Slick 60's

Ive never done this and need to. Whats all involved in replacing the king pins. There is a lot of play at each hub and want to rebuild the front end. Do I need any special tools etc.

You can buy a replacement set for about $80.00 at most parts stores. The hard part is getting the old ones out. I remove the I-Beam and carry it to a machine shop with a press. After the old pins and bushings are out press in the new ones and ream to fit. Special tools Pickel fork (tierods), 20 ton press (old pins), reamer (to size the bushings), half inch drive socket set with an 18 inch braker bar, Jack stands and lastly lots of patience. I also recommend you replace the I Beam pivot bushings (press will help) and the radius arm bushings. You will also need new tie rod end grease seals since you will ruin the old ones with the pickel fork. I suggest you get someone to help that has done this work before. It is not complicated but can be pure hell if you don't have the proper tools and experience.

As stated this can be a problem to do. However, Not impossible, but you need some special tools and an understanding of what is involved. First you need a kingpin tool, which are not uncommon on Evilbay. This is a combination of reamer and driver for the bushings. Second, you may need a hot wrench with which to heat the axle. There are some who would not advise not doing this. Without a press it may be difficult getting the king pins out. You will need a large hammer and a good drift (reamer driver) to drive those out anyway. Hopefully someone has not already replaced the king pins at one time and gotten carried away while tightening the lock pins that hold the king pin in place. To anyone replacing king pins, do not overtighten those lock pins as itmakes it very difficult to remove the kingpins as you can distort the axle. I don't know what the torque setting is for these but you can create a headache for the next person that replaces the king pins, which may be you. The reamers are usualy selling in the 10 to 30 dollar range. A good investment.

Rich

I got them out just with a big hammer and a big bolt a little smaller than the pin itself, no press needed.

Dumb question who can you tell if the king pins need to be replace?

cwindsor wrote:Dumb question who can you tell if the king pins need to be replace?

cwindsor wrote:Dumb question who can you tell if the king pins need to be replace?

before they look like this



if they have any slop in them at all meaning with the front tires off the ground and the wheel bearings correctly tightened if you can see/feel any movement between the spindle and axle
they should be replaced. hboth sides should always be done at the same time.

One more thing. After the pins are in they need to be lubed. To lube king pins jack up the truck so that the weight is off the wheels. Then lube the pins. Few take the time do this and not raising the wheels will lead to early wearout.

William-in-St George wrote:One more thing. After the pins are in they need to be lubed. To lube king pins jack up the truck so that the weight is off the wheels. Then lube the pins. Few take the time do this and not raising the wheels will lead to early wearout.

I'll also add to ^^^ to say, depending on the amount of driving and conditions (wet versus dry) will determine how often you should grease them. I usually clean off the end of the grease zerks and give each side three pumps of grease at every oil change (~3K miles). If I drive it for an hour to two in a rain storm or through standing water, I'll try to grease each side again. Grease is cheap - changing out the K-pins is much more time consuming and costly!

BarnieTrk

P.S.
Most folks that I've heard from will also tell you to only use the kits that have the bronze bushings, rather than the nylon. However, I have heard of a few folks having good luck with the nylon bushings. I went with nylon the first time (~1981?) and they didn't work out - however, I probably didn't install them correctly. Just a few months later, I had a shop install and ream the bronze bushings to fit and they are still going strong - which I also attribute to my frequent grease jobs.

I was told that I should have the truck off the jack or lift when greasing the lower king pin zerk as this was the only way the bearing got grease in it. Don't know if this is right or not just what I was told. Tom

tomrooster wrote:I was told that I should have the truck off the jack or lift when greasing the lower king pin zerk as this was the only way the bearing got grease in it. Don't know if this is right or not just what I was told. Tom

William-in-St George wrote:One more thing. After the pins are in they need to be lubed. To lube king pins jack up the truck so that the weight is off the wheels. Then lube the pins. Few take the time do this and not raising the wheels will lead to early wearout.

The kingpins will take grease MUCH better if you first jack up the front end, taking the weight off the wheels. I will usually jack up the front end by centering my floor jack with a 4" X 4" X 10" long block of wood under the twin I-beams and lifting both front wheels at the same time; yep, it's a 3-ton floor jack, so it will lift the front of my Slick without any struggle. Three pumps in the top, three pumps in the bottom, two pumps in each tie-rod end, two pumps at the idler arm and steering link, and a pump or two into each of the driveshaft U-joints. While it's up, I also will spin each front wheel to ensure the front drum brake shoes are adjusted adequately and a pull at the top/bottom of each wheel to check that the wheel bearings are snug......

BarnieTrk

Ok so the bushings are actually in the spindles right? And the pin may or may not need to be pressed out. If the bushings are in the spindles, I should be able to leave the axle in the truck and not remove it right? Lastly, I need to ream the axle before the new pin goes in? Sorry for all the questions. Ive never done this and dont know anyone who has ever done it. I haven't even been able to find a shop that will do it.

the bushings are in the spindles but the pin will possibly be (very) tight in the axle

here is a blow up of the twin i beam axle.
kingpins on straight axles are similar

bushings are #3110

Ok that makes more sense now that I can see it ! Thanks.