Slick 60's

Went out to drive Ruby to school this morning and there is no electrical power at all. The battery is good, I checked the 5 fuses under the dash with a test light and they all look good.

Is there a master fuse or another fuse that is not in the fuse box?

I removed the after market amp gauge and replaced the alt belt last weekend, but I had the battery disconected and I dont think I grounded anything. The 2 wies on the amp gauge ran from the gauge to the solinoid, I didnt do anything else.

What could be amiss?

Need more information. What do you mean there is no electrical power at all? When you turned the key what happened? Click, slow crank, dash lights, nothing at all? Did you reconnect the battery? How do you know the battery is good?

I put a meter on the battery, 13.5V.

I tested all the fuses with a 9V battery and a test light, all are good.

There is no power at all to the cab. The headlights do not work. When the key is on, nothing works, it doesnt crank. It acts like there isnt a battery in the truck at all. Everything is dead.

Are the 5 fuese in the fuse box the only ones in the truck?

Are there any circut breakers or other fuses?

Something is preventing power from getting to the cab.

Have you cleaned and tightened both battery terminals ,and checked voltage at starter, if so start tracing the power with the meter and see where it stops.Battery should be @ 12.volt

Danny

ground strap to cab ?

I have double checked everything that I can think of.

I havent worked on old vehicles in over 25 years and my memory is a bit foggy.

So Im brainstorming some possibilities here.

Everything worked fine until I changed the alt belt and removed the after market amp/oil gauges that didnt work anyway.

I disconected the battery before removing the gauges because they were hooked up to the starter relay.

If I grounded the battery/starter relay/alt/volt regulator would that kill power to the truck?

Could the Alt have an open ground?

Could the starter relay or volt regulator have gone bad?

Since I have a charged battery and the cables are good, it seems that either I have a ground problem or a component has gone bad.

CONNECT THE 2 WIRES THAT YOU TOOK OFF YOUR AMP METER TOGETHER, THAT SHOULD RESTORE YOUR POWER.

The two wires are in the trash. They were as big as Battery cables and only ran from the aftermarket amp gauge to the starter relay and the junction block on the fender.

Do I need a jumper from the junction block to the relay?

That would be where I would start if they were basically connected before through the guage it would make sense they still need to be connected .


Rick

My starter relay has the two wires on the I and S terminals, one wire to the starter and one wire to the battery.

The wires from the alt and voltage regulator, and the wire from the cab harness go to the junction block. Is that correct?

Heres how they were with the gauge hooked up.

Your amp gauge completed the circuit, B+ thru gauge to block near solenoid, run a jumper from B+ to the block [tie 2 yellow wires together] and wala...

The two yellow wires were only connected to the gauge. Those wires and the gauge are gone.

So do I need to connect the junction block to the starter relay?

Or, can I move the wires from the junction block to the starter relay, it seems that would accomplish the same thing.

I looked under the dash, all seems well, or as well as it can be, I didnt see anything disconnected.

Fixed. Thank you for the help everyone. Gotta run and meet the misses for a work thingy she has going on 2nite. Details later.

Thanks again.

Hurry, we're dying from the suspense. Did someone route the main power through the amp guage?

DCarr wrote:Hurry, we're dying from the suspense. Did someone route the main power through the amp guage?

Yes they did.

bmcgc wrote:

DCarr wrote:Hurry, we're dying from the suspense. Did someone route the main power through the amp guage?

Yes they did.

That is the way an ammeter for Slicks is installed.
All power, except the starter supply is routed through the ammeter.