804 50 1452 SL 11/06 SYN Staveley
Amsoil HDEO 5w40 794 1081 2276 CJ-4 11/06 SYN Staveley
Amsoil Series 2000 Racing 20w50 1014 1123 12 3209 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Amsoil V-Twin/MC 20w50 1193 1281 3564 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Amsoil XL-7500 5w20 434 532 165 1601 SL 08/06 SEMI Blackstone
Amsoil XL-7500 5w20 334 1096 209 3061 SL 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Castrol Act Evo 20w50 765 1126 1724 SG 05/06 DINO Staveley
Castrol GPS 4STK MC2 20w50 767 1133 1544 SG 05/06 SYN Staveley
Castrol GTX 20w50 1157 1422 1848 SM 11/05 DINO Staveley
Castrol GTX High Mile 20w50 1248 1382 1848 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Castrol Syntec 5w40 786 918 1979 SL 09/06 SYN Blackstone
Castrol Syntec 5w50 921 914 58 2628 SM 11/05 SYN Staveley
Castrol Syntec Blend 20w50 937 916 1197 SM 03/07 SEMI Staveley
Castrol Tection Extra 15w40 965 1094 46 2461 CI-4 3/07 DINO Blackstone
Castrol TWS 10w60 425 1294 111 2383 SJ 06/06 SYN Staveley
Chevron Delo 400 15w40 1191 1622 3668 CI-4 06/06 DINO Staveley
Delvac 1 5w40 1390 1803 76 2583 CI-4 11/05 SYN Staveley
Delvac 1300 Super 15w40 1380 1702 78 2388 CI-4 11/05 DINO Staveley
Elf 505.01 VW 5w40 584 1092 2691 SL 05/06 SYN Staveley
Exxon Av Break-in oil 20w50 1 4 23 N/A 11/05 DINO Staveley
Exxon Av Oil 20w50 702 32 33 N/A 11/05 SEMI Staveley
Exxon Superflow 20w50 717 848 96 2650 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Ford Motorcraft 5w20 545 848 298 2005 SM 01/07 SEMI Staveley
Harley Davidson Syn3 20w50 1081 1182 264 1482 SG 11/05 SYN Staveley
Havoline 20w50 425 494 87 1049 SM 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Joe Gibbs Racing XP5 20w50 920 1231 504 SG 04/07 SEMI Blackstone
Kendal GT (Vintage) 20W50 1229 1415 2408 SE 11/05 DINO Blackstone
Kendall GT 20w50 904 1233 2885 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Kendall GT 10w30 582 872 278 1416 SM 11/05 SEMI Staveley
Kendall GT 10w40 598 897 282 1565 SM 11/05 SEMI Staveley
Lucas High Perf. Motor Oil 20w50 386 460 214 1079 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 761 876 167 2630 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 796 907 178 2650 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 808 976 185 3256 SL 04/03 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 706 834 148 2246 SM 02/05 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 15w50 952 1030 41 2175 SM 03/07 SYN Staveley
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1193 1376 228 2970 SL 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1062 1279 79 2485 SM 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 906 1024 72 2071 SM 01/06 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1315 1428 226 2593 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley
Mobil 1 mx4t 10w40 1277 1460 188 2025 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 mx4t 10w40 1411 1623 188 2248 SG 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 R 0w30 1399 1536 178 3051 SG 02/04 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 Super Syn 15w50 1343 1390 205 2601 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley
Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5w40 1034 1247 51 2826 CI-4 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 V Twin 20w50 1329 1949 204 2130 SG 11/05 SYN Staveley
Mobil 5k Clean 10w40 660 1028 2895 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Mobil High Mile 10w40 527 1021 2844 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Motul 300V Competition 5w40 1317 1409 19 3273 SH 04/05 SYN Blackstone
Motul 300V Competition 15w50 1139 1130 20 2410 SH 05/05 SYN Blackstone
Motul 505.01 VW 5w40 973 1226 2830 SL 05/06 SYN Staveley
Motul Competition 15w50 1148 1327 11 2723 SH 05/06 SYN Staveley
Motul Tekma Mega 15w40 1220 1737 145 3469 CI-4 05/06 DINO Staveley
Mystik 15w40 1130 1224 3104 CI-4 03/07 DINO Staveley
Mystik 10w50 700 799 2003 CI-4 03/07 SEMI Blackstone
Penn Grade 1 Racing 20w50 664 852 2094 SJ 04/07 SEMI Blackstone
Penn Grade 1 Racing 20w50 801 1058 2827 SJ 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Pennzoil 20w50 501 800 223 2062 SM 01/07 DINO Staveley
Quaker State Q Full Syn 5w50 923 908 1917 SM 11/05 SYN Staveley
Redline 15w50 924 1004 27 2287 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Redline 10w40 1440 1872 3039 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley
Rotella 15w40 843 946 26 1881 CJ-4 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Rotella 15w40 996 1130 32 2054 CJ-4 04/07 DINO Staveley
Rotella 15w40 1278 1555 2946 CI-4 11/05 DINO Staveley
Rotella 5w40 1397 1552 2921 CI-4 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple 20w50 668 763 2034 SJ 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Royal Purple 20w50 1290 1337 3295 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple Max Cycle 10w40 4085 1222 2599 SJ 07/05 SYN Blackstone
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50 3179 1030 2142 SJ 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50 3907 1458 2478 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple Racing 51 20w50 1285 1417 2639 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple XPR 10w40 1034 1741 2709 SJ 12/06 SYN Blackstone
Schaeffer 7000 Supreme 20w50 1249 1626 2451 SL 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Schaeffer 9000 Supreme 5w40 1113 1315 10 3126 SL 07/05 SYN Blackstone
Swepco 306 15w40 763 895 92 1732 CI-4 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Swepco 306 15w40 1238 1476 128 2464 CI-4 04/07 DINO Staveley
Torco SR-1 20w50 363 412 759 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Torco SR-5 20w50 1072 830 10 1481 SG 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Torco T-4SR 20w50 1059 969 1293 SG 05/06 SYN Staveley
Torco TR-1 20w50 670 571 958 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Torco V Series ST 20w50 1030 1286 2231 SG 05/06 SEMI Staveley
Valvoline All Fleet Plus 15w40 1110 1232 3559 CI-4 10/06 DINO Staveley
Valvoline Durablend 20w50 566 732 13 2606 SM 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Valvoline Max Life 20w50 691 879 17 2170 SM 11/05 DINO Staveley
Valvoline Prem. Blue 15w40 1314 1838 158 4329 CI-4 06/06 DINO Staveley
Valvoline Synpower 20w50 605 689 1786 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Valvoline VR1 20w50 1085 1293 17 2242 SL 11/05 DINO Staveley
Valvoline VR-1 NSL 20w50 835 976 10 819 SL 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Valvoline VR-1 NSL 20w50 842 962 11 838 SL 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Bardahl No Leak/Smoke 53 4 0 11/05 O/A Staveley
Boron Motor Silk 116 0 05/06 O/A Staveley
CD-2 Maxx Detergent 1 7 2416 11/05 O/A Staveley
CMW Racing Concentrate 2292 1147 358 06/06 O/A Staveley
GM Cam Lifter Prelube 5710 5876 29004 01/07 O/A Blackstone
GM EOS Assembly Lube 5762 6221 8265 01/07 O/A Blackstone
Lucas Oil Stabilizer 36 13 0 01/07 O/A Staveley
Power Service Oil Extender 3567 4945 6394 11/05 O/A Staveley
Schaeffer Micron Moly 110 5 0 08/06 O/A Staveley
STP Blue 1704 2436 88 11/05 O/A Staveley
STP Red 2115 3932 901 11/05 O/A Staveley
Valvoline Max Life Protect 537 768 22 3871 11/05 O/A Staveley
Valvoline Synpower 356 551 650 11/05 O/A Staveley

Here are the running averages for all the oils tested thusfar:

API P (ppm) Zn (ppm) B (ppm) Mo (ppm) Ca (ppm) Mg (ppm) Na (ppm) Total Detergents
SE-SJ 1301 1280 151 357 1936 293 214 2443
CI-4 1150 1374 83 80 2642 199 2840
SL 994 1182 133 273 2347 109 22 2479
CJ-4 819 1014 26 2075 7 2082
SM 770 939 127 122 2135 13 139 2287

Please note that these figures can vary due to the accuracy of oil sample testing, but can be useful for determining general trends and which oils have the highest anti-wear additive levels. Trends can be used to say X oil has more Zn and P than Y, rather than proving exact levels. If your company's motor oil is shown not to have the proper levels, please contact us and we'd be more than happy to append our results and have your oil retested. Tests from one lab to another may not be comparable. That said, "Your mileage may vary..."

Any information you may receive related to this web site is provided merely as friendly suggestions, not as expert opinion, testimony or advice. Neither LN Enginering nor Charles Navarro endorses or sponsors any information, products or methodologies you may find herein. The test results contained herein come with no guarantee, even for a product with the same name, date code, API code, or lot number - there can and will be variations depending on the sample and who is doing the testing. Only the individual companies can assure that, and only they can report their specs. All oil sampling and testing was done by either Staveley Services NA or Blackstone Labs, both independent laboratories.

Corrections and Observations

The new SM formulation of Mobil 1 15w50 EP (extended performance) seems to have in addition to reducing the Zn and P significantly. I strongly recommend to those running Mobil 1 15w50 EP switch to Mobil's newest non-extended performance 15w50 formulation which is advertised as having higher levels of Zn and P. For even higher levels of Zn and P, switch to Mobil 1 MX4T 10w40 or V-Twin 20w50, which still is an API SG oil, which has the highest level of zinc found in any motor oil, which adding the boron at levels typically only seen in low Zn and P formulations. This should technically provide the best protection in my opinion.

For those using Mobil 1 0w40 in older aircooled engines, Mobil's MXT4 10w40 which is also an API SG oil should provide excellent wear perfomance similar to the V-Twin formulation, but in a lighter viscosity. I should note that both of these oils have LOTS of Zn and P and will probably shorten your catalytic converter's life. If it was me, I would think continuing to use M1 15w50 and 0w40 with added GM EOS or STP would suffice for most users while keeping Zn and P levels to where they shouldn't vastly affect emissions control systems overall life over Porsche's previous recommendations of an API SH or SJ oil as late the 2000 model year 996.

The Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 Racing oil tested lower than expected for Zn and P from the 0.12% shown on the manufacturer's MSDS. This oil has the trademark green color that gives it away as genuine Pennsylvania oil and its similarity to the Kendall GT from decades past. Brad Penn's Racing oils are a blend of genuine Pennsylvania crude and synthetic base stocks, like the 30-40% PAO used in their 0w30 formulation. I highly recommend both their 0w30 (for winter use) and 20w50; Brad Penn's Racing 0w30 also exceeds Porsche's requirement of min. 3.5 cSt HTHS vis with a 3.9 cSt HTHS!

Southwestern Petroleum Corp also reports their Zn and P levels should be about double what they tested at. Their oil is tested and every batch has to have a minimum of 1200ppm P and 1250ppm Zn, but can be as much as 300ppm higher, as is reflected in the latest sampling done by Staveley. Swepco 306 15w40 is also a CI-4 oil and will remain for the forseable future as such and is the 15w40 grade motor oil I most recommend to all my customers who do not use a Xw30 or 20w50. Swepco offers other viscosity 306 products which I would not hesitate to recommend given the performance of their 15w40 oil and its reputation in the Porsche community.

Redline oil also tested low for Zn and P in their newer SM formulation; according to Redline, it should be 1400 ppm Zn and 1200 ppm P. Their non-detergent racing oils have roughly double that amount, but since there aren't detergents, I would not use them for street use unless changed very often. For those who don't know why a racing oil would have less detergents, it has been suggested in various SAE journals that detergents can interact with the anti-wear additives and prevent the AW films from forming. I would say that for this reason alone, probably Redline's pure racing oils would probably provide some of the best protection money can buy for an all out race oil for engines getting oil after every race and overhauled more frequently than street engines. Joe Gibbs Racing also formulates their racing oils with limited detergents and very high Zn and P, like Redline's racing oils.

Although reading motor oils for their API ratings or testing their Zn and P levels exclusively does not always guarantee their performance, using a motor oil with an ACEA A3 approval rating does guarantee a minimum high temperature high shear rating (HTHS vis @ 150C min of 3.5). An oil with an ACEA E3, E4, or E5 also has to meet this rating, but allowable total wear limits for cam wear are more stringent with the A3 specification.

Why have you added a TOTAL DETERGENT column?

In our reading various SAE papers, we discovered that too aggressive of a detergent package can literally "clean" the anti-wear films off parts as they are formed. For that reason alone, many racing oils have less detergency than street oils or even omit detergents all together. The total detergents column adds together the total Calcium, Magnesium, and Sodium, all detergents in motor oils. A good example is Valvoline's VR-1 - the version you can buy at your FLAPS has over 2000ppm detergents, where the "non-street-legal" version of this racing oil has less than 1000ppm. You can use these reduced detergency oils on the street, but your drain intervals must be reduced accordingly.

Why do you list some oils more than once ?

We show multiple results for any oil if we had it tested by different labs (same bottle or batch of oil is used for the VOA) to ensure that any previous result might have been wrong or skewed, like as with the case with Swepco's product, which tested nearly half of what the actual levels are. Additionally, some resamples are after a reformulation, say from API SL to SM. Our plan is to once we have enough "data points", to offer weighted averages for each oil, to more favorably compare oils between one another and different labs. Please be patient with us, as we have taken on this great expense alone and on our free time on evenings and weekends, as time permits.

How did you determine the recommended 0.12% Zn and P level (ZDP, a.k.a. ZDDP)?

There are many excellent SAE technical papers on the subject, but the one I found most interested was from 1977 titled "Cam and Lifter Wear as Affected by Engine Oil ZDP Concentration and Type." There is some background that is needed to shed light on their results. First of all, there are different types of ZDPs. There is an Aryl ZDP which is the most stable form. There is also an Alkyl ZDP which although is not as stable, exhibits the best wear protection.

In various fleet tests, it was determined that the best performance was from oils containting all Alkyl ZDPs or predominantly Alkyl ZDP blends. They also looked at the performance of "ashless" oils (0.03-0.05% Sulpherated Ash) vs oils with normal levels (0.11% or higher) and it would appear that oils with lower ash levels needed more ZDP to provide the same level of protection. I bring this up since the newest CJ-4 and SM oils require significantly lower ash levels, less than 0.10%. Across the Indianapolis, Pheonix, and Los Angeles taxi fleets observed, oils with 0.11-0.13% Alkyl ZDP resulted in the lowest combined and average cam wear measured. Levels of wear remained low with oils with Alkyl ZDPs as high as 0.19%.

The oils that had at least 0.07% Alkyl combined with 0.05% Aryl performed just as well as oils with higher Alkyl only ZDP levels, suggesting some sort of synergistic properties of the decomposition products of the Alkyl/Aryl blend. Comined ZDP levels of the Aryl and Alkyl blend were min. 0.12%. Our assumption with choosing a minimum Zn and P levels of 0.12% is on the assumption that the best combo of ZDPs are being used for wear performance, not longer drain intervals.

More recently, in the development of the IIIG sequence, developers went so far as to say that there was no need for the VD and VE sequences for testing of OHV (overhead valve) engines because these engines are not commercially available as new anymore and do not refect the needs of more modern engines. In a SAE paper titled "How Much ZDP is Enough?" from 2004, the resulting trend of decreasing phosphorus is as a direct result of observations that modern engines, with lower spring pressures and lighter vavletrain, including multiple intake and exhaust valves, seems to require only .03% Ph to prevent wear. It was further documented that by increasing to 180 lbs of spring pressure with a .03% ZDP resulted in 267 mil of wear where with .05% ZDP concentration tests resulted in 26 mil of wear. That same .05% oil with just 205 lbs of pressure resulted in 153 mil of wear, requiring .095% ZDP to reduce wear, resulting in just 16 mil. The ZDP requirements of a motor oil are directly proportional to valvetrain spring pressure. Most older SOHC and pushrod aircooled Porsche engines have significantly more pressure, as a stock street pushrod Porsche 356 or 912 engine exceeds these levels of spring pressure compared to the levels of pressure on modern engines, for which oils are tested for.

Newer oils will continue this trend, leaving older engines with fewer and fewer choices for motor oils compliant with the requirements of these older valvetrains, hence our recommendations for using oils with higher levels of ZDPs as substantiated by earlier testing sequences and the results on engines similar to our older aircooled Porsches.

How can I boost the level of Zn and P?

One way would be to use GM's Engine Oil Supplememental additive. By our calculations, between .5 and .66 oz of GM EOS has to be added to each quart of oil to raise the Zn and P by 100 ppm each.

But be careful, more is not always better. Too much and it will cause damage to your catalytic convertor and possibly other emissions controls. Although not as concentrated, STP 4-cyl Treatment (in the red bottle), is easy to find and inexpensive, and doesn't have the viscosity improvers (thickeners) of the blue bottled STP.

The blue bottle of STP does not have the same levels of Zn and P as the STP four-cylinder treatement and also has thickeners, which are not optimal for a healthy Porsche engine.

For a Porsche 911, I recommend using 1 bottle (pint) of GM EOS with every oil change if the oil you are using has less than the recommended 1200-1400 ppm (0.12-0.14%) Zn and P. If the oil you want to use has less than 1000 ppm (0.10%) Zn and P, choose a different oil, since you will need to add too much of the GM EOS to boost this.

For a four cylinder Porsche, 1 bottle of STP 4-cyl treatment is the perfect amount for boosting the Zn and P in a ~4 quart fill. Alternatively, about 1/3-1/2 of the bottle of EOS will be more than enough.

Do not overdose on these supplements, just add enough to get to .12% and leave your oil alone. If you feel the need to have higher levels, use a different oil that has them to start with! If the oil you are using needs more than 200 ppm of boosting, choose a different oil!

Do I need more Zn and P for my 996-based or later watercooled Porsche engine?

If you have a any 996-based engine or later watecooled Porsche, you should use a "Porsche Approved" oil, as every approved oil has to go through very stringent testing conducted on a newer 996 engine. Details about this thorough and stringent testing are available. As such, you should not need to "boost" ZDP levels with any factory approved oils in these latest engines. However, keep in mind that an oil that shows excellent protection in these newer water cooled engines does not necessary imply the same level of protection for older aircooled engines. My only recommendation is that when using these approved oils, that the drain interval should be significantly reduced with the longevity of the engine in mind. Many shop owners have reported back also having removed the switch that requires the clutch to be depressed to start, to reduce thrust bearing wear at start-up. It is worth noting that there are some SL approved oils, which technically might have higher levels of Zn and P and might give you better performance than a similar approved SM oil.

What oil do you recommend for my aircooled Porsche? What oil do you use in your Porsche?

For a sub $5 a quart oil, I recommend Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 Racing 20w50. For cold-weather winter use, I recommend their 0w30 Racing formulation, or for more mild winters, even Swepco's 306 15w40 is an excellent choice. The Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 Racing oil is the same "green" oil everyone was familiar with back when Kendall GT was the best motor oil money can buy, as both the original and this newer product both come from the same facility using genuine Pennsylvania crude, which has it's trademark sodium content. These oils are proven to protect cams, rockers, lifters, and all valvetrain components as well as provide superior rod bearing life. They also make a specific break-in oil, with extra Zn and P. Just ask anyone about the "green" Kendall oil from decades past and you'll know why we like it so much. I usually change my oil twice a year, in the spring and late in the fall and find this oil a perfect balance of price with exceptional protection.

Another excellent oil highly recommended by many well known and respected Porsche shops like Jerry Woods is Swepco's 15w40 motor oil. In fact, some shops have switched from Mobil 1 to Swepco 306 15w40 in their customer's race cars with excellent results and I hear nothing but praise for Swepco's product, just as with Brad Penn and those who wear by their oils. Being Brad Penn doesn't offer a Racing formulation of 15w40, I would not hesitate to use Swepco in this viscosity or any other Swepco product.

There are many full synthetic oils that provide excellent protection, specifically including Royal Purple Max Cycle, Mobil 1 V-Twin & MX4T, and more generally, products offered by Amsoil and Redline, Motul, and Elf among many other oil companies, just to name a few.

Why use a motorcycle oil?

This debate stems ultimately from that of why you should or shouldn’t use a motor oil intended for your automobile in your motorcycle. Motorcycles, on average, have a higher HP per liter, operate at higher rotational speeds, have higher compression ratios (leading to elevated operating temperatures), and are otherwise higher stressed than the engine in your car. Output per litre can easily exceed 1.5 times that of even a high performance car's engine at RPMS sometimes double the normal rpm for a car's engine. For those motorcycles that are not water-cooled, the oil has the added requirement to assist in oil cooling those engines that are air-cooled and must be capable of higher operating temperatures and fluctuations in these temperatures, while maintaining loading ability and viscosity stability (which go hand in hand).

Motorcycle oils have higher levels of phosphorus/zinc for enhanced wear protection and the same high-temperature detergent technology for superior wear protection and engine cleanliness, even at elevated oil temperatures. Specifically motorcycle oils for aircooled engines are designed for very high localized oil temperatures and high overall oil temperatures. Where conventional motor oils begin to break down above 250F, a synthetic motorcycle oil is good for more than 300F sustained before break down. Additionally, motorcycle oils must have improved rust and acid-corrosion protection, as many are not operated on a daily basis. The same goes for most vintage Porsches not used as daily drivers.

As a whole, it would appear that all most motorcycle oils we tested have excellent anti-wear additive levels and most are not SM oils, but rather earlier SG, SJ, or SL formulations.

Can I use a car motor oil in a motorcycle?

Although we are discussing Porsches, I thought I should clarify this point. You should always use a motorcycle oil in a motorcycle, especially one that meets the required specification, such as the JASO-MA or MB and others, since the motor oil has in most cases a dual purpose of lubricating the gearbox and some have to deal with a wet clutch.

Can I use a diesel motor oil in a car?

Yes, but there is a catch. Many camshaft manufacturers recommend the use of diesel oils, many even name Shell Rotella T (CI-4 forumulation) as their preferred engine oil, along with some form of Zn and P additive, such as GM EOS. The only mention I have seen as to a reason not to use a diesel oil would be the lack of friction modifiers in diesel oils vs car oils or the fact that they may contain more of the Aryl ZDP rather than the Alkyl ZDP, but on the other side of the fence, usually friction modifiers are typically only used in very low viscosity motor oils that don't have the levels of Zn and P we are looking for.

The newest CJ-4 formulations are now limited in the amounts of Zn and P allowed, compared to the CI-4 forumations most users are familar with. I would recommend adding GM EOS to these newest CJ-4 oils as well because of this or keep to using CI-4 or CI-4 Plus oils instead. If the oil says CJ-4 even if it also lists CI-4 or CI-4+, more than likely it conforms to the new, lower levels. Thankfully, many petroleum companies have realized the need for two products, a separate CI-4 and a new CJ-4. Chevron Delo 400 is one such oil, easily found in most FLAPS. Just make sure to read the label!

Additionally, CI-4 diesel motor oils tend to have more detergents, and it has been determined in the SAE paper "Oil Development for Nascar" that overly detergent motor oils can block or "clean" the anti-wear films off of engine parts. Since low detergent packages increase the effectiveness of film formation, racing oils tend to have less agressive detergent packages, which is another reason many be to consider a racing oil versus a diesel oil for your engine.

Is there moly in my motor oil? Is moly bad for my engine?

From our testing, most SM oils have some level of boron and moly to make up for the lower level of Zn and P and is now more commonly found in SM oils and the new CJ-4 oils.

The moly is typically there as a friction modifier in lighter viscosity motor oils considered "Energy Conserving." We found on average SM oils had 0.004% moly concentrations, less than what is found in Mobil 1. Also, in testing VW 502.00 spec oils, I also found them to be lacking in moly as well. There are many oils with significantly higher levels of moly such as in Redline and Royal Purple (racing and motorcycle formulations had significantly more moly than their street version). On the flip side, some advertise their product does not have moly intentionally, claiming moly is an abrasive and deposit forming.

Regardless, some oil manufacturers claim that the addition of moly can reduce friction up to 38%, reduce bearing wear up to 60% and reduce overall operating temperatures.

What kind of real-world field-testing have you done?

With some select oils, on top of our standard additive package and total base number (TBN) analysis on all the motor oils we have tested, we also chosen several motor oils for field testing on a vw type 4 platform with a 2270cc engine producing 185 HP, complete with data acquisition. Testing consisted of approximately 800 mi on each oil, with a complete oil system purge (including external oil lines and oil cooler) and a new Mobil 1 oil filter to ensure the best level of filtration possible, followed by used oil analysis. We tested oils as inexpensive as Castrol GTX to as expensive as Mobil 1 V-Twin and Amsoil's Harley V-Twin, including Brad Penn and a few others. The results of this testing has helped us in making some of the recommendations we now make and proof that these oils all work very well in aircooled engines.

What oil should I do if I have an older, higher mileage engine? Can I use a synthetic?

We do not recommend high-mileage oils or high-mileage/stop leak/stop smoke additives because of the questionable formulation of some of these lubricants. I however did find that as far as non-synthetic high-mileage formulations go, Castrol GTX High-Mileage 20w50 is a great oil, even better than the normal Castrol GTX 20w50 (higher viscosity and thermal sheer stability), with the same levels of anti-wear additives and none of the questionable additives I observed in various high-mileage oils and oil treatments. If you want to try a better motor oil, you might want to go with a really good non-synthetic like the Swepco 306 or a semi-syn like the Brad Penn Racing.

Most synthetic oils are formulated with seal swelling and condtitioning agents to minimize the worsening of existing or formation of new leaks. That said, I have had mixed results. In my 911, which had been serviced with Castrol GTX 20w50 its entire life, I switched to Mobil 1. What was onece a leak free engine now had substantial leaks, requiring attention. Once the leaks were addressed, the engine returned to being leak free and suffered from no new leaks. In most cases, leaks form on engines run with non-synthetic oils, and these leaks more or less seal on their own if very small. Synthetic oils can clean these blocked up leaks out, making it appear that the synthetic oil is the cause of the leak, where in actuality, you had a leak there to start with or were going to. I would suggest going through your engine thoroughl to see if any evidence of a leak or leaks can be found before switching over to a synthetic, to minimize any unwanted or unplanned repair expenses attributed to repairing these leaks.

Should I use a semi or partial -synthetic or full-synthetic motor oil?

First of all, save your money – don’t buy the hype of a partial or semi-synthetic. There are a very few exceptions. Brad Penn/Penn Grade Racing and some other "synthetic oils" are sold as a semi-synthetic and vise-versa, as they use a hydrocracked or severely refined quality parrifin base and may be blended with PAOs and Esters, otherwise known as a Group III synthetic and are great choices for an aircooled engine unlike most synthetic blends that are more of a marketing ploy than anything else. In the SAE paper titled "Oil Development for Nascar Racing," published in 2000, it was determined that a 50 weight non-synthetic motor oil provided the same level of protection as a fully-synthetic 30 weight, as long as the additive package is correct, so once again, it goes to prove that dino oils can perform as well as their fully synthetic counterparts and that to some extent, it is the additives that matter most.

I have been running a non-detergent oil in my engine? Should I switch to a detergent oil? Should I add STP or EOS?

First, if your engine has been run with a non-detergent oil for the majority of its life, you should stick to the non-detergent oil you have been using. Switching to a detergent oil will unlodge sludge and put into suspension everything that the non-detergent oil had put out of suspension. Wait until you rebuild the engine and can clean the engine from the inside out, then proceed to use a detergent oil from then on. You should not use STP or EOS products either, as both add some detergents back to the oil and may do the same thing as switching to a detergent oil.

I have been running detergent monograde oils, like Castrol HD30, in my classic car. Can I use a multi-grade?

Yes, there is no reason why you cannot switch to an oil like Castrol GTX 20w50. Just remember to choose a viscosity appropriate for your climate and engine. Alternatively, a 15w40 would be my next choice. Most 10w40 and lighter oils do not have sufficient levels of Zn and P, so make sure to check the list above. If you are running a straight weight oil in a race car that doesn't need cold start protection, most monograde racing oils (like Brad Penn Racing 50wt) have lower detergency coupled with higher Zn and P, and are the obvious solution because of their higher flash points and sheer stability for cars run on the track hard, hot, and for extended periods of time under these conditions.

I've heard you cannot use synthetic gear lubes in VW and Porsche transaxles. Is that true?

There are many excellent choices for gear lubes, both synthetic and non-synthetic that are appropriate for use in our transaxles. I have had excellent success with the tried and true Swepco 201 & 203 product everyone has been using for years, but many do seek the benefits of a synthetic hypoid or gear lube. For transaxles that call for a GL-4 spec gear oil, I have had excellent results with Amsoil's fully synthetic GL-4 gear lube, not to be mistaken with a GL-5 spec lubricant. Another excellent GL-4 is manufactured by Redline, MT-90, which is a true GL-4 75w90 gear oil.

For transaxles that are compatible with GL-5 spec gear lube, you have many choices. Swepco for starters, being the most popular choice for gear lube among most Porsche owners. Royal Purple makes an excellent Max Gear lubricant, which I have found to work well in worn transmissions that need extra cushion. I have also run Redline's 75w90NS in a 901-transaxle- this formulation does not have friction modifiers for limited slip differentials, which can be picky in some transmissions.

Another favorite of mine is Mobilube SHC 75w90, not to be mistaken with the Mobil 1 gear lube found at your local flaps. This stuff is the factory GL-5 fill from Porsche in all their race cars and is an industry standard in semi / mixed fleets. Although hard to find in quantities less than 55 gallons, we have found a fellow Porsche enthusiast and vendor who carries it in gallon sizes, perfect for our transaxles, available from Lufteknic. You cannot go wrong with Mobilube SHC or its Delvac branded replacement. This is the current fill in my G50, as I'm lucky enough to have a truck service and repair shop next to our shop that uses it in all the vehicles his facility services.

What viscosity motor oil should I use?

You should always refer to your owner's manual for the recommended grade and viscosity of oil to be used in any engine. That said, for most watercooled Porsche owners, Mobil 1 0w40 provides the widest range of protection year-round. Some aircooled owners may find that Mobil 1 15w50 (not the extended performance version) is satisfactory for year round use, but below 15F, you probably should use Mobil 1 0w40 for better cold start protection. These oils are referenced for their viscosities - regardless, if the Zn and P levels are insufficient, you should use GM EOS at time of oil change. You should always run as thin an oil as is needed for given oil pressures and oil temperatures an engine sees with running clearances in mind. Most engines shouldn't run anything lighter than 0w40 regardless of the fact that Porsche requires that any motor oil used have a min 3.5 cSt HTHS viscosity, so keep that in mind when choosing a lubricant lighter than 15w40, such as a 5w40, 0w40, or even a 0w30. Most 0w30 oils do not have a HTHS viscosity above 3.5 cSt. Brad Penn Racing 0w30 and Mobil 1 R 0w30 are two exceptions to that rule when it comes to HTHS viscosities. Additionally, as long as you keep levels between 0.12-0.14%, there should be no long term problems with catalytic converters, regardless of viscosity. Pay additional attention to which API is recommended in your owners manual. If an SJ or SL oil is recommended, an SM oil may not provide sufficient protection.

Motor oils are superior today than what was available even a decade ago. Why does it matter what oil I use in my aircooled engine since they are "better" than what was offered when my engine was new?

Yes, most do agree that motor oils and the additives used today are more advanced than what was available in the 50s, 60s, and 70s for sure. That said, modern motor oils are governed by requirements dictated by auto manufacturers and API standards (among other standard bodies).

Most modern engines have dual overhead cams with four or more valves per cylinder, allowing for lower valvetrain mass and lighter spring pressures than what are needed on older SOHC or OHV pushrod engines.

Most modern engines are water cooled, not aircooled, allowing for better control of engine temperatures. There obviously are exceptions to this- turbos are one exception that comes to mind. The oil used to cool (and lubricate) the turbos sees tremendous oil temperatures. Diesel engines also run higher oil temperatures than their gasoline fueled bretheren. Other examples are small displacement/high horsepower/high rpm engines, like BMWs M3 and M5, just to name two. They vary by manufacturer, but many have specific requirements when it comes to motor oils. Most encompass the need for a very high TBN or total base number for long drain intervals, among other wear factors.

Porsche now recommends 15,000 mi intervals on their newest cars, as does most every European auto manufacturer, which is too long in the opinion of many veteran Porsche mechanics and engine builders. Additionally, the thermal sheer stability, viscosity, and film strength of our motor oils is of importance, as aircooled engines are much more demanding on the oils used in them, even more so aircooled engines with turbos and aircooled motorcycles such as Harleys. The other issue with mileage and time intervals are driving habits leading to the formation of deposit or break-down of the oil from contamination, or the depletion of anti-wear additives and detergents in the oils.

Another rampant problem is sludge formation. Many manufacturers have turned to synthetic oils to fight the formation of sludge, requiring owners to use synthetics meeting manufacturers stringent specifications due to the contamination, high oil temperatures, extended drain intervals, and reduced sump capacities. Visit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_sludge for a list of cars suffering sludge formation and you can see this is a big deal. Another excellent link on sludge formation is http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm. The demand for specific oils capable of even the most severe operating conditions is a great example of how all oils are not created equal and some are bettter than others. One good example of this is the Volkswagen Group Oil Specifications, including but not limited to 500.00, 501.01, 502.00, 503.00, 503.01, 505.00, 506.00, and 506.01, all of which pertain to oil requirements. VW also has a 504.00 and 507.00 specification to top things off. Who knew oil could be so confusing?

Another consideration is that modern oils are for the most part designed with increasing the longevity of emissions control devices, not making your engine last longer. One good example of this is the new CJ-4 specification for diesel oils, for 2007 and later diesel engines with particulate emission filters or other emissions controls.

I want to learn more about how motor oils are evaluated. How is valve train wear tested for and measured? What other key factors go into evaluating a motor oils performance that pertains to my Porshce?

The most stringent test used in evaluating ACEA A1, A3, and A5 as well as B and C series seque is the Peugeot TU3M Valve Train Scuffing Wear Evaluation test (CEC L-38-A-94). At its peak, the engine is operated at 3,000 rpm at oil temperatures of 212F (100C) for 60 hours (100 hours combined). The camshaft and rocker lobes, similar to the setup in an aircooled Porsche 911, are limited to an average wear of 10 micrometers and max wear of 15 micrometers.

Another test is the Mitsubishi 4D34T4 (JASO M345:1999) valvetrain test for JASO DH-1, with a max 95 micrometers cam wear. Total wear is similar to limits permitted in current CI-4 and CJ-4 oils, but this particular test is done at 105C for 160 hours at a steady full load at max power for the full 160 hours. Above specifications as reported by the Southwest Research Institute for the Peugeot and Mitsubishi test sequences.

Again it is worth noting that modern engines have ligher valvetrains running lower spring pressures than most aircooled Porsche engines, so just because an oil meets one of the above ACEA requirements on their testbed, it doesn't necessarily imply an equal level of protection or performance in your engine.

The European ACEA A1, A2, A3, B2, B3, and B4 classifications plate a cap on P levels at 0.10-0.12%. Additionally, ACEA A2 and A3 sequences require higher high-temperature high-shear (HTHS) viscosities, stay in grade sheer stability, and tighter limits on evaporative loss, high temperature oxidation, and piston varnish. This makes oils meeting these ACEA standards that much better for your Porsche, especially since wear limits are much more stringent for valve train wear, 1/6th to 1/4th the wear allowed in the sequences for API's SM standard. Porsche requires a minimum 3.5 cSt @ 150C HTHS viscosity, which is a good measure of the protection any given motor oil provides. For the JASO JPI-5S-36 test procedure, a high temperature high shear viscosity of 2.9 mPa s min is required with shear stability performance less than that required of the ACEA sequences, so it's best to look for an ACEA A2 or A3 in addition to any other classifications for a motor oil. It's worth mentioning that the JASO test also has friction tests for addressing wet clutch requirements with a JASO-MA and MB, each testing its friction characteristic with respect to performance with wet clutches and the effect of friction modifiers on these clutches, but since we're not worried with this for Porsche engines, I won't elaborate. There is a new ACEA A5 classification for extended drain intervals using low viscosity low friction motor oils also requiring a HTHS viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa s. The A5 classification may not be suitable for an engine calling for an A3 or earlier and may not offer the same performance, where the A3 calls for a min 3.5 mPa s HTHS vis. Most test sequences and limits remain the same between A1 and A5 ACEA classifications except where the A3 and A5 add a sequence for DI (direct injection) piston & cleanliness & ring sticking and A3 and A5 oils have lower evaporative loss limit and all grades must stay in grade at 100C for 30 cycles, where an A1 does not.

Who can test my Porsche's engine oil?

Although you could have your oil samples tested by a multitude of companies, fellow 356 Registry Member Larry T, who is also a Rennlist member, offers testing and also has been so kind as to share his results with everyone at http://members.rennlist.com/oil. Visit his site at http://www.youroil.net. Alternatively, you can use Staveley Services North America or Blackstone Labs to do your testing as we have for our testing. Bulter which is a Catepillar-Certified lab also is a popular choice. I have also been informed that for Swepco users, Southwest Petroleum does their own in house testing at a fraction of the cost of the larger labs.

What oil filter should I use?

It is very common to see the factory oil filter be the most recommended, and in our case it's usually a Mahle or Mann oil filter. For sure, it does meet the manufacturer's specifications, but we can do better. My filter of choice is the Mobil 1 branded filter. It has a synthetic filter media, anti-drainback valve, and is one of the best constructed filters I have seen, second to the K&N Gold filter which flows more and has a higher burst strength, but doesn’t filter particles as small as does the Mobil 1. For any oil, regardless of non-synthetic or synthetic and your drain interval, I would recommend using Mobil-1's filter. Amsoil also sells a great filter for extended drain intervals in an exceptionally well made housing with a quality synthetic filtration element. Steer clear of paper element filters that are densely packed, which filter well, but clog fast and restrict oil flow. Use a quality filter and change them often, especially when using extended drain intervals, based on the size of the filtration element. Personally, I might change the filter every 3000-5000 mi and top off the oil on a 12,000-15,000 mi a year drain interval for example. Larger filters, like on a late 911, can probably go 7,500mi or 6 months between changes. I do not recommend anything that has a "washable" filter, as these filters are only meant to catch large 50+ micron debris, where a good filter with excellent flow usually can get at least 15 microns and most even below 10 microns, like with the Mobil 1 filters.

For further reading on the subject of oil filters, visit these sites:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html
http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/oil_filter_test.html
What if my engine does not have filtration?

Most stock engines have a spin on or cartridge style oil filter. In the majority of those cases, it's a bypass filter, where only a small portion of the oil actually goes through the filter. It's the idea that the oil is constantly filtering, so eventually all the oil will get filtered. With full flow filtration, 100% of the oil goes through the filter. This does however require very high quality filters with HIGH burst strengths and durable construction, especially of the internal filtration media, because what's the point of full filtration if the media just bursts and lets the contaminants out and doesn't filter the oil? There are a great number of high quality filters that can stand up to the task, two of which are mentioned above. The Porsche 911 is one exception, as with it’s dry sump system, 100% of the oil gets filtered, unlike earlier canister bypass systems as found on the Porsche 356 and 912, as well as with the spin-on filters on the Porsche 914.

For the 356 and 912, I use and recommend Precision Matter's full flow setups, either with an external filter in a full flow configuration or their newest spin-on filter pump cover version. This allows for complete filtration of engine oil, making the use of a synthetic oil more cost effective and allowing for longer drain intervals than normally feasible with the factory bypass filtration. Similar setups are available for VW Type 1 or Porsche 914 engines.

Does it matter what fuel I use?

Yes. Only use "Top Tier" fuels, like Shell V Power. Cheaper fuels may not have the detergency required of high performance engines. It is worth noting that auto manufacturers, such as BMW, helped to establish the requirements for these top tier fuels to meet the needs of their engines. Additionally, cheaper fuels may have higher levels of Sulphur, which is bad not only for emission control devices, but also reduces the performance of anti-wear additives in your motor oil.

What fuel system cleaner, lead additive, or octane booster should I use?

Fuel system cleaners are widely available from dozens of companies, all promising everything from helping you to pass emissions testing to increasing octane. Many do little more than put a drain on your wallet. In most cases, using a quality pump premium formulation is the best thing you can do for your engine, regardless of octane requirements. Most modern engines and fuel management systems can adjust for the increased octane and provide improved fuel economy and horsepower, so even though the octane requirement may be 87 or 91 octane, it can benefit from 93 octane.

If you want to use a fuel system cleaner, use one that meets OEM requirements and is actually used by OEMs. Redline makes a fuel system cleaner that is good for both fuel injected and carbeurated engines, called SI-1. They also make a lead substitute, called just that, Lead Substitute, that also cleans your fuel system and is safe for injectors and catalytic convertors. Both are excellent products ok for continuous use or occasional cleanings. Another product endorsed by many Porsche owners is Chevron's Techron Fuel System cleaner. There are many versions of this cleaner, but it is the most expensive one (with the highest % of technron) that does the trick. The only caveat is that many owners recommend this cleaner should be used just before you change your oil, as the fuel system cleaner can contaminate your motor oil.

If you need to boost your octane, again, if you have access to race gas, that's your best bet for a guaranteed octane boost. That said, Torco makes two race gas concentrates. One is unleaded and safe for use with catalytic converters and for street use and the other is leaded (with real lead) for OFF-ROAD USE ONLY. For example, 10 gallons of pump premium blended with 1/3rd of a bottle of either concentrate yields roughly 98 octane. In my own personal testing, the engine ran smoother and the plugs were cleaner when running their race gas concentrate, as it helps the fuel burn more completely and cleaner, regardless of the fact that it did make my carbureted engine run richer. A multiple-spark discharge or twin-plug configuration would help combustion further.

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References and Acknowledgements
Oil Analysis Results. Staveley Services North America.

Engine Lubrication System. STP. http://www.stp.com/bmc_lub.html

4-Stroke Motor Oil. Valvoline. http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products ... product=76

All About Motor Oil. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils.html

Internet BMW Riders- Is this the right oil for my bike? http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-t ... ing-5.html.

http://www.hw.ac.uk/mecwww/research/csi.htm.

http://www.utamagazine.uta.edu/fall_200 ... eries.html.

Lubricant Additive Interactions, Surface Reactions and the Link to Tribological Performance in Engines. J.H. Green, A. Morina, M. Priest, A. Neville. Institute of Tribology, School of Mechanical Engineering, The University of Leeds, Leeds.

Bussy, Lee C. Oil and the Harley-Davidson. http://www.xlrator.com.

All About Motor Oil. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils.html

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/show ... d=&t=90881

Motorcycling- The Honda V4 Files and More. http://www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/oil_opinion.html

A.T.I.S. FAQ on Motor Oils. http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html

Interpretation of experiments on ZDDP anti-wear films through pressure-induced cross-linking. N.J. Mosey. Tribology Letters 0 (2005).

Myths and Legends 1. Zinc, Diesel Oils and API. Pennrite. Technical Bulletin No 85 May 2005.

Amrep. http://www.amrep.com/misty/lubrica2.htm

Any information you may receive related to this web site is provided merely as friendly suggestions, not as expert opinion, testimony or advice. Neither LN Enginering nor Charles Navarro endorses or sponsors any information, products or methodologies you may find herein.

The test results contained herein come with no guarantee, even for a product with the same name, date code, API code, or lot number - there can and will be variations depending on the sample and who is doing the testing. Only the individual companies can assure that, and only they can report their specs.

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YukonCor55 · Post by **YukonCor55** » May 26, 2007, 5:15 pm

I use the Redline Oils exclusively in all applications (Engine, Primary, Tranny) on my Indian Chief. As for the old Fords, my 55 Fairlane has it's original but once rebuilt 272 and my 62 Slick has the original, un-rebuilt 292 engine. As such, I'm staying away from synthetics in those two old Y Blocks. I've had good luck with 4 qts of Valvoline Hi-Mileage 10W40 with 1 Qt of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I also add 4 oz of Marvel Oil to my Gas tank for every 10 gallons of gas. I can't offer any hard core evidence that it works but the engines are still running and it makes me feel good!

cdherman · Post by **cdherman** » June 1, 2007, 8:52 pm

It is noteworthy that the high mileage oils are NOT energy conserving and as such, can have some different additive packs. Mostly, they are marketing, but in general, they are probably better for our old engines than a SM with GF-4 rating.

I would still recomend a DEO. Too bad some of the best DEO oils are not avail as a 10w30. The 5w40 synthetic DEO are quite good, but they might leak more in a old engine. The 5w40 DEOs are what I will run in my 65 once I have the seals replaced.