Newbie and Battery Question

[Conquistahore]

Hey Gang,

I'm new to Slick ownership and new to the Forum. I purchased a show condition '66 Ford F100 Styleside Ranger last month and have encountered my first issue. While cold starting on Saturday (in 40 degree weather) the engine cut off after a choppy 2 minute run...and then I flooded the carb trying to restart. It usually starts up and runs fine for me. I couldn't get it restarted and thought it might be out of fuel. I topped the tank and tried again on Sunday (with a jump assist) and still no go. It clicks but doesn't crank. I did notice that one of the battery cells spilled over acid onto the ground. The lights and radio work but the engine doesn't turn. I'm guessing I need a new battery? Any ideas? What's the best battery for a '67 352 V8? Thanks in advance!

Cheers,

[Conquistahore]

http://retropopplanet.com/2012/01/16/19 ... styleside/

And here's the truck: Big Billy

[Toyz]

It's not unusual to be unable to start with questionable jumper cables. Have the battery charged and tested, then check and clean your connections. Be cautious around the battery for several reasons. If you have "emergency" clamp-on ends, get rid of them. Quality cables are cheap. It's kinda unusual for a newer style maintenance-free battery to spill acid without damage. Have you tried to turn the engine by hand to eliminate the possibility of liquid in the cylinders, or an engaged starter?
Like anything else, "best" battery is subjective. Years of experience has led me to Walmart, I hate to admit, for fairly good quality batteries with an excellent guarantee and availability. I personally run Optima's in the majority of my equipment, but have had problems with several, probably related to setting and in-correct charging. I prefer Oddysey, but buy Optima's because of readily available supplier discounts. You probably will not find a direct replacement for 24/27 series batteries in the AGM's, but there are several that physically fit, with the bonus of higher CCA's.
BTW, that is REALLY a nice Slick!
Paul

[Toyz]

I like the description on the "twin I-beam" If you happen to have an original style battery (removable caps) in that Ranger, there are replacements available.
You can also obtain a fake cover for modern batteries, although for the price, if you need a battery anyway, and don't particularly require increased capacity, the OEM replica is the way to go, IMO.
Paul

[Alfs64]

Sorry I can't help with the battery issue but welcome to the Forum! Thats a very nice Slick you have there

[Gritsngumbo]

Beautiful truck! from Louisiana and a fellow Ranger owner. Where are you located? If you haven't already done so, I would suggest you register your Ranger at the Ranger Registry: http://www.michellesfords.com/RangerRegistry.html . Michelle is a Ranger owner and a Slick 60's member.

[Conquistahore]

Thanks everyone! My roomie is an electrical enginerd and we were talking about it last night. After your comments and his comments I've agreed to replace the battery. The truck was a frame-off resto in 2003, and it was actually converted to a Ranger by the last owner after he purchased an original sales guide. I need some photos of the interior, but it has twin seats from a Mustang and the center console from what I believe was either a T-bird or a Galaxy. Some say the interior looks better than the exterior.

The previous owner was really into keeping things original, but I'd like to add a bit of flare. Upgrading to Rally wheels, for example, and maybe adding disc brakes and power steering (way down the line). I live in Washington, DC area and the traffic can be pretty dicey.

[Conquistahore]

I love the longbed because I can eventually carry my Royal Enfield motorcycle.

[Gatkpartz6179]

NOT A RANGER!!!CLONE...Carry a motorcycle?.. nice truck for sure.DC? get Hagerty appraised value insurance on it!!! Battery and alt can be tested many places for free and the choke was on too long ,hence the choppy idle, as soon as it fires set choke back to half.if carb has been rebuilt and is 2 bbl floalt leve, jets and power valve need checked especially if it has backfired. Need more info..don't guess and throw money at stuff,newbie[no offense] and askin on here all the time, means youlearn nothing hands on.. batteries/ ignition/charging are simple on these trucks.. whatcha goon do when you have to change points?tell him ya'll

[Uncle Skip]

First, from your description, I'm pretty sure the battery is cooked.
Pull it out carefully and don't get acid on your paint.
Next, take some baking soda and water and clean the area on, in and under the battery where acid has spilled. Use lots of soda and water and keep everything off the paint.
Take the battery to your local parts store and confirm the battery is bad, and replace it as necessary.
Last.
The battery cooked for a reason. Probably a stuck voltage regulator that is over charging the battery.
As soon as you get the new battery in the truck, take it back to the parts store and have them check the charging system.
I'm betting you're going to need a new regulator.
BTW, that is a beautiful truck, and welcome to our family.
Uncle Skip

[Gritsngumbo]

If you haven't already done so, I would suggest you register your Ranger at the Ranger Registry: http://www.michellesfords.com/RangerRegistry.html .

it was actually converted to a Ranger by the last owner after he purchased an original sales guide.

Never mind!

[ICEMAN6166]

welcome

look for the simple solutions first before draining your wallet unnecessarily

a new battery is always a good idea when you get a new truck. new cables too.

[Toyz]

Pete's on the right track! Lots of parts get replaced and "solve" the problem, which many times would have been solved by simple diagnostics and cleaning.
A battery that adequately starts a cold truck, then doesn't seem to be able to restart it again throws a flag.
Usually this is an indication of poor connection(s), but the described engine conditions concern me. If the engine was loading up as you indicated, there is a possibliity of liquid fuel in a cylinder, as I mentioned.
This also could cause the spillage, due to a severe overload on the battery trying to turn a locked engine.
I am not a big advocate of trusting an auto parts counterperson to diagnose anything. It goes back to the "that's how I do it" theory, which may not fit the individual situation. If your roomie is willing to help, his full diagnosis of voltage conditions at various terminals can tell you what's really happening. A cheap multi-meter will go a long way in eliminating the majority of possibilities. Start at the battery, check voltage there, then move down the cable to the solenoid. If the voltage at the BAT side of the terminal (not the cable) is close to that at the battery, engage the starter via the switch while he measures voltage at the same point. If there is not a significant drop in voltage, you still have a connection problem downstream from the solenoid's battery cable end. If the voltage does drop significantly, go back to the battery and recheck it. If it is considerably lowered, it needs to be recharged and tested.
If the test at the positive terminal indicates a significant drop, but no attempt to start, then that would normally indicate a starter or engine problem, if you eliminate any shorts, which are usually quite noticable.
That's enough for a start; don't hesitate to inquire further. Just don't ignore the basics: Check for engine rotation, and start with a fully charged battery (not jumpers).
BTW, Welcome!
Paul

[huckdeuceman]

Welcome'' from FL'', looks like your covered on opinion's so just wanted to say NICE SLICK!!

[Conquistahore]

Ok, work's been crazy and I've finally gotten back around to the truck. So I removed the old battery (dead) and picked up a new one at AutoZone (700cca). Annndd...I have the same problem. Lights and all work, and then when I turn the key it just clicks and doesn't turn over. According to the original shop manual road map it could be an issue with the starter. It recommends that I by-pass the relay with a heavy jumper cable, but the diagram is hard to read and I can't figure what to do. I suppose if engine starts using this method then the starter is bad? Further recommendations/diagrams/videos/etc. would be appreciated. Thanks.

[ICEMAN6166]

so you went and bought a new battery but did you check and clean all the terminal ends/cable ends/grounds and other connections?
after doing that and making sure everything is in order only then can you proceed in the diagnosis

recent post you should read
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=24794

[supersmitty]

Check the positive wire feed at the starter. Mine did the same thing one time and I found that the bolt to the starter terminal had loosened up and wasn't making good enough contact. I tighten the nut and have had no problems since. Hope this helps.

[Conquistahore]

I just conducted a test by connecting jump wires from the battery to starter connectors on the solenoid and received a rapid battery of clicks when engaging the ignition, but it still won't crank. The cable leading from the solenoid to the starter was warm so there must be a solid current...I'm puzzled and am wondering if there is an issue with the starter and not the solenoid. My guess is that I damaged it somehow while attempting to restart last weekend after it initially cut off.

[Uncle Skip]

Sounds to me like the starter is dragging. But before you replace it, use a jumper cable and "carefully" hook the starter directly to the battery and see if it clicks. If so, the starter is bad. If it (the starter motor) spins, the solenoid is toast.

[Toyz]

I don't see any indication that you have ascertained that the motor or starter are not "locked". The cable getting "warm" without any attempt to turn the starter is worthy of further investigation, OR you can continue replacing parts until something works!
I hate to be negative (even at low voltage), but your original symptoms are a strong indication the motor died from excess fuel, and if liquid fuel is trapped in a cylinder, it probably ain't gonna want to turn over. I hope I am wrong, but it's a simple test, and could save you time and money.
The results mentioned already tell me the problem is not rooted in a solenoid failure; although usage beyond design is certainly not insuring it's longevity!
Paul