Mono-Leaf Springs

Gary Seymour · Post by **Gary Seymour** » July 8, 2007, 7:51 am

Classic Performance Products has mono-leaf springs to lower slicks 4-1/2" up front. Seems like an easy way to lower a slick, but doing some quick measurements on the front, it looks like the spring will bottom out on the frame.

Anybody out there use these springs? Does front part of frame have to be c-notched for a 4-1/2" dropped mono-leaf spring? not sure I want to notch he front part of my '62 Unibody SB.

Thanks

Post by **Greg D** » July 8, 2007, 8:54 am

I saw those too, think I will just go with new reverse eye main leafs. Any spring shop should be able to do them I got a quote for $100 each. Also check here, think they can drop your axle and are members here too. http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/ICMenu.swf

ELpolacko · Post by **ELpolacko** » July 8, 2007, 4:25 pm

I'm not completely sold on mono-leaf springs.

I have installed a few and have driven a few and they don't ride bad, just a bit stiffer than claimed. A good shock is a defininte must because of the low arch and travel.

Don't forget while they have a lower arch they are also thiner. About 3/4" thick, so a spring with three inches less arch and half the thickness will lower about 4 inches over stock.

We do offer a drop service for your axle. We can stretch them 3" but you will need to modifiy your steering arms.

Gary Seymour · Post by **Gary Seymour** » July 9, 2007, 5:36 pm

Thanks Greg D and ELpolacko for the great replies. Disc brake conversion is great.

When going with a dropped axle, how do I need to modify the steering arms? Is this cut and weld or heat and bend??

How much narrower will the axle be if it is dropped 3"?

With a dropped axle AND the disc brake conversion, how far in will each wheel be moved?

I am asking a lot of questions, and I appreciate the replies.

I like to know how things should turn out before I actually begin! I DO have all my shackle bolts, etc., LOOSE though, so I am ready to get started!

Thanks guys

ELpolacko · Post by **ELpolacko** » July 10, 2007, 8:43 am

you will need to heat and bend the drag link arm on the spindle down three inches to match the drop. Otherwise you will have bumpsteer. The steering arms I am still working out a clean solution but typicaly they need to be dropped also.

The axle will narrrow up about an inch. We use control arms on our drop fixture to control it but to keep the axle thickness durring the drop process it will have to shrink.

We are dropping a 61-64 axle this week. I will try and get some pictures of it.