Slick 60's

I bought this EZ wire harness. Would anyone have a photo of where you put your fuse box? I'm not really sure where to start with it.
Jeff Oh, I have a 1963 Ford F-100 Step side.

Think you posted in the wrong section. This is "Jokes and Funnies". Just sayin'
Might want to try "Truck Talk".

I moved this one here

My answer would be: wherever it works for you!

Personal opinion, but sit down with an adult beverage and contemplate what all you're going to do to your truck.
Space under the dash is limited and if you're putting in something like Vintage Air, anticipate not only the location of evaporator, but the vent hoses, heater hoses, and a/c hoses that have to go under there too, and you need to put it somewhere you can see it without to much problem.
Another thing, leave lots of slack when you run your wires. You can always shorten them or tie them in a loop, but as far as I know, wire stretchers and flight line haven't been available since WWII.
I'm thinking about taking out the glove box and mounting an aluminum floor in it and mounting my fuse panel there.

Thanks for the advise...... Sorry, looks like I did post it in the wrong section, But you never know.......it may belong here in the funny joke section when I'm done!

Nah.
You'll be another success story.
We all have faith in you.
When you go out for your moments of zen with your truck and the adult beverage, be sure to take notes so you don't forget anything.
I'm not kidding or making fun. This is how you noodle out your puzzles. Trust your crazy old Uncle Skipper on this one.
AND TAKE PICTURES

hey I'm interested in knowing how this works out for you.. my father in law has a 223 in a 61 f100... we are going to rewire it.. but were uncertain of the ezwiring kit .. we were leaning toward the american auto wire kit for the 61-66 .. its a nice kit but its 500 something bucks. we are mainly nervous/ use the term loosely more like just dont want to waste time rigging it up to work.. about the charging system, switches and dash.

I sure will let you know how it works out. The only thing I wish I could find is the small rubber plugs that go into the fire wall, and runs to engine compartment.

But I will take many pictures and post them when I'm done!

Thanks

Jeff

http://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/

Look through their site , they have firewall conn. Might be a diffrent design, but will make a clean conn. (pun intended) LOL

Danny

Jeff, Same harness I used. I mounted the fuse block facing down using a L bracket under the dash just left of the steering column. I also used the existing factory large round rubber grommet to feed the wires thru the firewall, looks nice. I was able to pin out all the origonal switches easily for re-use, I used an aftermarket gauge kit though.
Russ

Used the keep it cleen kit off ebay for about 60 bucks. Used a step bit to get through the firewall. Welded plugs for the original Ford bulkhead connectors. Ran an 8 gage 19 strand from the starter relay to a 5/16th power post (ebay) to power the constant hot side of the fuse block, the ignition switch and the lights. Used a relay to turn on the accessories switched side of the fuse block (trying to give the ignition switch a break). Mounted the power post and the fuse block on the left cowel just above the vent. Keep it cleen has a cover with spare fuses and this location is accessable but totally out of the way. Column is a 78 Ford tilt shortened 2 inches with an 14 inch aftermarket wheel. So far everything is working as planned. Headlights and front TS/Park lightsand horn are on the schedule for tomorrow.

I got the EZ Wire 21 circuit kit for my truck and I am currently sorting out the ignition , light switch and gauges .

not a good pic but here is where I placed mine... drivers side over kick panel vent...

This really helps guys Thanks......... Did I understand that you ran the wires to the original plugs and used the original plugs thru the fire wall? and is it best to run the wires directly to each unit or try to splice just before the plug ins?

Wow this site is awesome...... I went back to look up a few things about the wire project I got going on and found just what I needed from an old post. This is what I needed to run through the fire wall to make it clean and simple....... thanks guys here is the link that was sent out from one of our slicksters earlier.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weatherp ... 35b3124052

Put mine where Anthony put his. Don't use bulkhead connectors (firewall plugs), too many connections. Just use a step bit and drill an nice 1 inch hole in the firewall above the area where the existing connector holes are. I welded a plate over the old holes. I used the original light switch connector by removing the old wires and installing the new with 1.4 inch spade connectors. I bought a Delco crimper for this and the results are as original. I use weather pac connectors where ever I needed a new connection outside (like at the tail/TS lights). For the gages, alternator, dash lights I used NAPA snap connectors. These snap connectors will plug onto the Ford male ends you find all over under the dash. I used spade connectors for the ignition switch (3) and dimmer switch (3). If you want a ignition switch plug you can use the one for early mustangs available on e-bay for about 30 bucks or so. My truck is a complete re-wire except for Ford TS and 4 way switch and the Neutral start switch. Brought power into the cab on an 8 gage wire connected to a 5/16th inch power post and then 12 gage wiring to the hot side of the fuse box, light switch, ignition switch and through a 40 amp relay to the switched side of the fuse box. The crimper is the best investment I made for this wiring project. It works on weather pac, spade and ford connectors. I have also been able to double crimp wires when I needed two wires for a similiar purpose (like highbeam feed and high beam indicator) or front TS and TS indicator bulbs in the dash. edit..shaffs 64 save your money you dont need that connector.

Okay, I will try to follow what your saying........ I'm just a little out of my league on this one I think!

This takes time and patience. The results are a reliable safe truck with all the stuff working like it should. We can and will help. Something I learned today. LED bulbs are polarity specific. I bought a bunch of small LED bulbs and was testing them by installing them in a socket and jumping across the battery. Well crap I thought half of them don't work. Then I tried turning the bulb in the socket on the off chance that they were polarity specific...volia lights and nice and bright. Learn stuff everyday.