Rusty bed question

[Phil]

The surface of my trucks bead is rusty. I was considering POR15 the whole thing but stopping about 2" up the sides so I can do my future bodywork w/o POR being in the way (lots of dings)

Can I roll on Bedliner stuff over the POR?
Can I just use the Bedliner stuff w/o POR15 at all over the rust?

[norville]

HH if your going through the trouble of bedliner , do some sort of rust converter first. I think summit sells something also. I used less than a quart on my bed.

bob

[Greg D]

Angle grinder, cup brush, bottle of "Right Stuff" and a pump spray bottle. Oh, this is at least a 6 pack job..........

[Phil]

Angle grinder, cup brush, bottle of "Right Stuff" and a pump spray bottle. Oh, this is at least a 6 pack job..........

Yup forgot to post that part.
It has to be easier than doing the bottom of my fairlane.


So the Right stuff is a rust converter?
Available where? I use PORs "Metal Ready" usually. Leaves a zinc coating on the rust when done. I had a bare metal car sit for 2 years with no flash rust anywhere after spraying it on

[cdherman]

For the bed, nothing beats a sand blaster.

You can cover it up, but it will keep coming back. But remove the rust once and for all, coat it, and you'll never deal with it again.

Some folks dislike sandblasting because it may ripple body pannels like the hood etc. But the bed is heavier and channeled. You won't hurt it.

If you lack the rig to blast with, then find someone who will. I bet $100 will get it blasted for you and you'll never regret it.

[Johnny Canuck]

Think of Por 15 like a plastic bag. It is an encapsulator, which means it holds whatever is inside it, like a plastic bag would. You use Por metal ready, Jasco, etc etc and it converts the rust to zinc, but the idea with Por 15 is to hold the atmosphere out, i.e. the rust.. You leave the ends open like you would by just painting it up 2" in the box and it's like leaving the ziplock open, the way i see it..

Will a bedliner stick to it? I doubt it. Be like painting a teflon frying pan with latex paint. But you CAN make paint stick to POR, just spray paint it while it is still wet with the type of paint you want to coat it with. As the Por cures (emitting cyanide gas) it attaches to the wet top coat paint, and your future top coat paint will in turn stick to that.

[Greg D]

Right Stuff is a converter, it leaves kind of a tacky residue but you can prime or paint over it with very good results. For outside body work you would of course clean that off. It works very well, I usually just call it "green shit" I picked it up at Advance Auto Parts, $4.99 a quart and works good, plus I don't have to wait a week for it show up. I picked up a pump spray bottle from Lowes (garden section) that had an almost identical bottle, I just put the pump on the green shit bottle.

[six-two]

I'm working on my bed right now and was having problems with flash rust, can't you use some kind of acid to prevent this?
Not trying to jack your thread Heavyhauler, I thought this info might help. I like your truck too, looks like we're trying to go for the same thing.




_________________________________________six-two

[Phil]

Its phosphoric acid I think.

That POR metal ready works fantastic. It leaves a zinc coat and keeps very well. Its like $14 and you can get it at any autobody supply place

I left my Failane bare for over a year with it on

www.porguys.com

[Max]

You can get phosphoric acid at Lowe's and Home Depot type places too! Get a gallon of it and an empty spray bottle.

Skip had a good idea before. He doused in and around his cab and caught the drips in a plastic kiddie pool to reuse later.

Don't worry, he stopped using the kiddy pool about a week before he got that idea.